So Here's My Clutch Disc

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Dan Alexander, Nov 8, 2012.

  1. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    I'd like to know, as well.
    #21
  2. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander only happy when sad

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    So here's the clutch plate resurfaced with new friction material and the other parts milled flat and bead blasted which all cleaned up nicely. $90 which I think is pretty reasonable as BMW wants $800CDN for a new set.

    I'm trying to find the bolt tightening specs but I'm coming up empty, does anyone have the torque vales handy??

    [​IMG]
    #22
  3. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    Looks Great! Who surfaced the plates? I have a couple here I want to do!
    Right out of the BMW 1150 OE Manual: Should be the same for the 1100 - M6 replaceable bolts?
    Tightening torque:
    Housing cover to flywheel ............................ 12 Nm
    #23
  4. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander only happy when sad

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    I took Dirt Boy's advice in post 3 and took them to Ottawa Clutch, they did the whole job in one day. I guess if you mailed them in it wouldn't be too expensive and easy as it's still in Canada. If you want you can send them to me and I'll drop them off for you.

    http://www.ottawaclutch.com/

    The owner is a biker and we had a good chat, he's done a few BMW bike clutches already so he's familiar.

    Thanks for the specs, now back to the garage!
    #24
  5. Dirt_Boy

    Dirt_Boy Been here awhile

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    Great deal on the new clutch :clap
    #25
  6. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander only happy when sad

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    :thumb

    Thanks for the heads up on the local shop.
    #26
  7. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    Uh-oh...the clutch indexing marks are all gone....now whaddya gonna do?

    This from my 2001 GS REPROM;

    Clutch to crankshaft hub, lightly oiled screws (new screws), 40Nm initial, 32 degrees rotation.

    Housing cover to flywheel, 12Nm.

    A little dab of moly fortified grease where the spring contacts the pressure plate and housing.

    Keep us informed about the performance of the new clutch...that's quite a savings.

    Did they perhaps also balance the whole assembly?
    #27
  8. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander only happy when sad

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    I used an angle grinder cut a little slot in the edges to index the parts with a painted line I put on the flywheel. You can see one on the flexible tang right at the bottom of the pic.
    #28
  9. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander only happy when sad

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    Not exactly sure of your terminology ..... 'housing cover' are the 2 pressure plates with the clutch in between?
    #29
  10. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    #30
  11. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    Should have been marked before cleanup.. too late now.
    FYI I just did one with all new parts and they are no longer marking the parts. So maybe it no longer deemed to be that critical.
    #31
  12. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    The 40nm is for the 5 bolts that hold the housing cover (ring gear) to the crank - I doubt you removed that unless you were doing the rear engine seals.
    If you tried that torque on the clutch bolts you would be :cry
    #32
  13. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander only happy when sad

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    The seals were fine so I left the flywheel attached.

    OK, now for some serious questions. So I got the tranny back on and there's no resistance when I pull the clutch lever at the bars or when I activate it by the actuator arm on the tranny.

    I'm sure (well sort of sure) I put the diaphragm and pushrod in the proper way.

    Anything else it could be before I pull the tranny off again?

    I bought the bike as a non runner because of the clutch so I've no idea if it was like this beofre.
    #33
  14. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud

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    The pushrod ends are different enough that there's likely no way you could install it backwards. The front has a longer narrow tip that tapers outward, and that taper is what contacts the corresponding tapered hole in the diaphram spring. The rear of the pushrod has a much shorter narrow end that engages inside the throwout bearing's inner race. I think installing it backwards would have the opposite effect of what you're experiencing (you'd probably never get the throwout bearing/lever assembly housing installed as the pushrod would be sticking too far aft).

    If the diaphram spring being installed backwards would move the pushrod engagement hole forward of its normal location, then that's likely the problem. A pushrod that's a bit too short (the wrong one, made for a different model?) would do the same thing if the spring is installed correctly.

    Maybe if you take off the throwout bearing/lever assembly housing and try to eyeball how far back the rear end of the pushrod extends in relation to where the throwout bearing sits when everything is assembled it'll give you an idea of where to go next.

    Of course, this is all going off memories of my R1100RS cable-actuated clutch set-up many years ago and I might be all wrong.... Good luck Dan!
    #34
  15. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    Jdub,

    does the pushrod lever install from the rear?

    or can it be installed from the front of transmission after the cable lever, bearing, and rubber boot are installed in the rear?

    I have a M97 sitting in the garage floor, I was trying to mock up parts to see what Dan is working with, I installed from the front, and there is about 1 inch of spring pressure before the pushrod, and clutch cable actuation lever are moving as one unit.
    #35
  16. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud

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    I assume you mean pushrod, because I'm not sure what the pushrod lever would be? Once the gearbox is bolted up then the pushrod can be inserted from the rear through the hollow gearbox input shaft and then the throwout bearing housing/actuating lever assembly/boot can all be installed.

    I guess you could build all of that up first and then try to install the gearbox with the pushrod already in place inside the gearbox input shaft, but with a newly installed clutch and diaphram spring I'm not sure how perfectly the front end of the pushrod is going to align with the hole in the diaphram spring the first time you bolt everything together. Perhaps the front of the pushrod could be damaged doing it that way if the diaphram spring hole is off a bit?
    #36
  17. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    I gotcha.

    so the pushrod is not installed in the trans when you install the trans over the clutch assemby, but later.

    interesting.

    Ok.

    I just bought this gear box, I didnt remove it, obviously from the silly question.
    #37
  18. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander only happy when sad

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    Later??? Really??

    I installed the pushrod first and then slid the tranny down along it .. same way the tranny was removed.

    Always fun going inside the bike without a manual to read :huh

    The diaphragh has a nice smooth hole for the tapered end of the pushrod and the other side is rough and doesn't look like it should contact anything. I'm sure that's the way I assembled it. I don't see how a too short pushrod would get in there and if one end contacts the spring and the other the throwout bearing it must be the spring is in backwards.

    Is there actual contact between the end of the pushrod and the actuator arm attached to the tranny or is part of the throwout bearing in between the two ... I'm wondering if part of the bearing is missing and hence no contact.
    #38
  19. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    thats what I was playing with Dan.

    with the tranny in the floor, pushrod installed from the front.

    you have to push rearward on the pushrod with several lbs of pressure to make it and the cable lever move as one unit.

    I am now wondering, if mine was removed via the front, as was yours, and that doesnt properly seat it all the way in the actuating apperatus in the rear.
    #39
  20. Zoef zoef

    Zoef zoef Been here awhile

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    Sir,

    Maybe can you post a photo of your pushrod. Sometimes, the end at the clutch get shortened due wear, which might not be noticeable.
    #40