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Discussion in 'The Perfect Line and Other Riding Myths' started by Dysco, Sep 21, 2004.
Good point. I'll take your word for it and stud the center as well.
Ready to go.
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found a pic that shows the pattern rotation
I thought they worked fairly well in mixed snow, ice and dry pavement. These were regular car chains on a set of D606s, a road legal knobbie.
The changes I made were to add the bungee cords to keep the chains stable on the tires, and some nuts and bolts that went through the chain links in the rear so that there would be some metal sticking up above the knob. There's room for improvement, especially the front chain, but even as is it's way better than nothing and a lot easier than carrying a spare set of tires. No doubt a dedicated set of tires would give much better performance.
The front wheel didn't get very good sideways traction in the snow so staying under power in a turn was important. Braking worked well when upright though. No problems at all with rear wheel traction. Speed was definitely limited to 30mph, above that and the chains would lift off the tire and slap the fender.
For bad trolling... that is all.
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Anybody used Maxi-grip studs? They screw in with a screw gun and a bit with a stop, and are pretty reasonable, cost wise. Thanks
Link me to the threads where people have logged hundreds of hours doing those things and are sharing tips on it- i'll try to read with interest and not make an ass of myself in them...
I occasionally run chains, they work well if they can bite into the surface, but they don't help at all on black ice.
Here's chains on my studded spare, Dualsport tires and 2wd were all needed this day.
And I concur.
Below is my stud pattern on my Trackmasters. On my tires and on Randy's the studs seem set in far enough that only the carbide tip of the stud is piercing the ice thus giving maximum rubber contact on pavement. Jules, I hope yours aren't protruding out too far thus lessening rubber contact to pavement. My tires are also studded one knob farther out. These tires are more than 5yrs old now and the edges are getting a little rounded. I'm wondering if I should start thinking about doing up some new ones.
Oh, and I ascribe to the dirtracker's/moto-xer's foot out when getting sideways. I don't get sideways out in traffic on main streets but on side streets it's worked great thru a few winters. Lock to lock baby.
Good luck and have fun, Mark H.
That's a really good point. I guess it all depends where you do it.
thats my experience with chains on car & truck wheels as well, for that reason, I wouldn't consider chains except for temporary use in snow deeper than 6"
I have found the studded Karoo front/ Darkside snow tire rear combo works well on my V-Strom till snow gets about 6" deep
but of course, chains on my rear tire (darkside) is no longer an option, as I have a clearance issue, the tire chains would snag the drive chain, I have less than 1/8 " clearance as it is
with automotive studs, I can comfortably travel at highway speeds up to 65 or 70 on dry pavement and at speeds up to 45-50 mph on packed snow & ice
They are sticking out too far. I'm hoping they seat a bit deeper once I ride it, I'm not sure.
I thought about going out one more row, I'm not sure how necessary it is. Maybe if I was expecting to ride to work every morning and we got more snow here I would have. I don't know, maybe I should have.
Just got my tires studded up. Can't wait to try them out.
I would put more in there.
In this case I have to agree, make sure you always have at least one stud in good contact with the road when going straight. If you don't, your rubber just skids and all the studs scratch the air :)
Maybe you could leave out the outermost ones instead next time, depending on your prevalent road conditions. It is always a compromise, and never will be as nice as dry Summer roads with normal tires.
Outer knobs have no studs, just the centers and intermediate. I can always go back and put more studs in, I didn't want to over stud since they pave the roads with salt here. I've actually slipped more on piled salt than i have on ice and snow. A good 80% of the time this winter they will only see wet and slush. I'll be taking it to an abandoned shopping mall once this storm hits and try it out. The front has 94 studs, 4 out of every repeating group of 16 knobs in the center don't have studs. Outer row has no studs. The rear has 100 studs, Went with a repeating inverted V pattern, far outer knobs no studs again. Pushing on it on a concrete floor feels pretty good, you can feel the stud scrape a bit but the rubber still grabs. I predict similar feeling to riding gravel when the road is not icy.
Has anyone come up with new ideas for winter helmets? I gave up on my HJC IS-MAX because both versions of chin curtains are junk that pops out and without them the cold air getting dumped across my eyes makes long trips unmanageable. I went back to my CL-15, but snowblindness is a problem and i'm not willing to risk another accident by resting glasses on the breath box.
I was at a dealer drooling over the Skidoo BVS2 again, but still can't justify US$400 for a 1/4 of the year helmet, especially not with a +$100 replacement visor.
I'm looking at a Vemar Geo because of the primo internal sun visor, but would have to fit a foggy to it, not sure about the air flow, and the visor isn't pinlock (with no replacements for sale that i'm seeing around).
For half the price there's the HJC IS-16. It would hopefully be all the things i liked about the IS-MAX with a useful chin curtain (and minus the flip up part, not a big deal to me). The only thing is HJC only offers sun visors in light tinting (supposedly safety regulations, although Vemar's is significantly darker).
BTW, the Visorcat looks promising as an answer to destroying visors trying to wipe the road crap off of them with a glove...
I'm a big fan of Scorpion helmets and have been using one of their EXO Snow Helmets with an electric shield for the past number of winters.
Haven't tried their latest EXO-900 with the flip up front but it still incorporates their well designed breath box and chin curtain.
Good luck and have fun, Mark H.
I tried on an IS-16 and the largest size didn't quite fit me. I did find some Scorpion EXO-500s on clearance and decided to try the 3XL. They talk about everything having a good anti-fog coating (the website mentioned a pinlock Maxvision which i hadn't heard of elsewhere), but i don't see a breath box offered. I assume the inflatable cheek pads make it hard to standardize. Figure i'll try to adapt one of the HJC boxes i have, or get a Respro Foggy, in case the maxishield doesn't hold back the tide of frost.