Sibirsky Extreme 2012 - The Toughest Ride of Them All

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Colebatch, Oct 18, 2012.

  1. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

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    Any 21 inch rim would fit. The main question is one of practicality.

    We could not change wheels as Terry and I were both running KTM spec wheels despite the fact they were on BMWs. The wheels would not have fitted Steve's bike. The only solution was to pull the wheel apart to get a rim.

    We had planned to get in touch with off road bikers in Yakutsk and see if they had any rims they could sell Steve. Then we saw kudu with spare wheels. The simplest solution was to use one of those. Terry and I had to ride our bikes back from Moscow to western Europe in 4 weeks, just 1 week after the bikes were due to arrive. So there would be very little time to effect a solution. Terry and I were not waiting around in Moscow for the bikes - we were going to fly in and ride them out the next day. Also we both had top quality excel rims. There is no stock of those in Moscow to replace our rims with. It would potentially have been very expensive for Steve to arrange for an A60 rim to be imported to Moscow, pay import duty and then get it laced to my hub.

    The solution with kudu was the most logical on every count.
  2. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

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    If you start on the BAM road and plan to end up in Magadan, there is only one road. And everyone passing thru is in touch with Bolot - our man in Yakutsk. When you email him and tell him you will be in town in 3 days time he tells you who else will be around - cyclists, motorcyclists, 4wd expeditioners - Bolot knows all.

    There is only a 6 week season up there anyway - almost everyone to go up there goes betweenm mid july and end august. Probably 20-30 a season and most stay in Yakutsk a few days to prepare for road of bones. So you always have a chance to meet people there.
  3. GiorgioXT

    GiorgioXT Long timer

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    Sorry for arriving late, but I had the feeling to have already seen these places (even if still never been there) ,so I fetched an old family album : some 1942 photos taken by my father when was soldier in WWII are strangely similar.

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  4. DyrWolf

    DyrWolf Been here awhile

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    I have noticed that along this trip a lot of buildings have the trim painted blue. This is not common in the U.S and was wondering if there is any significance to the color. Maybe a welcome?
  5. mario33

    mario33 Howling around...

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    Possibly our Russian friends can give more explanation, but on general note. Blue is generally a colour of human life. And its got much more meaning in Eastern Orthodox icon painting: blue is human, while red is God.

    Lots of buildings showing blue trim in Ukraine, Russsia, rural Greece etc. Everywhere where Orthodox religion remains strong.
  6. DyrWolf

    DyrWolf Been here awhile

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    I love this interactive book!
  7. VFR

    VFR Been here awhile

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    Still following along here. I notice in the pictures that Terry, like me, only wears his glasses when he needs to see something....:lol3

    Fantastic report, Guys!!!
  8. revmaaatin

    revmaaatin Sioux Empire Iron Horse

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    A good read is Mario Puzo's book, "The Sicilian" as it explains a 'lot' about the cultural colors of peoples homes in Sicily...and many don't even know why they choose certain colors. It might not explain the family-colors where the ride takes place, but there is enough carry over that you will get the drift.
  9. stemic01

    stemic01 Steve Royset

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    rdwalker: compared to the old one - how bad could it possibly go haha. There were a couple of moments I felt like this did not go very well, but it actually became quite good. Guess I am putting on a Excel rim on the bike this summer - still not sure if I should try to do it myself again or give it in the hand of a professional :) Guess it might be an idea to get it done!
  10. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

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    While you guys wait for the Norwegians , there was a drive of the Road of Bones in winter in a group of cars (filming for the BBC) in the 2012 winter.

    So if you want to know what its like at a different time of year ... here you go: Escorted by a couple of British stand up comics.

    <iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KMsZTp3NMHM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  11. Ratman

    Ratman Lucky Rider

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    Colebatch, I've been working on Gas pressure shocks for 40 years starting in the '70s while racing buggies in Baja. I use Air instead of Nitrogen. Even though the manufacturers like to use 250psi or so, in most cases 125 to 150 is adequate.

    I have even taken to sharpening the sealing V of rubber seals with a 1/4" hand drill motor and a rotary stone. I do it on Fork seals and the monoshock seal of my street bike.

    I do it because I'm cheap, but more to test my theories. I always imagine that I'll be somewhere where I can't get parts. Irkutsk comes to mind as a good example.

    .....so by using the seals over and air to refill the shocks and diluted, with mineral spirits, 30weight oil, a field service is not too difficult.

    Best to get with Prutser for a practice session first. Think removing the seals with air pressure or hydraulics to keep from hurting the seals.

    And those plastic Seal Mates will fix your leaks 50% of the time.
  12. EtronX

    EtronX Been here awhile

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    It was a strange day when we left Walter and Terry in Yakutsk. Their bikes had been loaded on a lorry and sent to Moscow. They would leave soon after.

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    We bid our farewells in the morning and left.

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    The night before we all had a nice time with a few beers. Walter gave us a lot of tips for the road ahead and Terry was smiling as always.

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    I will now talk a little about Walter and Terry. I will start with Terry :D

    I think Terry is the ideal riding buddy. Alway smiling :D He has a ton of experience and his mood is always top ten. Not a foul word did ever come out of his mouth. "I just love to ride my bike", he often said. Nothing more, nothing less :D I admire him for that.
    If there is a tiny itsy bitsy Vodka around, he is always up for it :1drink And Terry moves the dance floor :rilla
    In short, Terry is just a great guy to be around and I hope I will have the honor of riding with him again.

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    Walter is a walking encyclopedia of the region. Most people with his kind of knowledge usually feel they are a bit above the rest. Not so with Walter. He willingly shares all his information and wisdom to those who asks. With great patience :clap When I contacted him a couple of years ago he was there right away dispensing his advise and thoughts. He really wanted to share his love for the region and to encourage other people to go there. I admire him for that and he is a role model for others to follow :D

    Just like Terry, Walter is always positive. When things broke down or we had a bad hair day, "No problem". Walter is also very creative. Always looking for ways to improve his bike and new areas of the world to explore :evil

    In short, Walter is a great guy and I hope I will have the honor of riding with him again.

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    Again, thank you both, from the bottom of my heart, for being the wonderful human beings you are :clap
  13. kahlgryndiger

    kahlgryndiger Been here awhile

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    It seems to be much easier in winter ... especially the river crossings.
    Except the cold maybe :D

    I would like to do that.
    ObiJohn likes this.
  14. Pate

    Pate Been here awhile

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    No, on your pictures of the house which build in the south, they are covered with clay,
    it most likely Ukraine.
    I suspect it the right coast of Don the South the East of Ukraine
  15. Pate

    Pate Been here awhile

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    Orthodoxy came to Russia from Greece, probably paints came from there too.

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  16. EtronX

    EtronX Been here awhile

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    We rode out of Yakutsk after saying goodbye to the guys. Along the way there were some nice monuments honoring "The Great Patriotic War". Always great photo opportunities :D

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    The stretch today was about 420 km's with two major river crossings. First was the Lena River in Yakutsk. As always a lot of locals came to talk.

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    We made sure to get our sticker up on the barge. If you ever come across one of these, please take a picture with you in it and send it along :D

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    The roads were good, but a bit dusty. We could keep a good pace. I'll take dust any day of the week compared to mud and rain :huh I figure it is Genghis Khan standing here.

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    Not much exciting happened that day with regards to the riding. This was basically a transport stretch for us to do in order to start on the Old Summer Road. We got to the Aldan River where we jumped on a new barge. This trip is upstream and it takes almost two hours, but it is a beautiful voyage :D

    Preparing for departure.

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    Steve is enjoying the scenery :D

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    It was a nice day.

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    We all caught some Zzzz's :bubba

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    Just as we got of the barge I saw a guy on a bicycle. That was Christian, the Swiss guy we had met in Yakutsk, on his way to Magadan. We waved and set course for Khandyga, about 35 click's away. Just as we left the settlement of Keskil there were road works going on. They had filled up the road with loose gravel and it was pretty horrendous to drive there. The bikes were all over the place :eek1 This went on for about 25 km's.

    Finally we got into Khandyga at around 2230. Among Walter's GPS points there is a B&B marked in Khandyga. After a little while we found the place. It was in the middle of a housing estate. We looked around if there was a secure place to park the bikes when this lovely young lady came along in a pimped Land Cruiser. She and her boyfriend had a container outside which they used as a garage for stuff. She opened up and told us to put the bikes inside :clap

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    We got installed in our rooms and then went out for some chow. Stocking up for the next days. Tomorrow the plan for us was to reach Kyubyume. There we would leave the M56 and got to Tomtor. The start of the Old Summer Road :evil
  17. beat

    beat Double Dutchie

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    :lurk nice! :thumb
    especially the wisdom in minute 50 or was it 54
  18. Tony P

    Tony P Doddery Old Fart

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    I could not think of finer words of tribute to these two riders that I also had the privilege of riding with (mainly following) and indeed ever meeting.

    Over the weeks and months they both became more than just riding buddies and friends. They are for life!

    We pick up whenever any of us are around. It is always as if there was no time inbetween.

    I enjoy every opportunity - at present, more often with one than the other (Boris's parts requirement permitting:evil).

    Steve, Geir, Erik and Linda - may we too meet soon. Rod and Bas - here's to the next time. And not forgetting W and Bongo.

    Kindred Spirits. A unique fellowship shared.

    (Now get on with the RR ::lurk )
  19. Phrog

    Phrog Terra Australis

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    Terry, mate your not going to live that name down in a hurry :rofl but lets not forget "tow rope Rod" :D
  20. nii

    nii Johnnie Walker

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    do you really have to quote all the photos??? :confused