Slowphil gathers momentum

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Slowphil, Aug 23, 2012.

  1. CallMeBoog

    CallMeBoog hi functioning idiom

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    RIGHT ON PHIL!

    Those pyramids were friggin cool man.

    one request? More food pics

    you just missed out on about 200 mm of rain in the last 7 days, hope your weather is much better.
    #61
  2. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Well we're under way again heading for the fabuled town of Puebla, of course lunch does get in the way so stopped in Rio Frio for a bite to eat

    view from table

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    and because lil green booger has made demands

    delicious sopa

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    In the morning after arriving I wandered over the Italian coffee house and had an excellent cup of coffee

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    but because Puebla is proud of having a huge number of churches it's time to climb on the big bus and take a gander at some of the far out ones

    because I can be dazzled by bright colours I liked this one best

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    while riding the bus I managed to snap a picture of these guys, this is a common sight around the cities now, heavily armed police constantly on patrol, I made sure they didn't see me

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    Puebla is also very proud of the 5th of May which was the day 2000 Mexicans stood off 6000 French troops as they defended the city

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    but what they always fail to mention is that the
    french returned the next year and whomped the snot out of them but the French are gone and history is always written by the winners

    but back to the churches, another beauty maybe this was my favourite instead

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    a little closer look at some of the towers

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    and because man doesn't live by churches alone, as my sainted mother always says the last church picture, it is beautiful in the churches but the amount of money involved in their building and upkeep must be staggering

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    on to the museum of the revolution

    I'll start the tour with a picture out one of the windows, why? just because I liked it!

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    every room in the house is joined to the next two by connecting doors also
    ech room had a door onto the courtyard balcony

    master bedroom

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    living room, very formal and cold feeling


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    courtyard

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    and the one everyones waiting for
    the wall and mirror in the living room peppered with bullet holes where they were standing shooting down at the government troops, things never change do they

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    I finally managed to geta shot of the dragons on the lamps

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    tours over back to daysayuno

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    and the centro, it always amazes me how many people use them their always crowded, old people just nsitting watching, school kids doing their homework, lovers smooching, it's constant


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    Followi8ng round , down the road to Tehucan
    #62
  3. Misery Goat

    Misery Goat Positating the negative Super Moderator

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    Great pics, Phil! :thumb
    #63
  4. BluNozr

    BluNozr Been here awhile

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    I just got your email Phil. I hope all is well and you are feeling better.
    #64
  5. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Thanks for the comments guys

    Yellowknife I can't remember if I answered you yet but I'm paying about 10.54 pesos per liter for gas. When the bike gets down 2 nbars I ususlly stop and fillup, runs me about 130 pesos. So yeah it is a lot cheaper than northern Canada

    and Len yeah I'm back on the road tomorrow
    #65
  6. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    There I was travelling down Mex 135 running through the little town of Tepanco minding my own business when a beautiful old church popped up on the side of the road so lets stop and have a little look

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    There were 3 old guys digging grass out of the cobblestones in the courtyard but I didn't think they'd appreciate having their picture taken so here's the beautiful old wood doors instead

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    after the old guys knocked off for lunch I got a picture of the courtyard

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    but off down the road, I mentioned before so many little towns had impressive entrances, this is the style on this road

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    I had decided to be off the road early today so stopped at Tehuacan, a surprisingly nice little town well worth a stop to see, stayed at the Hotel Plaza Iberia, Av Independencia Oriente #211. A beautoiful example of colonial era houses turned into hotels

    upper interior balcony

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    courtyard scene at night

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    and the food in the restaurant is top knotch - Chiles En Nogada

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    went in to the church at the centro and stumbled into ths scene of marital bliss

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    the best shot though was tyhe flower girls trying to save the flowers

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    the centro was a happening place on a Saturday night

    The Angel of Death is a real great guy to buy a prediction from but he was busy

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    clowns really made the crowd laugh

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    and this guy was trying to entice me into a store to buy something, he seemed so enthused I'd thought I'd snap a picture and he really liked that

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    I'm afraid that as in every night it started to bucket down rain, the crowds dis appeared, I had a cerveza and headed back to the colonial mansion

    but one more because even rain doesn't stop mischief makers, the crowd that was gathered seemed to consider it part of Saturday night entertainment though

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    #66
  7. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Well I continued down Mex 135 into Oaxaca and the scenery is magnificant

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    it just seemed to go on and on so I'll let it speak for itself

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    but with the good comes the bad, all the torrential rain has caused tremendous damage in this part of Mexico

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    I was moving quickly down a 4 lane section of road when a Detour sign appeared moving me onto this
    now this was the best part of the whole detour it deteriorated quite quickly and quite badly. I was too busy trying to stay upright and get out of this place to get anymore pictures

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    There were no signs and many turns so after about 20 minutes I came up to a farmer who was actually very accurate in describing how to get back on the detour and out of the maze

    Next: In Oaxaca
    #67
  8. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Just before going into any city centro I always check the gas and if need be fill up so following this golden rule I pulled into the next Pemex and topped up, I glanced down and there were some drops of oil under the bike. Had a real good look under the bike and came to the conclusion that oil was coming out the top of the rear shock. BAD, BAD NEWS. On with the trip

    The next day it took me half a day to locate a Suzuki dealer, off I go with all sorts of bad feelings, when I finally found the place, it's actually a different address from the internet and phone book, more than a kilometer error but at least still on the circular road. The owner luckily spoke some English so we had a little discussion, went out to see the mechanic who looked at it, studied it carefully and said - no - theres nothing wrong its just chain oil. Well that made this man my favourite person

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    since that took all day I figured I would have supper and a beer in the centro and start touring the city in the morning
    That night was the start of Montezuma's revenge, felt god awful in the morning and deteriorated from there, like really really bad

    trying to get breakfast down, looks delicious but wasn't going down easy

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    went back to the room and slept

    lunch was a bowl of sopa de pollo

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    some of the very few pictures I took of Oaxaca,market scene

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    Oaxaca centro in the rain

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    sweeping up the water so the tourists don't get their feet wet

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    my first and last beer in Oaxaca

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    the owner and people at the hotel where I stayed we're very very good to me, did my laundry for free and checked on me once in a while. I checked out Bakker's Hotel America which was directly across the street from my hotel, nice, clean and newly renovated but I managed to talk my hotel down to match the price and got a nicer room out of the deal. There has to be 20 hotels in 1 square block, so you can go by price or quality which either you want quite easily

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    looking down at the courtyard

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    no more food pictures, after I threw up on my plate in the first restaurant I ate outside to try and avoid making a mess, I managed to do it twice more but then such is life

    managed to get to Monte Albin

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    ball court where they played their national sport, they played the length and up the sloping sides

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    one of the few stellas which seemed to have been there, the whole place
    was very plain. You have to hand it to the natives they levelled the top of a mountain to build their city and it was pretty near impregnable

    after a not very good time in Oaxaca (all my fault)it's off to Puerto Escondido
    #68
  9. Paddygfw

    Paddygfw Adventurer

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    :lurk Great pictures
    #69
  10. C-Stain

    C-Stain Long timer

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    Hope you're feeling better! We took a run to New France last night - you were missed! But, I think you're on a much grander adventure than we had! Ride safe!
    #70
  11. acejones

    acejones Long timer

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    Really nice pics. Hope you continue feeling better. Sopa de pollo should help. That was my remedy on one of my trips. It was also about the only thing my brain wanted me to eat.
    #71
  12. CallMeBoog

    CallMeBoog hi functioning idiom

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    sorry to hear you weren't feeling well Phil, I hope it's the worst that happens on your trip. That Sopa de Pollo sure looked good!

    Yes, we were in to New France over the weekend, with Fred, and NSRider - was a good trip and even enjoyed a downpour.
    #72
  13. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    How come you guys wait until I turn my back to sneak off to New France, it was deliberate wasn't it. The soup was excellent, most of it is down here, I've run into some food I couldn't handle but not too much

    Cheers
    #73
  14. Rooster Cruiser

    Rooster Cruiser Adventurer

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    Hey Phil! Nice to see your still headed south! I met you in North Carolina at the Iron Horse motorcycle resort by the dragon's tail. I was the fat guy on the KLR heading back from Alaska! I just got back to work. It sucks! 3 months off was great! Keep going for those of us that can't! Nice to see you on here brother! Happy trails! I'll be keeping up with you on here...
    #74
  15. Antennas

    Antennas Been here awhile

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    Looks like wonderful trip. Thanks for the great pictures. Take care and all the best.
    #75
  16. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Thanks to everybody who hoped I was getting better and this was the last of everything - READ ON (in a voice of doom)

    headed to Puero Enscondido looking forward to a few days of lazing and relaxing in the sun, decided to heck with the budget and would head down the cuota (toll) road just to get down there. Now when I checked google map it showed cuota sections on both roads heading down, when I checked Guia Roji maps it showed cuotas on both roads and when I looked at itmb map it showed cuota on both roads. Guess what, there was no cuota on the road I went down and no I didn't miss the turn off. As a matter of fact it was a winding twisting road but with good weather it didn't matter it was kind of enjoyable, after a couple of hours I realized it was probably the most dangerous section of road I've ridden on this trip, I must have passed about 15 sections of road where they had just finished cleaning up the landslides that had occured. Got to about 30 kms to the end, came around a curve and there it was, a section of road closed off by landslide and people working at clearing it. No way forward and about 5 hrs back to the nearest hotel

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    I got talking to a German guy on a tourist bus who had been sitting for half an hour already, apparently as soon as the slide happened the people came from all the little villages with picks and shovels and started clearing it by hand, as the truck drivers arrived they climbed down and joined in.

    they worked steady with no straw boss over them

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    until they dug far enough down that vehicles could start across if they wanted

    the truckers who dug were the first ones across which seemed to me to be absolutely fair (and for the record I didn't dig, I would have gotten in their way)

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    now I should explain, the soils on this road appear to be a one partical size
    silt, if you mix this with a small amount of water you will end up with an extremely smooth polished surface with a layer of slick goose snot over it. After the trucks had been over it it was also criss crossed with ruts. Now those that have ridden off road pretty well know whats coming. When it was my turn I stopped short of the mud, studied the situation, gave it some throttle and went like mad across, by my estimation I made it a good 3/4 or 7/8 across before crashing the front wheel into a rut, down I went with my leg underneath, I would say it took less than a second before they were lifting the bike off me but too late, I now have a sprained ankle and twisted knee but 1 1/2 weeks later it's feeling almost back to normal. Sometimes it seems life has it in for you but the recuperation more than made up for it. Got into Puerto Escondido just before sundown so grabbed a reasonably priced hotel 200 pesos on the edge of town

    this is what I espied with my little eye in the morning

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    because my ankle was sore I parked my small backside under the palapa by the pool, sat and drank beer and skyped the ever faithful bride and made her commiserate with me about how tough my life is but finally hunger drove me downtown Puero to have supper

    Puerto Escondido downtown in the heat of the afternoon

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    the restaurant I fixed on for supper
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    and the very pleasant lady who served me

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    I had a perfectly delectable mango pollo con arroz

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    the next day I went downtown by local pickup bus 5 pesos, I'll let Puerto show itself to you

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    forgot to mention when you order a meal you always get a dish of spicy fish as an hors d'oeuvres, very good too you can't even taste the fish

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    there's not much fish I like but I do like fresh tuna especially when doused with garlic which doesn't seem to be used much down here

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    met my neighbour one day but he seemed a bit standoffish and didn't want to talk

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    my last day there 16th September the hotel owners were up early and were starting to cook a mysterious pot of something but I wasn't sure what it was and am too painfully shy to push my way into things and ask

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    the end of the day and I was invited down to have some of the delicious soup they prepare every year on this day, I couldn't catch the name of it but the whole family tucked right into it

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    another sad farewell and I was off down the road to Juchitan de Zaragoza for an over night stop. This place convinced me I needed to get back up into the mountains again, just straight blinding heat

    Next: On to San Cristobal de las Casas
    #76
  17. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Hola mi amigos y amigas

    first I have to admit I've been to San Cristobal de las Casas before and have a bit of a soft spot for it

    so here we go:

    after leaving Puerto Escondido headed for the small town that should be renamed "The Shoulder Of Hell" just because of how hot it is I stopped at a little road side cafe, the breakfast was pretty good but the young lady talked me into trying a "coco frio", she opened the bottom part of her freezer and took out a coconut with all the trimmings still on and proceeded to lop off the top with a machete and stick in a straw. I have never really cared for cocnut milk but I have never tasted anything this good or cold before I had it all through breakfast and it never warmed up

    this is the only picture of that day and evening

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    one of the unsung workers who help keep us travelling
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    Posada in Bakkers book, yes it is very nice but a bit of a hoof to town but 5 pesos on the bus handles that

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    view of the room

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    and out the window

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    San Cristobal doesn't have the biggest fanciest or cleanest centro but it's still busy

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    actually the first thing right after breakfast is bike maintainance, I noticed yesterday it was taking almost the complete sweep of the clutch lever to disengage the clutch so adjustments had to be made

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    out of order but heres breakfast, wup sorry no breakfast picture but here's the womans cooperative where I ate

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    and the ladies who were running it that day

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    went to the artisans market, very eclectic collection of locals and foreign hippies selling their stuff, the picture doesn't do it justice, it's laid out like a hub and spoke and you can wander for quite a while in there

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    as you wander the towns of Mexico you get the impression from the endless graffiti covered walls and doors that most of Mexico is dirt poor but every now and then the door opens a crack and you get a quick peek of what really lies back there

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    this is one of the more colourful churches in San Cristobal, have a look at the sky behind it foretells the not too distant future

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    I liked the little yards and courtyards of the churches better than the churches themselves



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    in one of the markets this gentleman explained he was waterproofing the leather hats with oil before sale

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    here's a few odd pictures which defy a catagory, local police motorcycle

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    one of the many different shapes of guitars down here

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    a Scotty patiently waiting for his buddy

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    and these threads seem to descend into an orgy of food

    another delicious sopa

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    supper tonight, I think it was called Mer y Tierra (stirfry of shrimp, beef, chicken and vegetables cooked perfectly. I had a piece of berry cheese cake for dessert but I scoffed that down before my mind said picture, it was awesome as well. The whole supper including two coffees was 90 pesos

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    now here is a really neat gentleman, I was sitting having a coffee and contemplating the universe when we struck up a conversation. We ended up hanging together all afternoon, he and his wife are contemplating retiring into Mexico and are down scouting out areas

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    if your down this way and recognize Stefan definitely say hello, your afternoon will be well rewarded

    I mentioned I needed a new shirt to replace the ratty old t shirt I was wearing and since Stefan wanted one as well we ended up harassing all the local women and men selling shirts. We nickeled and dimed two of them down to 85 pesos each for the shirts, we had to have two of them because each only had one XL shirt, we then led a parade over to the bank so we could break 500 pesos bills, the sellers weren't letting us out of their sight let me tell you. Anyway THE SHIRT

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    anyway that sort of covers San Cristobal de Las Casas

    Next: waiting to meet Ed who's been travelling two days to catch up
    #77
  18. TREE

    TREE Interloper

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    Great pics ! :thumb
    #78
  19. Nsman

    Nsman Adventurer

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    Pimping shirt Phil,but you should have picked up one of those oiled hats to go with it!
    Keep the reports coming,great reading.
    #79
  20. acejones

    acejones Long timer

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    Keep it coming !
    #80