Siberia 2013 - From Irkutsk to Altai and back

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by bob66, Jul 10, 2013.

  1. lowbudget

    lowbudget _twin brothers on the go_

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    Just as it gets real interesting you stop writing :ear

    Let´s hear the rest of the story - Very nice read btw!
    #81
  2. bob66

    bob66 Been here awhile

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    Just give me one / two days for the next entry :)

    Cristian / Bob
    #82
  3. tvbh40a

    tvbh40a PSUViking

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    Not nice. Waitng:lol3:lol3:lol3:lol3
    #83
  4. Bli55

    Bli55 -

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    bob66, as long as it takes, just make it as good as this one! :deal
    And make it quick! :D

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    Lookes like you are running TKC80 or similar??

    Can you comment on your thoughts about the tyres and which are they?
    #84
  5. ang

    ang Been here awhile

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    This is great, the pictures are stunning and the dialogue tells you all you need to know.
    Waiting for the next instalment.
    #85
  6. cristiano

    cristiano Been here awhile

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    Great report!
    #86
  7. Sandino

    Sandino Been here awhile

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    Great report, amazing pics...hey, what happenned with the chick on the first page?? :norton
    Cheers from Paraguay :freaky
    #87
  8. Pickup man

    Pickup man Been here awhile

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    Great cliffhanger!! Can't wait till the next episode! This has all the ingredients for some of the best of what ADVenture riding is. This is absolutely fantastic.
    #88
  9. f650gsa

    f650gsa de la Mobra la BMW

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    De admirat si remarcat !

    Catalin
    #89
  10. Asianrider

    Asianrider Been here awhile

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    Brilliant ride. Great pictures. And there's nothing like a bike breaking down in the middle of nowhere to spice up a RR, thank you KTM :evil

    :lurk
    #90
  11. bob66

    bob66 Been here awhile

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    Yes, they are TKC80. I think they are ok for the mixed terrain. Of course that in the mud there is nothing OK for the "animal".

    Man, you're right. Soon I found out that "China" Rulz. You will see why, in the next episodes.

    Regards,
    Cristian / Bob
    #91
  12. bob66

    bob66 Been here awhile

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    We arrive at the yurt. Because I don’t see the UAZ and not everybody is home I’m not sure if I came to the right yurt. I’m welcomed by a few kids and a couple of women. Immediately the others appear. I ask them where to put my tent.
    After I put my tent somebody brings me a cup of tea and a few cakes. Belchit Maa and other kids appear at my tent and they begin asking me questions. After a while there appear one of the kids parents (a pregnant young woman) and she tells them to leave me alone. They speak Tuva language. If I understood well, they are Tuva ethnic and they have a house in Kosh Agash where they live in the winter. Here, there are a few families with kids. I think the youngest child is between 2 and 3 years old. When I arrive, he is butt-naked and he has a T-shirt on it.

    I’m curios if this family owns this land. The owner shows me that everything around is his land, including the sheepfold where we slept last night. In wintertime there is somebody at the sheepfold with the animals and the others are down there in Kosh Agash. I cannot imagine how is to live here alone in the winter. You have no GSM. It is very cold, etc.

    I put my folding chair in the sun and I relax. It is nice outside and very quiet. I feel very good. The truth is that I wanted, since the beginning of this trip half a day of rest and relaxation. I cannot say that I’m happy with my broken bike, especially if I think about all the financial consequences, but there are some positive aspects, too.

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    The clouds appear and disappear.

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    Belchit Maa comes to me with another little girl and she asks me to take some pictures with her on my bike. Of course I take the pictures but I tell her that the printer is at my friends in Kosh Agash.

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    Near the yurt there is a lake. The next day is Saturday and it is a holiday. I don’t know if it is holiday related, but most of them go to the lake to wash themselves. The water is pretty cold, but maybe if you are born here you think it’s good.

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    While I spend time with the family in Tuva, my friends go to Kosh Agash. They have over 120 km to ride of which around 80 km offroad. Some parts are harder.

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    Climbing to Buguzun Pass

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    Buguzun Pass is on the border between the Altai and Tuva Republics.

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    The guys arrive at dusk in Kosh Agash and they go to Zarea gostinitsa (where we stayed in 2010).


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    Now, let’s go back to Tuva


    I feel like on National Geographic: today I will see how a yurt is raised and I’m very glad. This fades away the unhappiness caused by my bike.

    For the beginning everybody moves away the stuff needed for building the yurt. At a few hundred meters there is another lake where the yurt will be raised. I ask them if I can help. They show me the stuff to be carried.

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    After we move everything I go back to my tent. The owner comes to me and invites me to see how they build and to take pictures.

    They establish the location of the door - with a view to the lake and mountains.

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    Then, they install the “walls” and they tie them with rope.

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    After they finish with the walls, a hard rain begins. The little boy is still playing in the rain as nothing happened until his mother sends him inside. He slowly goes away. His sister appears and takes him up to the yurt.

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    I go quickly to my tent and I stay inside with my door open.

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    The rain does not last for long. As we already know, we are treated with a beautiful rainbow.


    The first yurt

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    The second yurt

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    The third yurt

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    When the rain stops we go back to the yurt construction. After installing the “wall” they have to put the roof. This is a little complicated to do. Somebody has to keep up the dome and the others have to put the sticks for sustaining the dome. Because I’m the tallest, they look at me with a smile on their face. They show me the stove inside the yurt. I should climb the stove and keep the dome up while they fix it. I go there very enthusiast, but after I take the dome in my hands, my smile goes away. I don’t know how many kilos it has, but I can keep it around 30 sec with my hands up into the air. They begin to laugh at me. One of them comes to me; he takes the dome and climbs the stove. I can see on his face that it’s very hard, but he is standing still. I’m beside him on the ground and with my hands up we are at the same level. After they fix the dome we go away and begin to fix the rest of the sticks. I fix 2 or 3 sticks and after that they show me the photo camera. In other words “you embarrass us, better you go and take pictures”.

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    The kids are very joyous and they pose for me. I think they hope for a few prints which I would gladly give them, but unfortunately the printer is at Bogdan.

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    The last step: the isolation of the yurt

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    In the evening they call me inside for dinner. Is not hard to guess what they cooked: sheep soup. I know that this doesn’t sound very well, but I tell you that it is very good. They also have home made bread, very tasty. They don’t have a problem to belch while they are eating. After the soup we have some milk tea. I thank them and I retreat.

    After the lunch they use the big truck to put some music and they make a campfire. Everybody is there near the fire and they laugh and make jokes. While with them I didn’t see any alcohol drink. They all look nice and well behaved, although more held-back, unlike those in Mongolia which are more welcoming towards guests.

    I go to my tent anxious to check the satellite phone. It’s good to have it with us because there is no gsm here. I wait for news from my friends regarding my rescue. I receive a sms from Bogdan: the good news is that they found a car, the bad news is the price. I tell them the price is too high. They already have negotiated the price, so that’s nothing to do than to accept. They were going to leave the next day at 6 in the morning and arrive here at 10. The mountain rescue costs me 20000 rubles (~350 eur).

    I go inside my sleeping bag happy and sad at the same time. This was the greatest day up till now. I had the occasion to get a glimpse of local people’s life. So today, despite a broken clutch, some good things happened.




    Day 14, Saturday, 27 July 2013

    The sun appears from behind the mountains and begins heating my tent. I wake up because of the heat and I open the tent door to get some fresh cold air so that I can stay longer in my sleeping bag.

    Outside is very pleasant. It’s absolutely quiet. The wind is blowing lightly. The sun is up on the sky.
    I don't know if the girls are putting on make-up because today is a holiday, or simply because it's Saturday. My host tells me that 30 horses are going to arrive today from Kyzyl Khaya.

    In two hours my friends will arrive, so I take the last walk here in Tuva

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    Somewhere close I found this “monument”… I don’t know what it is.

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    Around 11:30 Bogdan and Andrei make their apparition with a man from Kosh Agash. They came here with a 4x4 van. The Tuva Republic is separated from the Altai Republic by Buguzun pass and there is one hour clock difference.

    Before loading my bike into the van we go to the lake to see the “wonder”. We have read here on advrider many things about this lake. From here we have only 6 km. Bogdan and Andrei were well-inspired to include in the rescue cost the visit to the lake.

    We arrive to Khindiktig-Khol (N50 21.435 E89 49.972). We park the van up on the hill, a few hundred feet from the shore. The landscape is amazing.


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    The driver offers us the lunch. He has bread, sausages and tea. We also have some “Plescoi” sausages from Romania.

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    We go back to the yurts to load my bike into the van. There is nobody left. Earlier, Belchit Maa asked me not to forget about the pictures. I didn’t ask their address in Kosh Agash because I thought that I would find them at our returning from the lake.


    We see many horses coming from Kyzyl Khaya direction

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    For loading the bike into the van I have to take off the windscreen and the front wheel. The way to Kosh Agash lasts over 4 hours and is very bad for a van with a bike inside.

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    While we load the bike, Gigi is riding near Kosh Agash to take a look

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    We take the first break in Buguzun pass.

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    View to Tuva Republic

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    After the mountain pass, we enter the Altai Republic. Goodbye Tuva! One of the wildest places I have seen up till now.

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    And we arrive at Zarea guesthouse.

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    At the Cafe nearby it’s close. We cannot find another so we go to the supermarket to buy some food and beer and then eat at the guesthouse.

    I still have the hope that I will find the clutch for my bike at the KTM dealer in Barnaul… but in fact… I’m dreaming.



    to be continued...

    Cristian / Bob
    #92
  13. live2ridetahoe

    live2ridetahoe RN

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    Amazing update. Thank you. I can't wait to find out how this turns out.

    This is a true "Adventure" ride...

    JG
    #93
  14. bigboyxl

    bigboyxl Been here awhile

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    awesome RR! fantastic story and pictures :clap
    #94
  15. DyrWolf

    DyrWolf Been here awhile

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    The three bike under the double rainbow , front page stuff. Thank you guys for this report.
    #95
  16. RoninMoto

    RoninMoto Wanderer

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    Wow! Your pictures are amazing.

    I only went partway into Tuva this last summer because I didn't have a permit. I camped next to the lake with the river leaving the north side of it. The pass between Tuva and Altai was pretty crazy on my 690. I can't imagine how it would have been in a van! Great RR. It always amazing to see somewhere you have been and try to recognize something. Most of the time it feels like I am seeing it for the first time though.

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sHdHx7LyjEGB4hDI9dXFoTxDD3hCDR4CyvSE_NxC3oQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-aZhtN1cV2EQ/UiGohrBNIlI/AAAAAAAAlPA/qf1YyqBOfo4/s800/DSC00506.JPG" height="532" width="800" /></a>
    Must have been quite bumpy in the UAZ! :D
    #96
  17. tvbh40a

    tvbh40a PSUViking

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    Rainbow is definitely front page stuff!:clap
    #97
  18. Boarder06

    Boarder06 Been here awhile

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    Great to see the ride report continue. I was following you guys on facebook when this was happening.
    #98
  19. gen

    gen Been here awhile

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    This photo is wonderful!
    #99
  20. Bli55

    Bli55 -

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    Totally agree! Lots of front page material... :clap

    PS. Anybody else looking at those raised bars and well-clearance'd fender, be so glad to see them, from a young age in, already setting their bikes up correctly? :D