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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by danedg, Mar 22, 2010.
Jezebels' Younger Sister
very sweetly unger! Nice.
am working on a cafe project (r75) speaking of tinkering..
Yes, there was a dent on the top left, and someone did a NOT very good job of filling it.....
Awesome! When did you pick that up?
Syracuse , NY
It was listed on IBMWR.
She's not as pristine or original as advertised, but a good solid bike.
Today we'll drop her fluids and straighten a few glitches.
I went around the block yesterday. It's like a /2 that feels like a /5.
Very interesting bike!
Another US model. Cool. You may get spoiled by the quicker handling with the forks. It's very easy to lean till the valve covers scrape. I don't recommend it though because valve covers are not cheap. And just so you know, you'll have to let the air out of the rear tire to remove the wheel. The 4 x 18 tire is a little too wide to clear the brake shoes when inflated.:eek1 If you need to do fork work, let me know. I have some tricks and tips.
I believe the forks need some attention. Everything is fine up to around 40-50 mph, but then she starts wigglin' and hopping and doin' the Hokey Pokey...:huh
It's not a real confidence builder
Come to think about it...everything on this bike is setup to ride 10 miles to the local Dairy Queen every Saturday night and hang out with a shake and a soda pop That's why the PO only put 8000 mi. on her in the last 15 years.
NOT that there's anything wrong with that!
Jezebel came in ugly and haggard. I'm just about got her runnin' pretty good. And she cleaned up pretty good, too
Lulubel came in all tarted up. She's gonna be hittin' the fitness parlor real quick
Your PM said it felt "loose and sloppy." When I hear that, I think bearings. The most likely is steering stem bearings, but don't rule out wheel bearings. OEM steering stem are loose ball bearings (same as Earles fork). Vech has tapered roller bearings. I seem to remember that you need a spacer for the inner race. Be sure to ask. To check for play, get the front wheel in the air. ( I use 2 peices of 2x10 under the center stand. Tip the bike to one side and push one peice of wood under the raised center stand tang. Then tip the other way and push the other 2x10 under the stand.) Alternately push and pull the forks from near the axle. There should be no free play, but the forks should fall easily to either side. Make sure the steering dampener is loose before checking.
IMPORTANT WARNING: The nuts on the top fork brace need to be torqued to 85 lb/ft. It's important that the wheel is pointed straight ahead and that you apply a counter torque opposite the torque you apply to tighten the nuts. If the wheel is pushed to the steering stops while you tighten, you WILL turn your fork into a hockey stick. DAMHIK I attach the handle bar risers without the bars. Then you can put a 24 inch extension or breaker bar in the risers to "counter torque."
These forks are almost identical to the /5 forks. This article is pretty in depth http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/fork/title.html
I have found thet if everything is properly aligned, the front axle will slip EASILY in place. It should also spin by hand when all the way in, but nothing tightened. Any bind means something is not aligned.
Here is how the bike looks now. I have everything gone through and it starts right up. However, I need a pair of headers because the left side is bended and it leaks like crazy.
I have never worked on a bike with 6V so I have been facing few challenge. 1) Even for a turn signal light bulb, I can't get it from local NAPA store. 2) Need to either borrow or buy a 6V timing light gun 3)need to get a new 6V battery charger/tender to active the new 6V battery.
I feel somehow /2 is not as challenge than I expected because it's the simplest of all the airheads I had.
BTW, the photos were taken 5 feet away via an Iphone.
Just take a spare 12V battery and hook the timing light up to that. Clip the induction lead to the plug wire you're working on. Works fine. Check both sides for "differential timing".
Battery Tender Plus works well on a 6V battery.
Max's in Brookfield should have those bulbs for you...
Never thought about it and just checked the timing this afternoon. It was spot on.
Went to Walmart and picked up a $20 battery maintainer, it looks like will do the job.
I know MAX will have the bulbs or parts for it, but it's ONLY 50 miles away. I understand it's not that far, plus Rt-7 is wicky nice. Do I want to ride/drive up there for a bulb? not really. I might as wait until I need something else and order everything at the same time.
Working on the carbs this evening, and man .. this old machine has temper worse than my ex...
It really pisses 'em off when you ride a 40 sumpin year old bike 50 miles to buy a $6.24 part...
Points Plate Installation
Buy a Dr. Harms designed replacement points plate made by Pentacom.
Gee...the advance mechanism has 78,000 miles on it too... So I got one of them.
My differential timing is 4, maybe 5 degrees out... it used to be a lot worse. Them old parts is “ wore’d out “.
Wake up one morning and decide that originality has to be sacrificed for operating efficiency. It’s time to refresh the ignition. After all, I’ve got the new parts.
Off comes the old advance. It’s well beyond it’s years. A job well done, and a perfectly good emergency backup, should the need arise. Zircon showed up on his R69S last month with a bad copper float... I just happened to have one left over from my Bing rebuild last year... Bada Bing! Bada Boom!
NEVER! Throw any part away.
Got him back to Ohio it did.
Off comes the oriGinal points plate.
The instructions say, “ Remove the original points plate being careful to not drop any of the four spacers into the magneto magnet.”
The spacers are concave 6mm to accept the screw and the back of the plate.
I heard one drop when I pulled the plate, but I can’t find it... they always get away...
The new plate assembly has to be pulled apart to be mounted.
Reinstall points plate and rotate motor to the S mark and...WTF????
The magneto’s not turning???
The magnet’s come loose from the crank nose. Since the four bolts are out the whole shebang comes off.
Lo and Behold! The elusive spacer is attracted to the magnet!
Jammed in there actually, which is what popped the magneto off’n the cam nose, preventing further unimaginable damage, had I actually gotten the thing started like that.
Sort of a , “Don’t do this to your own bike...” kind of moment.
Clean everything up. The mag to cam nose is taper/taper fit. Dry.
The new plate assembly has to be pulled apart to be mounted.
The old screws do not fit past the Chevy points and the Chevy condenser mounting.
Get the plate on and slip the new advance mechanism onto the mag nose... it’s tight, it REALLY tight...WTF?
I speak with Richard at Benchmark Works. He asks if I feel a slight burr on the mag nose. There is, which I gently file off and the new advance slips on like a glove.
It’s time to line everything up. The magneto has to be set to the S mark. The old points mech had the “V” notch. The Harms point plate doesn’t but it has a notch where it should be. There is no reference in the instructions, but there is a handwritten thankyou note, and a phone number for Dr. Harms, should I have a questions...
So, I gave him a call.
I’m installing your points plate, and I’m not sure what the points gap should be or how to align the S mark with your setup.
Just line up the S mark on your fly and the notch on the magneto on my plate. ( Oh! There it is!)
Screw on the points assembly. “ They’re preset at the factory...!” OK
Start the bike and ride it and then adjust the allen head until it idles well and then turn it back a bit til it slows down, then set your carbs...
But, how do I check the static timing?
The timing is now regulated only by the point dwell, the amount of time the points live and break on the cam. ( See Advance Mechanism )By adjusting the points gap, you are now adjusting the engine ignition timing.
“They’re all different due to the custom cut timing gears. Yours might be 2 or 3 d. here, and the next one is 1 or 2 there.They are wonderful handbuilt machines. Each one unique. That’s why my adjustable points plate works. You can actually find the balance in the “Lost Spark” system.
These things are like lawnmowers..they don’t even have a distributor!”
And if you’re into it that deep, pull that Emerald Isle coil outta there and put in a Harley Panhead 6V coil.You can mount it right up underneath the tank by the horn. The original location is the WORST place you could ever mount a coil...too hot.
The Harley coil is 59$ The Bmw is 179$
Thank You Dr.,
It’s been a pleasure speaking with you. I am reminded that we are all rocket surgeons first, and lawnmowers second...
I put it all together and try to start the bike.... NOTHING!
But he said they were adjusted at the factory!????
Bust out the Betjemann points adjusterator...and the points are so far off it’s nut funny...
Hit the break point at the S mark. Tweek the 3mm allen head until happiness.
The new advance mechanism should have been a priority long since.
Like the solos.
Jezebel might have a new lease on life. Starts well, more power..
Went out /2 today with a friend. Seriously, I can ride this thing forever.
One more ...
On a ride to Toymakers last month, I hit the clutch and it went SNAP! The cable end snapped off at the barrel in the handle. It was an old cable.
Adventure ensued, and stories shall be told...
In the driveway the other day, I'm putting the bike away after a frisky 150 mile ride and the front brake cable SNAPS!
Brand new cable...same spot:huh
I was pushing the R60US around in the yard and the front brake cable SNAPPED! Same place...:eek1 WTF?
BMW will not replace a cable that has not been properly lubed.
At the handle.
The receiver unit should be cleaned and lubed with some nice white libdinum. Make sure the barrel unit can swivel nicely when you retract the handle. The barrel then won't cut the swaged end of the cable off at some inopportune moment.
I'm looking at your cables Lucky...
Get that zip tie off there. Your choking your controls. The throttle cables are at an odd angle. Let 'em find their own way down there.
You've got the same handles as I. Pop the big screw and clean 'em up well.
Your life depends on it.
can anyone ID this fender? It's on my r69s, but everyone I've talked to says the fender should be flat on bottom. hard to see, but this actually indents toward the tire in the center like a fishtail. it does not look like damage.
This is one of the first pics ever taken, of this bike. There is no bulge visible.