Snow/winter riding information

Discussion in 'The Perfect Line and Other Riding Myths' started by Dysco, Sep 21, 2004.

  1. randyo

    randyo Long timer

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    when I studded my Karoo Ts a couple years ago, I hooked up with someone on another forum that had a stud gun, it was his 3rd season on studs, first year he was on Aerostitch studs

    when I went to his house, at the end of the day, he said the Karoo Ts were the hardest rubber that he had studded, I know we didn't use a bit larger than 1/8"

    I think larger holes accept studs easier, it took a good 100 miles of riding to get the studs seated in all the way, the first 50 miles or so was real sketchy riding, but as they got seated, you can hardly tell the difference

    in my front tire, I have about 9000 miles on it and its at about 50% wear, haven't lost any studs on the front tire, I did loose a few in the rear and it's at about 30% tread after one winter season (5000miles) and threw 3 or 4 studs,

    still debating if I'm gonna use the front another season @ 50% or get a new front, I'm thinking trying the Aerostitch studs, expensive, I won't be going back to a motorcycle tire in the rear ever for winter, the car tire is just too good in winter conditions. but I may go from the unstudded General Altimax Artic to a studded Nokian Hakappelliitta:ear
  2. FloorPoor

    FloorPoor Been here awhile

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    Has anyone tried a Shinko 244? They have a similar tread pattern as a K270, but are quite a bit cheaper. They also have very good reviews for traction and longevity on bikebandit. I like the 270, but just ordered a 244 front to try(non studded for now) because it was cheaper shipped, than the 270 before shipping. They have gone up in price $10 since the last one I ordered.

    As far as the T-63 is concerned, I have one that was ridden about 800 miles and taken off of my friends DR 650 (he is a little odd and won't continue running a tire that has had a puncture) What is the minimum tread depth to studd this tire? 10mm? I have never run a T-63 on my bike, but rode friends with them and they seemed to work quite well, and the price is good. The only problem I have seen with them is the stiff carcass. The same friend who gave me the tire had a flat on a ride and it was a BITCH to get the bead to break, and a PITA to get it to seat again.
  3. luke-gr

    luke-gr n00b

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    Randyo, thanks for your input. Maybe I'll take a look at the Karoos again due to your mileage. Id be using the Karoo2 on the KLR. Assuming those would work OK. Sounds like Im being a little too paranoid about putting mileage on the studs and wearing them out.

    I think FloorPoor and I are having the same question about how to determine if a stud will work and determining the correct length? Do I simply measure the height of the knob and get studs that are that length or less or can the stud sit into the carcass of the tire a bit?

    Money is certainly a consideration for me but I dont want to get into a situation where I have a tire that wont work and I'll pretty much be buying on others recommendations. I dont think my local dealer carries Shinkos.

    Thanks for all your input.
  4. randyo

    randyo Long timer

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    almost every report I've seen and my own experience is that studs increase the tires tread life
  5. Dysco

    Dysco Diaper slinger

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    Yes... sorta. I managed to stud a 10" trials tire to put on my scooter a few years back. Those were maybe 8mm, but very pliable.

    The rear T-63 has a deeper tread than the front now that I've looked at it. The rear might even hold a 12, but the front is pretty shallow. Still haven't measured it. :lol3

    :stupid
  6. luke-gr

    luke-gr n00b

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    Understood. Ive seen that for sure in my truck tires in the past. Not sure why I have been previously determined to install them on another set of wheels. :shrug: Other than mounting/ dismounting at for the season.....I may end up only with an extra front. I suppose it is safer to just put them on at the first sign of snow/ice that way there are no surprises. I suppose I was thinking of trying to keep the studs fresh so they were there when I needed them but probably being neurotic over nothing. I do put 1500 miles a month on the bike right now.

    But you still feel like it'll accept a stud? My local tire store doesnt carry anything smaller than a #12 which is 11mm long. But, Im sure they would order for me. I really like the idea of something more along the T63 or a Karoo which hopefully will give me some better mileage and ride better particularly if I install the tires and leave them on. Do I measure the tread depth and that is the longest stud that will fit? Or is there some margin there? Say the front tread groove is 10mm, is that the max length stud that will work? I think that is my final question (cheers from the gallery :))
  7. randyo

    randyo Long timer

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    my office is out in the barn, so I don't have a regular commute, I usually put my studded tires on right after thanksgiving, sometimes we have snow/ice earlier, I do have a Jeep if necessary, but a little snow won't stop me without studs, specially with the car ire on back, I've been runnin an unstudded Karoo 2 all summer, almost time to turn it around and run it backward
  8. pjm204

    pjm204 Long timer

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    I took a little snow ride Saturday on the Strom. I was impressed how well it handled. I do think I'd like to look into some studs for this winter. I didn't use any last winter and the KLR and I probably should have. Though I try not to ride when there is snow on the road.
  9. ride4321

    ride4321 Long timer

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    Is anyone using ACF-50 to protect their bike from salt and corrosion? The few places I can find it online want almost as much to ship it as it costs ($11.00). I'd like to coat both of my bikes before winter.

    http://www.skygeek.com/acf-50.html
  10. luke-gr

    luke-gr n00b

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    I saw that ACF50 mentioned somewhere in my recent searching....probably on this site. Dont remember seeing much commentary about it. :shrug:

    About my tire studding...

    I bought a Kenda Trakmaster and had three test studs inserted. Seemed to work fine. Ive now drilled the 90% of the rest that I am going to do (had to stop to fix the switch on my drill). I'll get it back to the shop to finish the other studs on Saturday. I drilled more knobs Dysco did on his tutorial page. I feel OK about that since I have two front wheels so will switch during dry spells.
    I did notice some cracking in the rubber around the studs now that the tire has set for a couple days. Does that mean my holes should be a little larger? The guy who installed them did dip the tip of the gun in lube.
  11. randyo

    randyo Long timer

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    some crack is ok as long as the studs are still tight

    at least it was with my Karoo Ts, in front, 2 full winter seasons, 10,000 miles. haven't thrown a stud on the front tire down to about 40% treadlife

    rear was toast after 1 season, it threw a couple studs as well
  12. MoBill

    MoBill Smiles when says dat

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  13. Ceri JC

    Ceri JC UK GSer

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    ACF-50 is great. It is very common amongst all weather bikers in the UK where our governments cover the roads in grit and salt that can corrode bikes very quickly. It is expensive compared to, say WD-40 or vaseline, but it works well and saves you a lot of time cleaning/reapplying as it stays on far longer than the alternatives, even when ridden regularly in driving rain/snow.

    Process is: Clean your bike properly just before winter and then absolutely douse the bike (brakes aside) in the stuff. It should feel a bit slimy to the touch, even once dry if you've put enough on. End of season, give it a thorough washing off and cleaning. The dirt and crap from winter will come off with what is left of the film of ACF-50. If you experience especially long winters (or are particularly fussy about how your bike looks) repeat this process mid winter.
  14. luke-gr

    luke-gr n00b

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    I have a Saingear vest which Ive had since 1993 or so. It did not come with a switch. The SAE plugs are not easy to unplug on the fly. Wondering if anyone has a suggestion about adding a switch to it? For sake of simplicity and (especially) economics I'd just like an on/off switch.

    I looked around the auto parts stores where there are a multitude of switches but all are designed to be panel mounted not mounted inline in a wire. Lowes Hardware has a rocker switch designed for lamps but I know it is not water proof. Not sure how big of an issue that really is??

    Any advice would be appreciated.
  15. PackMule

    PackMule love what you do Super Moderator

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    That's a great tip on the hand cleaner. Widely available in small bottles, and serves double duty in a tool bag, too. :thumb
  16. Mollygrubber

    Mollygrubber Eschew obfuscation

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    And here I thought I was a hard-ass riding through the winter in Vancouver. :roflThis thread has some big swingin' balls...
  17. aholecop

    aholecop Adventurer

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    i use heated gear. heated gloves and put my Ural in 2 wd in the snow, it does great donuts! :norton
  18. luke-gr

    luke-gr n00b

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    I got 'em done. I have about 360 miles on the studded tires. Last snow forecast fizzled so no good adventures yet. I did learn that letting the drill bit sit and spin in the tire for a few seconds was key to getting the hole good and cleaned out. Im running a Trakmaster front with #15 stud and Michelin rear with #13s. I'll post back after we get some snow. This December has been far warmer than the last.

    Im gonna have to look into some heated gloves. Once it gets into the 20s my heated grips and Polar Hands (Hippo Hands) just dont do the trick. Fingertips get hurting cold. Im not really keen on electric gloves due to the wiring hassles. Im thinking about trying mittens or some other kind of three finger glove. Any suggestions?
  19. nulluser

    nulluser Been here awhile

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    <iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/AKtteVPKDWs" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="420"></iframe>


    This is from a few years ago.
  20. rivercreep

    rivercreep Banned

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    http://www.flyncycle.com/Winter_Riding_Gloves_p/glvrd07.htm

    And oxford heated grip wraps (hot hands)