SKMo Joe

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Flyred, May 23, 2010.

  1. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    Travels with Jumbo. Part 5

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    Once again headed North. This time for the Dempster Road to Inuvik, NWT. I knew it would be questionable if I could complete the trip due to getting across the rivers via the seasonal ferries.
    Unfortunalty, that was the case. So the end of the trail was at the Peel River Crossing, looking at the ferry on the other side of the river, now in the water and being prepped for the summer but not yet running.
    The trip was still a blast and I have to admit,IMHO, The Dempster is a better ride than the Dalton for a lot of reasons.
    So with the introduction complete, here is my ride report.

    Day 1 camp at Whisker Point CG Lake McCleod, BC 660 miles

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    Beavers 1 Trees 0
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    The Beavers are kicking this camps butt. Trees are down all along the shoreline.
    An Irish Whiskey and a cigar finish the day:freaky
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    #1
    pplassm likes this.
  2. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    Fort Nelson BC
    Another beautiful day with a stop in Dawson Creek for the mandatory pictures at Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway

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    The ride starts for real after Fort Nelson. Before this point it's all pretty Ho Hum. But after that the scenery really starts.
    The West End Campground is located on the ...uh... West End of town at Fort Nelson. The cool thing about this place is it has all the KOA type stuff plus a good restuarant and a bar.
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    The tent area is currently being used as a dumping ground for a remodel project so it's a bit of a mess. But did I mention they have a bar?
    #2
  3. BitesTheDust

    BitesTheDust Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    197
    Location:
    Mission, BC
    :lurk
    #3
  4. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    636 miles
    Ahhhh. Nothing like a hot soak after a long day.
    Crossing the Northern Canadian Rockies. One 10 mile stretch took me 3 hours because of all the photo stops.
    Lots of game along the road. 10+ bears. 10+ Bison. Cariboo.
    After watching all the bears, I figured I should stop and get a pic of at least one. This one was chilling 50' off the road so I stopped the bike. My stopping got the bear shambling off but every 4th step he would fall on his face. The pic doesn't show it well but the bears right front leg is broken and sticking out at a 90 degree angle from where it should be.


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    Poor bastard is toast.

    Here's a healthy and lazy Bear
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    On a happier note.
    The Pink Mtns
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    Breakfast at The Toad

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    Back into the Rockies with a full stomach and gas tank

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    Muncho Lake Prov Park. My oh my!

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    The fuel stops were frequently very scenic

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    You need to carry fuel up here. I didn't know they made Peg Packers for cruisers.
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    A fuel and food stop in Whitehorse. Some really good Pizza at Boccelli's next to the Head Shop and the Soup Kitchen. Hand tossed thin crust. Good stuff!

    Then there's this boat parked in town. Don't know why

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    30 km out of town is the hot springs. A tent space with use of the pool is $27. Perfect way to finish off the day

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    Takhini is a natural choice for a camp along the road to Dawson City.

    There is an old Road House along the Hwy that is falling apart and looks a thousand years old. It stopped working commercially in 1957. The Yukon is tough on structures
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    DC is a comfortable days ride from here with a couple side trips thrown in. Like to Mayo, AK

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    Mayo's cemetary. Seems like they all died in 1923
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    Nothing to see here folks. Move along.

    If you ride this route you will see this.

    http://cheezburger.com/flyred/lolz/View/3572796928
    #4
  5. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    Camp at the Yukon River Hostel.

    The Yukon River Gold dredging takes away all the soil, leaving glacial till behind. There are housing developments built on this stuff

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    KTM. Not what you think. It's the Klondike Thawing Machine Co.

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    Perma frost FAIL

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    The Downtown Hotel. It's where you get the Sour Toe Cocktails

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    The Tasty Byte. Internet Cafe and home of killer homemade donuts. Say hi to Ron.

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    And then there's this boat in town. Don't know why

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    Hard working miner in Dawson City

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    #5
  6. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    350 miles of gravel

    The US Canada border. Pop 2
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    The road to Eagle is in very good condition, much better then the Top of the World road. Eagle itself was hit by a flood May 2009 and the front street was washed away. The grocery / gas station is 100+ yards up the hill and it had water up to the door knob.
    All due to an ice dam on the Yukon River during break up.
    The town didn't have anything worth taking a picture of. Gas and go

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    The liquer store on the road to Eagle-Closed

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    The Top of the World

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    FYYFF

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    Chicken for a great burger

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    Back into Dawson City after a long great day. A stop at the Downtown Hotel for a Sour Toe Cocktail. If you haven't had one, it's a shot of Whiskey-Jack Daniels- and a black, pickled human toe. You have to give the toe back.

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    #6
  7. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    That shows you how tired I am. I spelled cue wrong. Sheesh
    Da da daaahhh.
    267 miles of gravel and a few loose screws

    Before you start up the Dempster you have to stop at the Klondike River Lodge. It's the last place to buy fuel and has a very good cafe and Wi-Fi.

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    The lodge is owned by Gib (Capt Gib) an ADV nOOB that is trying to build a great motorcycle destination. Gib is asking for advice on what we want to make this place the best destination for a rider. My idea was to allow drop shipping of new tires and set up a tire change area.
    Contact Gib at Captaingib@yahoo.com with ideas and requests. His Lodge is Themightyyukon.com
    Here's your chance to create something perfect for us.

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    Capt Gib and Tanisha.
    Gib has ridden this Harley up the Dempster, the Dalton, and the Top of the World all on street tires. He's got bigger balls then me.
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    Mile 0 Here we go
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    The scenery starts getting good about 50 miles in and stays distracting the rest of the ride.

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    The South side of the Tombstones

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    The Dempster Hwy Tombstone Mountains Info center-Closed
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    The Tombstone Mtns

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    The gravel is large and like riding on marbles. Big marbles

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    Tastes like chicken

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    Sapper Mountain

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    Fuel stop at Elephant Rock

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    The climb up the ridge

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    What was to be a quick fuel stop at Eagle Plains turns into a repair stop.


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    Which turns into a night stop. The smell of dinner cooking pulls me in.

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    Nothing around for a few hundred miles

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    All fixed. Note to self: carry a lot more washers. They make bolts shorter when needed.

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    No stopping. Look up

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    #7
  8. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    517 miles of gravel and way too much beer.
    Start this morning from Eagle Plains Hotel. This place is like the Moon Station. It's 200 miles up the road and it's 120 from the next town. It sits on top a ridge with unbelievable views in all directions. They have a good restraunt and bar. Fuel and a huge maintenance shed, then when the roll up doors are open has to be the most scenic place a mechanic can work. They truck in all their water from a stream about 30 miles away. They have their own sewage treatment plant. A room was $140 a night. An excellent burger was $15. Considering everything is trucked in from the other side of the world. It's resonable
    Slow WiFi but so does everybody else.

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    Howling winds out here. 30-40 kts.

    The wind sock along the road at one of the Emergency runways
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    It's so windy out here that the Porta-Potties are tied down.

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    Still blowing 30+ kts cross wind. The road is in pretty good condition...but occasionally the surface becomes deep golf ball sized rocks. When you hit these areas with the cross winds hang on and slow down as smoothly as possible. You will get pushed off the road quickly. Right Eddie?

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    I saw 3 vehicles in 520 miles. 1 was an RV that had a flat tire and was hauling the occupants of car 2 which had 2 flat tires and was disabled. Vehicle 3 in this picture was the tire repair truck. That was it all day.

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    The end of the road. The Peel River ferry is in the water but wont be running for a few more days.


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    Midway Lake, currently a ghost town

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    Lunch and a pot of Starbucks

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    Weather station on Oglivie Ridge

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    Bullet magnet

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    Cariboo skin. I guess they shed their skin like snakes?

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    There are 3 sheep in the picture

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    #8
  9. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    372 miles 100(?) of gravel
    What a sh#t bag place full of strange people.

    Leaving my favorite camp. The Yukon River Hostel. Just across the Yukon from Dawson City. A shared room is $21 and I had it to myself the first night. Since it was raining on the Dempster, I rode to Chicken and back so I stayed a second night. After getting beat down by the Dempster the next couple days I came back because I wanted to sit in the wood fired sauna. I liked this place.
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    Before I left for good how ever I rode down the river bank a couple KM's and checked out the Stern Wheeler Graveyard.

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    There are at least 5 ships on the bank and slowly falling apart.

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    Before

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    After

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    After that, cross the river one last time and head for the Campbell Hwy.

    Pelly Crossing, YT
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    5 Finger Rapids

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    There are convoys of identical RV's headed North. I am so glad I'm headed South

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    Faro. The best kept secret???

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    Faro is near Ghost Town status. The only gas station burned down 3 years ago. You need to gas up in Ross River. The grocery store is boarded up. There are adandoned houses and apartments all over town. The only thing that I didn't see was Zombies walking the streets saying "Braiiiins"

    This is one of the motels. There are people still living in the town still working at the mine. But most of the town looks really bad.
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    Ross River Yukon College. I post this because my son is mad he didn't get into the UW. Instead he's headed to WWU in the fall. Hey son. It could be a lot worse.

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    Camping at the "City Park"
    Kind of creepy and probably nothing but...
    I drive into town looking for an open gas station and instead find a British guy-Trevor- out of Calgary camping in his van. A nice guy, he is doing sales calls all over the West and North trying to sell an invention he's involved with that turns methane or natural gas into 150 octane Gasoline. There is a lot of nat gas up here but few refineries so all gasoline gets trucked in. Every village could set up their own plants.
    www.synfuel.com is his company website. While I set up my tent, several natives cruise by and look us over then leave. Next thing I know, Trevor is driving away. WTF??? Did he get wind of something bad???
    All that night, every few minutes a local would drive down to the river where I was parked, check me out and slowly drive away. Now I understand it was probably a slow news day here but somebody could have stopped to say hi. Nada. So all night I sleep with 1 eye open waiting...

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    The Pelly River pedestrian bridge. This used to carry the CanOl pipeline now is the footpath over the Pelly when the Ferry isn't running. Like now : (

    If it's on the Pelly, why is this town called Ross River?

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    The Pelly Barge. Closed until June 3. So much for riding the North CanOl.
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    So I'm parked by the pumps at the Ross River gas and grub waiting for it to open so I can get the heck out of this town. Sitting on a milk crate by the loading dock enjoying the sunshine and a good cigar after a lousy breakfast. Numerous locals-all natives-walk past and ignore me. Finally after an hour I stop a native and ask when this place opens. "Normally 9, but today is a Holiday so it's closed". These FF were going to let me sit.
    There's a new Card Lock gas tank across the street so over there and refuel and scoot for the CanOl

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    #9
  10. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    Why is there a Road closed sign?
    350 miles or so. 180 on gravel.
    What a fun road. ruts, mud, rocks, cliffs, blind curves with cliffs and rocks and mud. All done at speeds up to 30 mph!
    wOOT!

    The DREADED CANOL ROAD.
    Okay, it was slow going for the first 95 miles to Quiet Lake. Speeds from 10-30 mph was about it, and I like to go fast. The problem was that last year the road had gotten muddy and then rutted. Now the ruts have hardened into Mother Natures equivalent of rail road tracks. With a loaded down bike, the handlebars will get snatched from your hands.

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    WW 2 Era Bailey Bridge made in England

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    The hard ruts and ribs

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    More ruts

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    Still frozen

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    5 of these

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    Another Bailey Bridge

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    Quiet Lake. And it was

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    Springtime on the lake.

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    More damn ruts

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    From Quiet Lake the road improves enough to really get you into trouble. It's smooth so the speed gets to 70mph then OH NO! a sea of big pot holes or ruts. Wheelie through and slow back down only to get suckered again in another mile.

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    And then, only 150 miles later, you're out and back on the AlCan

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    Only 226 KM to Ross River

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    At the Shell station at Johnsons Crossing I met Alex Wong-Rock Star. He's riding a 660 Yamaha from Brazil to Deadhorse. He's been out 61 days and is riding 1000-1300 KM's a day!

    Good luck

    Here's Alex's music and videos

    www.youtube.com/stmrock

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    The Shell also has a bakery and the Apple turnovers were just coming out of the oven. A short coffee break was then required
    #10
  11. HawaiianMaile

    HawaiianMaile The World, my road!

    Joined:
    May 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3
    Location:
    Tacoma, WA
    So, all that and no self portrait? :clap

    :*sip*

    Maybe next time, aye?

    I didn't see that last picture, Me Bad!
    Oh, late addition...
    #11
  12. BitesTheDust

    BitesTheDust Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    197
    Location:
    Mission, BC
    What's the weather been like?

    Thanks for taking the time to write up an RR. This is one trip I plan to do in the near future :D
    #12
  13. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    The weather was and is beautiful. In fact it was damn near perfect. Cool enough for ATGATT and almost-emphasis almost) no mosquitoes. Never below freezing at night. And I just saw the Inuvik was 75F today.
    Got back home to the Seattle area tonight and it was crappy rain again. It's better weather in the Arctic then it is around Seattle
    #13
  14. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    358 miles from Ross River

    After finishing the CanOl my plan was to turn West again and head to Haines. A look at my tires tells me I need to head for home instead. I should have spotted tires up here and changed them both out. Last year I changed the rear only because the front TKC 80 usually will last 9,000 miles. This year they both are looking like crap after only 4,000 miles.

    Over the Continental Divide

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    Another scenic gas station

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    The RCAF Pilots Lodge owned by Mike the German. a great place to stay the night. Mike is a rider as well and is rebuilding a wrecked 650GS with all the TouraTech bits. The Lodge is clean and quiet.

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    The next morning I start late to take advantage of the Lodges Wi-Fi. Then over to the Watson Lake visitors office to give them the promised road condition report of the South CanOl. "But it's closed!" they said. "Well sure it's closed but the road really isn't that bad considering.
    They were not amused.

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    Breakfast at Sally's Cafe. Same place as last year. Food is all homemade and great.
    It's at the junction of the AlCan and the Cassier

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    The problem of the day. I'm out of cash. None of the businesses have an ATM so it's back into Watson Lake and then back to the junction. An extra 24 miles.
    Away I go down the Cassier.
    What a great road. I remember last year thinking how boring and I wonder if that was because the mountains were snow free. This year I am distracted looking at the scenery.

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    Gas station pets

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    No gas

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    Jade City

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    The site of marital stress

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    Gready (sp) Cunt !

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    Bell 2 CG

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    enjoying my Jade City Cigar ash tray

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    Bell 2 is a Heli-Skiing base camp and resort. They have a hot tub and sauna. They have gourmet pizza and sandwiches in the fridge as well. I was convinced after the mention of pizza

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    The road to Hyder

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    The Bear Glacier

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    Welcome to Hyder, AK Population 30

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    The Border

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    Mile 0 again

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    Down at the Yacht Club-Single wide house boats

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    Downtown Stewart BC for breakfast
    The famous Toaster Museum

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    Morning rush hour

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    Back on the Cassier and headed home

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    Coffee break at Bonus Lake

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    Kitwanga BC and the end of the Cassier.

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    What he said?

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    Zip up the Darian Jacket here comes a big storm heading into Smithers. It dumped on me.

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    Last camp at Stone Creek RV- 10 mile South of Prince George, BC. Owned by a Swiss guy, the camp is as clean as a golf course. Even the fire pits are cleaned. The only trouble is you are right by Hwy 97 so it's loud. The good news though is the other camp at Hixon is much worse. Stay here if you are tent camping

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    The view from my tent

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    Another early departure. Long shadows.

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    The road to Whistler BC runs along the Fraser River-same as my last camp spot. Coming into Lillooet is impressive because of the canyon.

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    If you're a Chelsea Handler fan. this will be funny

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    Hard to believe Jumbo is only 2 1/2 years old

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    Finally home. This time to an empty apartment since my wife and I have been separated for a while now.Still no marching bands but at least this time there was cold beer in the fridge.

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    #14
  15. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    12 days 5,642 miles
    Jumbo has 41,329 on her with zero maintenance issue- ok the exhaust heat shield screws fell out-but aside from that no problems except she eats tires.
    I was getting almost 50 MPG the whole ride.
    #15
  16. Throttlemeister

    Throttlemeister Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,184
    Location:
    Okie near Muskogee
    Its a shame the ferries weren't running yet, good times can be had up at Inuvik. At least there wasn't snow on the South Canol Rd., I got caught in early season sep 16 '07 storm on it right out of Quiet Lake and thought I wouldn't make it more than once.

    The paddle wheel graveyard was cool, props for running up Eagle, many don't, lots of in and outs up North.

    You rode some great places, thanks for posting up your trip.

    Made me think you where from Stillwater, Oklahoma home of Eskimo Joes
    #16
  17. HawaiianMaile

    HawaiianMaile The World, my road!

    Joined:
    May 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3
    Location:
    Tacoma, WA
    :kumbaya

    Nice road report. I have enjoyed all the posts and wonderful views.

    Now, it's time to rest, awwwwwww, zzzzzzzzzzzzz!

    See ya next time you come thru.



    :beer
    #17
  18. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    My Touratech Master Cylinder protection lasted 4 days on my last trip. This one lasted 9 days. It broke in the same place. Who else makes one?

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    The Mefo Super Explorer lasted 7,000+- miles
    New is 17/32nd" Wear bars at 11/32nds" this one is at 4/32nds" It rained the last 100 miles and was a slippery son of a gun getting home.:eek1

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    My front TKC 80 usually lasts 9,500 miles. This one is about done at 7,000+- miles

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    Again my RotoPax Fuel carrier had problems. Last year a complete FAIL in every possible way. It was replaced free by RotoPax. This year I used Rok Straps to hold the cans on and the all-thread rod bent instead of snapped.:mrskbasa

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    #18
  19. muskeg

    muskeg Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    Coconino N.F.
    Flyred, thanks for the great RR and follow up info. Alaska is often best early and late in the season. I was wondering if you had any other issues with your Rotopax fuel carriers... leakage etc? What exactly caused the all-thread to bend? They seem like a pretty cool way to carry extra fuel. Also, 50 mpg? I got about 34 my last fill up on my new 990R. Any pointers?



    As a side note and slight 7500, about a month ago I had just hopped of an Alaska Airlines flight and was strolling through the Sea-Tac parking area on my way to pick up my new 990 from Mt. Baker Moto and spotted this:
    [​IMG]
    Yours was the first KTM Adventure I had ever seen in person. It was an awesome way to start my trip!
    #19
  20. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    777
    Location:
    Burien, WA Turbine Whine Country
    Welcome to the 990 world.
    The RotoPax gear failed completely last year. A bad batch of seals that rotted from contact with gas. The mount itself uses a "propeller" that swings 90 degrees and holds down the can and can be stacked two high. Nice idea until you figure in heat expansion which snapped off the all thread rod.
    Discussed in #14 on last years RR
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491927&highlight=prudhoe
    This year I didn't use the propellers and just ROK strapped it down. But heat expansion flexed the cans unevenly and so the can stack pivoted as it grew causing the rod to bend.
    Maybe the answer is to place the cans 180 out of phase so the swell cancels itself out.
    RotoPax replaced everything for free and will be getting another call this week.
    My gas mileage has always been better then the average 990. I use stock gearing and am easy on the throttle. I run at 3900 rpm+- which trues out at 65mph in 6th and I feel is the sweet spot on the LC8 motor. That RPM is at the bottom of the power band. Lots on tap if needed but not bogging. YMMV
    #20