silicone for adhering protection to engine case

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by jon_l, Jul 5, 2013.

  1. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,543
    Location:
    Collingwood, Ontario
    When I installed Procycle's case protectors on my DR650, I used the orange, high-temp silicone. Worked well, but the orange was visible and ugly. I read that a thicker silicone layer offers cushioning and therefore better protection, so the stainless steel was bedded in between 1/16 and 1/8" of silicone.

    I am about to install a homemade stainless steel case protector for the shifter on my WR250R. Thank you cjbiker for the dollar store stainless steel spatula idea: http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21130122&postcount=34553

    All silicone is somewhat temperature resistant, and I'm wondering whether plain old silicone sealant would work as well as the high temp variety. Clear or black would look a lot better than orange. If high temp is better I'll use it, but if no difference, I'd rather use something less noticeable.

    I don't have an accurate way to measure the temperature of my engine cover, so I am asking for advice. Does the cover get hot enough that I should use high-temp, or will any old silicone do?
    #1
  2. DrFxr

    DrFxr Dashboard Jesus

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1
    Location:
    RI, the armpit of America
    I used permatex "right stuff", which is black, just because I had a can handy. It's good from a constant -75 to 450f, 500f intermittent, and oil, ATF, etc resistant. I scuffed the insides of the armor as well as my cases with 80 grit before applying. There is a thread on DRRIDERS.com on the subject, and as i recall about every color of permatex has been used successfully. Keep a lint free shop towel and some lacquer thinner handy, you can use it to wipe off any oozing and smooth out the the bead around the edge.
    #2
  3. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    6,005
    Location:
    Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
    the Ultra gray (not Honda) is designed for vibration resistance, it cures to a harder finish
    #3
  4. redprimo

    redprimo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    571
    Location:
    central coast of California
    Plain old clear silicone caulk is good up to 300 degrees. If that's not good enough those case protectors won't be any help either.
    #4
  5. Racer111v

    Racer111v Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2011
    Oddometer:
    934
    Location:
    Hudson, NH
    #5
  6. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,543
    Location:
    Collingwood, Ontario
    [​IMG]

    Got the case protector on my WR250R. When I bent my shifter on the trail recently, I bent it back enough to get me out of the woods, but it scored the alloy case while shifting. Per cjbiker's post in the WR250R/X thread, I bought a $1 stainless steel spatula at the dollar store, made a cardboard template, cut it out with a jig saw, then cleaned up the edges with a bench sander.

    Cleaned everything with isopropyl, and used a bed of red high temp Permatex silicone to adhere it. I already had an open tube, and being cheap, just used it.
    #6
  7. Kommando

    Kommando Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,403
    Location:
    Spacecoaster FL
    You can use rubber washers as spacers to get a uniform thickness of adhesive. With a liquid-cooled or oil-cooled engine, I'd assume that 300F is about as hot as you have to worry about.
    #7