So It's Started ... Dnepr Resto

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by Dan Alexander, Sep 2, 2013.

  1. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    My compressor is 5.3 scfm @ 90 psi

    1.6 hp 4 gallon.

    Would that work for a small job?

    A local has this gravity bucket for sale for $20 ... any use to me?

    [​IMG]
    #21
  2. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    2 years outside is pretty good, I'll take that. I plan or doing the Trans Lab and other looong gravel trips with it so showroom isn'y necessary but I would like it to look good at the same time or I would use it as is.

    You did a full POR 15 undercoat and then painted over it with regular paint or did you do some linex stuff as well?
    #22
  3. MotoJ

    MotoJ Mobtown Hacker

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    It's POR15'd, then primed and topcoated with another POR product called MetalMask, which is basically caliper paint. I wasn't concerned with looks as much as durability. It would definitely take a more finished type topcoat, but you'd have to have that in mind during all your undercoats and prep. As has been said, the prep is key.

    I undercoated the bottom with rattlecan bedliner from the autoparts store. Still all there. Honestly I didn't expect it to last at all- just shot it on there as an experiment. So far so good.
    #23
  4. hsblue

    hsblue Been here awhile

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    I know a guy who had his Ural sandblasted and that created all sorts of warping.
    I can't attest to soda being safe or not. Soda is needs to be flushed from the crevices very well and if you are doing it in the back yard, don't expect the grass to survive.

    A 4 gallon compressor is not big enough. Blasting uses a lot of air, continously. Air compressors aren't designed to run continuously. Sears has a chart. http://www.sears.com/ue/tool/110109_s_Air Compressor Chart.pdf

    Henry
    #24
  5. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    Thanks for the chart, my stuff is way off for a full strip. And the warning about the grass.

    Do I really need to do the inside top of the front cowl part and the trunk. The original paint is still there and not peeling or anything.

    The bottom of the interior where the water sat for ages of course is another story it's very rusty.

    Seems like blasting the whole thing is overkill?
    #25
  6. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    I checked a couple of the reno stores and found Duplicolor roll on liner.

    http://www.duplicolor.com/products/bedArmor/
    #26
  7. Abenteuerfahrer

    Abenteuerfahrer Deaf on Wheels

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    I've done the restoration dance with countless paints, chemicals, etc, etc. from boats; cars to Moto/sidecars... and can attest to first sand blast the Tub..soda blasting is too gentle! Then paint or pour POR 15 (pour on rust) into inaccessible rust areas that the blasting cannot reach.

    It's nasty stuff, wear gloves and do it in well ventilated areas. No need to paint the whole shebang just the inaccessible rust area. POR just encapsulates the rust where the tenacious paint will anchor itself strongly to the iron oxide; cures hard and prevents further moisture from accessing itself.

    Then Bondo or equivalent all dings, dents! Sand flush. Prime the entire Tub with a good primer...epoxy($$$$) is best but rattle cans($) will do alright. Coat the interior/bottom with your choice of hardn]bedliner or equivalent. Do the topsides with a good PU(Polyurethane)($$$) either hand painted or sprayed, add a protective clear coat. You'll stand out :clap

    cheers..
    #27
  8. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    As another thread instructs, I'll take all the appreciated info and filter it through my own thoughts and see what kind of a mess I can make :lol3

    I bought two nice fender lights that I was missing and they indicated they were for a Ural/Dnepr as a lot of things are listed. Seems things aren't as interchangeable as I thought.

    They don't fit.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    #28
  9. Abenteuerfahrer

    Abenteuerfahrer Deaf on Wheels

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    The nice fender lights seem to mate pretty well against the fender or it doesn't follow the curvature??. But you mean that they don't fit as per fastening holes already made? IF so, fill these holes using Bondo or equivalent BUT with a small fiberglass cloth backing behind inside the fender and saturated in Bondo or equivalent. Do this first, let dry and harden..then fill outer hole. For better strength tenacity I used West System's epoxy where I make my own pastes using their adhesive/fairing filler in which I make my own consistency. These are high strength.

    [​IMG]

    Are these fender lights from the Ural supplier? Be carefull when replacing the bulbs and refastening the brass screws to hold the lens...the lens is of a weak plastic and can easily crack when overtightened! Houising is made of medal, right?

    Same lenses of my former rig... but on a plastic wider fender..

    [​IMG]


    cheers...
    #29
  10. RomaDakota

    RomaDakota Illuminatus!

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    Odd bolt pattern for a Dnepr/KMZ lamp. Doesn't look like the modern (past 30+ years, the type in your photo) style or the K750 style. I know there is another type however it is more rare.

    BTW, the wheel is not Dnepr/KMZ - looks Chinese.
    #30
  11. RomaDakota

    RomaDakota Illuminatus!

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  12. RomaDakota

    RomaDakota Illuminatus!

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    Forget what I said above. I now think these are standard later model type.
    Ural mounts must be different although the lenses are the same.
    Picture from internet -
    [​IMG]
    #32
  13. jphii

    jphii OK, now what?

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    If you are seriously thinking about rhinoliner you need to look at this: https://www.dipyourcar.com/ Forget sand blasting and just spray it. For $250 you're done in a day.
    #33
  14. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    I liked that idea but I bought a can and sprayed some metal brackets and didn't like the durability, but I only tried two coats, so I peeled the stuff off and painted instead.
    #34
  15. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    My fender is more rounded like that one in the pic and the lights are for a flatter fender. My fender is dinged up so I'm wondering if one of the new flatter fenders will fit, then I'll have the proper lights.
    #35
  16. Abenteuerfahrer

    Abenteuerfahrer Deaf on Wheels

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    Hmmnn...for better surface adhension; rust removal, etc. sandblasting is still the best option for a greater long lasting durable finish.

    This was mentioned in "Dipyourcar":

    I have a bare metal, or primered surface, can I dip it?

    Yes, there are several cases of people dipping bare metal to seal out moisture, and dipping over primer and both are still peelable. The biggest concern with bare metal is that there aren't any fingerprints or moisture trapped under the dip, to ensure no surface rust.


    In other words, Rust is moisture !! Moisture creates Rust... remove it! Don't cover and trap it!


    cheers..
    #36
  17. jphii

    jphii OK, now what?

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    It is easy enough to get rid of moisture before coating.
    #37
  18. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    Here's a message I got from these guys

    http://www.sodablastquebec.ca/en/sodablast-applications/auto-restauration/


    Hi Daniel,
    We do not recommend sand because it's too strong for your project but we have multiple media that will give better results without damaging. Our price for blasting your sidecar would be 350$ and if you want, we could put 2 coatings of etching primer for 150$.
    Thanks



    Pretty expensive!
    #38
  19. jbcaddy

    jbcaddy Long timer

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    you might check to see if anyone in your area does pickup bed spray on liners. they might at least give you a few ideas. I'm going the DIY style on mine, but I do have a compressor that can do soda blasting. I'll do the bottom outside and inside with rattle can undercoating and paint the rest.
    #39
  20. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    That's the line I'm going to take. $500 is waaaay to much for my blood.

    I know some guys in Ottawa who work on big trucks and they weld and have a large compressor.

    I'm doing a roof on one of their houses so I'll drive the tub up there one day, blast it with soda or glass or whatever and then weld whatever needs it.

    The local auto/farm store has these for abrasives .... what do you guys think would work best??

    http://www.princessauto.com/pal/Abrasives/1000-320-415-659-182.c

    along with one of these siphon fed containers?

    http://www.princessauto.com/pal/Siphon-Blasters/5-Gallon-Siphon-Fed-Abrasive-Blaster/8012660.p
    #40