So I sold my GS.... and then I went shopping....for a G/S!

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Solo Lobo, Feb 21, 2008.

  1. BeardThrone

    BeardThrone ...in bat country.

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    Give Seattle Powdercoat a try. I've dealt with them a couple of times now and they have a pretty fast turn around. I had my new crash bars done by them for like $90 and they were done a week earlier than they quoted. If you stick to a color that they have a lot of then you will get moved up in the queue.
  2. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    So, stripping to the frame for powdercoating is out. I am back on refinement of the front-end to get my G/S in top shape for the comming national rally in OR:

    OK, to re-cap where my G/S front suspension is at today:

    1999 KTM 640 WP Extremes shortened and installed - otherwise completely stock

    Tried running 5wt and 10wt fork oil, now on 7.5wt

    With all these weight I rode a number of miles varying the adjustments on the comp and re-load from nothting to max

    None of the weights of oil nor setting on the valves gave me a plush and controlled ride (like the Ohlins shock out back does). All were a compromise and right now with mid-level adjustments on the comp and pre-load with 7.5wt the front end has a cavitation (?) and gently hops while riding on pavement... the front wheel was balanced when the new TKC was installed.

    So, where are we today? The forks are in my car and headed to Konflict Motorsports to Alex who I got my custom .055 springs from for some valving adjustments, seals and such. Turn around time will be ~2 weeks.


    [​IMG]
  3. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    While the forks are out, here's my list of things to address:

    • fabricate new top headlight bucket bracket
    • replace all pannier frame bolts with larger diameter and higher grade stock
    • clean all electric connections, apply diaelectric grease
    • check points
    • install dyna booster
    • purchase and install a breather tube for the points can
    • install a new gasket in the points can to replace the missing cork
    • change the oil in the final drive and shaft
    • change brake fluid
    • check the rear brake pads and drum for wear
    [​IMG]
  4. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    New addition, while I wait for my forks...

    [​IMG]
  5. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    dang that's high, at least compared to what I pay around here. I may get special pricing, but that's still high.

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but the higher the grade the more brittle the bolt. Something worth considering.
  6. Prutser

    Prutser Long timer

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    that "cavitation" feeling is caused by stiction Solo Lobo. That might be better if they use better oil and seals.
    And i think your fork has re-bound and no pre-load adjustment.

    I like to hear how the fork is doing after the re-build.
  7. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    Good call Prutser!

    I can admit that there is/was nearly zero preload on the springs, and that was something I completely failed to consider!

    I am going to get that is the major (initial) issue I am having now. With the forks pulled I could easily push the leg down into the slider an inch or so with little pressure.

    No word back from the suspension shop yet...
  8. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    Forks are ready, secured another front half headlight/instrument shell that was already drilled for the slipstream deflector, new larger pannier frame bolts installed.

    I plan to throw it all together over the weekend and do some miles! :D
  9. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    :clap:clap:clap
  10. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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  11. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    This mornings work:


    • Re-torque steering head bearings - requires handlebar removal
    • Fix broken heated grip wire - most likely broken when doing the above
    • Find 1/2 cut heated grip wire and repair - not from above work
    • Confirm point's aren't "tiger tails" and plan to order some (found a supplier for the ones made in Brazil)
    • Install the breather/snorkel on the points can
    • Note that points can is all the way adjusted to one side - need to check timing
    • Order the top OEM spacer for the slipstream deflector as it is too far leaned back and is not allowing the headlamp shell to fully seat on the speedo
    • Replace the stupid LED's I had put into the front turn signals as one stopped working. Back to the OEM's


    [​IMG]

    Work planned:


    • Change final drive, swinger, brake and trans fluids
    • Replace one last pannier frame bolt (hard to find an M9 x 50mm)
    • Check timing
    • Ride lots of miles in prep for the national rally!
  12. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    Haven't got to any of the items above, but have been putting on the miles...

    Last season I tossed my carbs into my new ultrasonic cleaner for fun when installing new jet needles and needle jets.

    This spring I have been having popping on deceleration when the throttle is closed... don't think it was doing this last year.



    Next steps:
    • Check mixture is set correctly (Done yesterday, still popping)
    • Check timing - for tonight!
    • Check float bowls for water
    • remove and clean jets
    • spray through passages with carb cleaner
    • check point gap (I don't have the "tiger stripes installed, but do have two sets on the bench)
    Should have all that done this weekend, then more testing.
  13. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    Checked the timing last night and it had "slipped" to OT... re-set to "S" and the exhaust note is much more pleasing...

    Popping still there, guess I am tearing into the carbs tomorrow.
  14. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    Try tweaking your idle mixture a little before pulling them apart. Usually that's all it takes.
  15. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    That's what I did before checking the timing and adjusting the mix had no effect.


    [​IMG]
  16. stickerbush

    stickerbush Adventurer

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    Have you checked for exhaust leaks at all of the exhaust connections? A leak will definitely cause popping on decal.
  17. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    I did replace the exhaust gaskets with new last year... that being said I will check for any evidence of a leak today
  18. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    Everything looked pretty good in terms of the jets in both carbs, I did flush a bunch of crap out of the idle jet passage on the right side...

    [​IMG]

    My mains are 150's and the idle 40's

    And the winner is (may be)... the dumb-ass mechanic. See what I see in the picture below?

    [​IMG]

    The right needle protrudes 1mm more than the left needle

    yup, the next groove is 1mm away... (trust me on this... the battery is dead on my calipers)

    [​IMG]

    Adjusted the needle, re-measured both to make sure they are the same and reassembled and installed the carbs.

    Checked the point gap and it is fine...

    Found that both carbs float bowl corks were deformed a bit on that upper right hand corner... put in a new set of gaskets and tossed the take-offs into my break-down kit

    [​IMG]

    I'll ride to work Monday and see how the popping is now.
  19. darklight79

    darklight79 drink it , ride it , nail it

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    So what causes popping air leaks at connections ... Im running the y pipe ... no carb work yet so whats the receipe for rejetting .... Todays been a great day .. found my old r80/7 on craigslist bought it brought her home she had been sitting for 5 years drained fuel swapped a relay and a battery fixed a fuel line fired right up ... but that sa whole new thread popping and jetting a r100gs is my ??? However I am considering gs ing a /7
  20. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    The popping, at least in my experience, is from a lean condition when the throttle is closed, the bike is decelerating and running through the idle jet.

    Exhaust leaks could also be an issue, and I'll check all my connections... I did put in new gaskets in the header to collectors and collector to exhause not too long ago.

    On the way in to work today the popping was still there, but not as bad. When I put the carbs back together I set the mixture screws where they were when I pulled them out (1.5, 1.1) and readjusted them when I got to work this AM. We'll see if the popping is still there when I ride home.