Slowphil gathers momentum

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Slowphil, Aug 23, 2012.

  1. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    As stated quite often the weather sometimes is not the greatest and when your in high altitudes it can be quite cool and heading toward Pasto it got quite high

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    stopped for a coffee and a break from riding

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    along came another rider on a Super Tenere, Mathias from Germany, he has the job of writing for one of the German moto mags


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    the countryside is quite amazing for changes of altitude and twisties

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    when we arrived at Pasto nobody could figure out where the hostal was so around we wandered, what saved us was a local rider stopped and led us to where we wanted to go which turned out to be right across the city, we invited him back for a cerveza after work which he accepted

    the hostal was on a very narrow street and while we were unloading the gear we ended up being the major attraction of the day for downtown Pasto

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    nice old hostal as well

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    went for a wander downtown and this steeple caught my attention because of it's ornateness

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    and the church underneath it was quite amazing

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    ended up at the centro where I ran into the other guys but for some reason this young lady seemed to have taken quite a fancy to me, she circled the centro a number of times and each time she stopped to talk to me, as you can see in the background Gabby thought this was hilarious

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    Pasto turned out to be a nice little town which I enjoyed, worth a visit
  2. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    the countryside heading to the border doesn't get any easier

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    one of the attractions I really wanted to visit was Las Lajas Sanctuary just outside of Ipales which lies almost alongside the Colombia Ecuador border

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    its quite unique, people saw a vision of the Virgin Mary standing on a rock on the side of the gorge so they built the church high enough to incorporate the rock into the altar

    the major window

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    thousands of people put up signs saying thank you for a miracle

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    and one of the local inhabitants enjoying the countryside

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    but off we go again to the border with Ecuador which turned out to be really easy to get through

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  3. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Once across the border we headed for a little place that Ed had stayed at before, Hostal Aida in La Esperanza. It is well known, back in the 60's the area was famous for magic mushrooms and the hostal had visitors such as Bob Dylan, Joan Baez and more

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    they have some huge moths here

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    we paid $16 each/night but that included breakfast and supper which were fabulous, the one downer about the place was that the internet didn't work, we had to go across the street to pirate a signal from the home owner and no C-Stain I'm not throwing up on my computer I'm talking to my Beloved Bride

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    the evenings were quiet just sitting around talking and drinking from huge bottles of beer

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    We stayed a total of three days so Ed, Mathias and myself stripped all the luggage off our bikes and went up into the mountains

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    it's excellent countryside, we followed some tracks until whoops

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    the shepard was really nice, quite eager to talk about his life

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    but all good things come to an end and it was time for Ekki and I to shove off to Quito

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    did the usual tourist stuff and visited the Cathedral

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    liability must be very low here you can climb all over the cathedral including up on the roof

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    there's a million nooks and cranies in the building

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    Ekki wanted me to show how hard the riding is down here

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    We now journey down the highway to Banos
  4. C-Stain

    C-Stain Long timer

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    I wouldn't have thought you were throwing it...maybe searching for a better signal...! Looks like you're having a blast. I have to say, I'm more than a little bit jealous!

    How is the bike holding up? I know you mentioned it was an inch too low..but how are things otherwise? Tires, chain and such? No issues?

    Keep having fun bud! (We'll be thinking about you tomorrow. Heading out on a a bit of a ride on the local trails/fire roads!)
  5. rtwpaul

    rtwpaul out riding...

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    Phil do you remember the name of this place? i'll be there in about three weeks doing the crossing, looks good...enjoying the report :clap
  6. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    I can't believe I forgot to add this: another major milestone of the trip.

    We left La Esperanza and headed down the highway confident in the fact there would be signs on every road announcing when we were at the EQUATOR but no not on the road we were on, of course I could understand it, it was a winding twisting mountainous road with absolutely no place to stop. When we finally figured we were past the line we headed back up another road to find it

    looking desperately for the equator

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    and then there it was

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    and the mandatory tourist shots

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    I really wanted to put the bike here but the rules forbid it

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    a little bit down the road we ran into major construction work on the road so while waiting I got the local police to strike a pose while standing beside his trusty vstrom 650

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    In the background you can see a huge lineup of vehicles ahead of us, when they opened the road for us we lane split past it and were on a clear road in about 7 minutes, ya gotta love it!!!

    Next: back on track and in Banos de Agua Santa
  7. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Hey C: bikes doing fine except for the pieces I keep breaking off, actually it seems to be a bit rough right now but thats probably because it needs the valves checked, the high alcohol content of the Peruvian gas and the high altitudes we're travelling. The Heidenaus are doing well I think I have somewhere between 5000 to 8000 km left in them, that will be about 35,000km on them, chain is good needs to be tightened right now but it's still running quietly, I try to oil it every 500km or so. Can't think of anything else, oh yeah, my trusty sheepskin seat cover which has lasted for about 15 years at home rotted out in 2 months of Central American rain, it literally disintigrated
  8. yellowknife

    yellowknife Is In Canada

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  9. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Can't remember myself but I emailed another guy who was there and when I hear I'll post. You will probably really like the Stahlratte, we had an excellent time and the party went on for another week in Cartagena which is a fabulous city, actually the whole country of Colombia is fabulous, I wasn't there anywhere long enough but will spend time there on the way back home

    Cheers Philip
  10. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Banos de Agua Santa: a little tourist town which rightly holds the description of a great place to visit. If there's anything you have wanted to try in extreme sport this is the place, Paragliding, scuba, bungee jumping, canyoning, rappelling, horseback riding, if you want to do it somebody is selling it and the town is nice as well

    church at centro

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    We were there over the Day of the Dead which is party time everywhere south of the USA

    small waterfall right in town at the hot springs, sit in the hot hot water of the springs and then stand under the cold cold water falls, it's quite a feeling

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    fireworks downtown with rockets going off all day long

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    the local police band played and they were pretty good

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    but every second song was played by the band behind them, a bit of a competition going on

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    there were all sorts of things going on in the downtown area, this guy had quite a crowd gathered round
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    These guys were good enough on the pan flutes they convinced me to cough up $5 and buy one of their CD's, it was painful but I had to do it

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    the Tuk Tuk's were in the town in the hundreds but this one was special, the dog looked completely blaise about being chauffered around in his own Tuk Tuk and the owner looked a little off the wall as well

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    I tried to do a lot of walking while I was there to loosen my knees up a bit, the side streets are not quite as fancy as the main streets

    main street

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    back street, there's lots of money in the town from tourism but the average person is not rich

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    stayed at the Hostal Plants y Blanco which was cheap, $7 in a 4 person dorm, comfortable, nicely kept with lots of interesting people around and secure parking for the bikes. Edited to add,the young backpackers convinced me to head downtown with them the last evening, 3am I finally rolled back in while they were still partying hard. I was up and on the road at 8am the next morning while the youngsters were still nowhere to be seen

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    and the kitchen

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    where I produced such cullinary delights as this

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    but it was now time to move on to Peru
  11. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    The place is called Las Serenas, have fun

    Cheers Philip
  12. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    It's a real let down when you leave a place like Banos and the road can sometimes seem like a grind moving every day, we have figured out that we now have a new schedule 25th December in Ushuiau and we have to start hustling to make it, it's times like this I envy Crashmeister with his two years of travelling. Anyway we decided to head for the coast and run down it for a couple of days

    but first heading for the borders

    I have to interrupt myself here, I'm sitting in my room in Casma Peru typing this and someone is playing the pan pipes out on the street and it's echoing up through the courtyard, the player is excellent and the music is beautiful

    the colours in the pictures are exactly correct, that's the kind of day it was

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    the country is still tough to move through, it takes forever to make 100 kms

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    and every now and then after honking down the road you come around a curve to see this

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    ended up at Macara right on the Peruvian border, actually not a bad place for a border town, clean and the people were pleasant and relatively safe for a border town

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    next morning we were at the border early and surprise--it was very relaxed, quick with a few laughs thrown in for good measure, edited-the aduana and migration people on both sides were very nice to work with

    goodbye Ecuador I had some really good times

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    and hello Peru I hope your as welcoming

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    and next: disappointment
  13. farrell caesar

    farrell caesar Seezer

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    Thanks for the inspiring report ! Lots of good info. Couldn't go to bed till I got here. Salud !
  14. C-Stain

    C-Stain Long timer

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    :lurk

    Well, don't keep us in suspense!
  15. CourtRand

    CourtRand Been here awhile

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    Great pics of Ecuador! Hope you will come back and visit!
  16. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Hi CourtRand: glad you liked the pictures, that's a beautiful country you live in and yes I'm hoping on my way back up I'll be able to stay even longer

    Cheers Philip
  17. livewire

    livewire Adventurer

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    Peru? Disappointment? I'm all ears! :ear
  18. CallMeBoog

    CallMeBoog hi functioning idiom

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    Fixed that for you
  19. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Well I'm really glad I have to eat my words:clap, not 100% but about 98% of them, stay tuned

    Cheers
  20. Slowphil

    Slowphil REALLY Gnarly Adventurer

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    Now thats funny, I wouldn't go to Dartmouth for awhile if I were you:rofl