So we've all heard/seen the 650 xchallenge...let's see your XCOUNTRY!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Olas, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling Long timer

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    That's interesting. Do you think all unifilter stuff is bad or is there something particular about this set of circumstances that makes it bad?
  2. DESERT SCORPION

    DESERT SCORPION SINGLE TRACK

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    I believe that I used the super ecologically friendly 'No Toil' (water soluble) filter oil the last time I serviced the filter. I do remember reading that its use has been suspected for softening up the glue joints of foam filters. Exactly the opposite has happened here: The glue joints are fine, but the foam is completely decomposed.
  3. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

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    The oil might be incompatible with the foam polymer. I had one fail from the spring wearing a hole in it.

    If only Hanz and Franz had designed the air box to use a common size filter!
  4. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    I use Twin Air foam filters. No problems here.
  5. motorrat

    motorrat Been here awhile

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    FAQ's
    Filter Cleaning
    “With what should I clean my filter?”

    The preferred product for cleaning is mineral turpentine (“turps”).It is the only safe solvent for use in cleaning polyurethane foam.All other solvents will have some detrimental effect on the foam structure over a period of time.


    As an alternative, Unifilter’s “Foam Filter Cleaner” solution is a detergent-based wash designed to be used where mineral turps is either unavailable or inconvenient to use.As turps is a solvent it should not be carried within a vehicle.“Foam Filter Cleaner” is designed therefore for use when the customer needs to carry out air filter servicing enroute.


    “Can I use petrol, gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel, methylated spirits etc to clean my filter?”

    All of these products will have some greater or lesser detrimental effect on the polyurethane foam over time and therefore should not be used.


    “Should I wash out the foam with soap and water after cleaning with mineral turps?”

    No! – this action is completely unnecessary.After cleaning with mineral turps pad the foam dry with an absorbent cloth.Any further residue will evaporate within minutes.Should the foam be immersed in water, then if every trace of moisture is not removed prior to re-oiling it will be trapped within the foam by the oil and cause long-term damage to the foam’s structure.


    Filter Oiling



    “Can I use any oil to re-oil my Unifilter?”

    No! - The best oil for foam air filters is a mineral-based oil. Unlike synthetic oil, mineral-based oil will never dry out. Asynthetic oil may be good for inside an engine, but when used on a filter in dusty conditions the oil will dry when it comes into contact with dust. Once the dust comes into contact with a synthetic-based foam filter oil, a dry crust will form on the surface of the filter allowing more dust to pass through the filter and into the engine. Unlike a synthetic-based oil however, a mineral-based oil will soak through the dust and continue to catch new dust thus protecting the engine.


    Unifilter’s “Filter Fix” oil has been specially formulated for this sole purpose.It has a balanced consistency which allows the oil to penetrate the entire foam yet not “drain” from the foam whilst in situ.In addition, it contains special “tackifier” agents to enhance the dust holding characteristics of the oil.


    “Are there any other filter oil brands I can use?”

    Yes! – Unifilter recommends the use of either Castrol or Belray brand filter oil where “Filter Fix” is unavailable.


    “Can I use K&N’s cotton grid air filter treatment on my Unifilter?

    No! – the K&N and Unifilter product characteristics are incompatible.


    “Can I use a spray-on oil treatment for my Unifilter?”

    These are not recommended.Whilst spray-on treatments may be easy and convenient to apply, the propellants used to make the product spray-able will shorten the life of the foam.


    “What is the best way to evenly distribute oil throughout the filter?”

    When possible, always warm “Filter Fix” before use.The best way to do this is to stand the “Filter Fix” bottle in warm/hot water as you would with a baby’s bottle. This effectively reduces the oil's viscosity and makes it easier for it to saturate the foam.


    Pour a quantity of oil into a suitable container (a used ice cream container is ideal) and work oil through to thoroughly saturate the foam.As a less messy alternative, place oil and foam into a seal-able “zip-loc” bag.Manipulate the bag to ensure oil is worked well through the foam.Snip a bottom corner from the bag and squeeze leftover oil back into its bottle for future use.


    Fold and squeeze the foam to remove any residual oil.It is recommended to then wrap the foam in an absorbent cloth a squeeze again.You can never remove too much oil using this method.The correct amount of oil in the foam is when pinching by hand will “just” produce a small amount of residual oil on your fingers.
    Dao1 likes this.
  6. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    Yeah, obviously the oil and age is deteriorating the foam.

    I'm through with foam filters. I'll go with K&N.

    If you use foam filters, inspect them occasionally and replace them if they feel too soft or saggy.
  7. wolfie10110

    wolfie10110 n00b

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    Guys, has anyone experienced a milky, sticky residue around the top of the oil filler opening? I checked my oil recently and had this gunk present, also my coolant was low. I suspected some sort of coolant leak - I had my local shop do tests and they couldn't find anything wrong, all fluids have now been flushed and replaced, and bike is running well except stalls when cold. (I have checked the idle actuator - was totally clean) Bike has 5K miles on Odo. Shop said that the gunk may have been due to condensation over winter (I rode all winter in NY) or a bad oil reaction from the previous oil change. I'm going to keep a close eye on this and see if it recurs. Thoughts?
    blaster11 likes this.
  8. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Don't worry about it. They can do that in winter. The metal of the oil tank is fairly thin and the hot oil cools down quickly after riding and condesation forms in the oil tank.Occurs mostly on the somewhat shorter rides. I had it on mine too when riding to work in winter (10 miles one way)
    Zeus99 and keepshoveling like this.
  9. wolfie10110

    wolfie10110 n00b

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    Thanks, that's reassuring! My commute to work was only 5 miles so that was probably it. How about the cold stalling, it's a royal PITA! Shop changed the plugs to iridiums, actuator was clean, air filter good.
  10. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool

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    Check to see that the coolant weep hole at the front of the cover is clear of debris that can hide a coolant leak. Check your oil when hot to see if it is a coolant leak versus condensation in the oil tank.
    keepshoveling likes this.
  11. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Always start without using the throttle. If you haven't you might want to do a reset.
  12. wolfie10110

    wolfie10110 n00b

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    I never start with throttle applied. What is the reset?
  13. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Disconnect battery for 10 minutes, reconnect, start bike, let run until fan comes on, leave running until fan shuts off, turn off ignition. Done
    keepshoveling likes this.
  14. motorrat

    motorrat Been here awhile

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    And this one;
    contact on (don`t start) 3 times full throttle contact off.
    Restart your engine

    After cleaning the IA I also had a stalling bike when cold, the above did the trick
  15. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    Throttle Reset Procedure - not

    Try it if it makes you feel good but there is no documentation that such a "reset" procedure is valid. It's been researched and the subject of past threads. I too have searched my factory manual and found nothing about such a reset procedure. There IS "learning" factor built into the bike's computer but it does not require such a throttle reset procedure.

    Quote from the factory manual
    TPS replacement
    Section
    13 63 000

    D:\Datas\Reprom\BMW-Motorrad/imgs/icon/bullet.gif Install the throttle-valve potentiometer.

    D:\Datas\Reprom\BMW-Motorrad\SYMB\KG\MODELLE\00\hinweis.gif



    Note

    There is no need to reset the throttle-valve potentiometer after assembly (self-teaching system).


    .
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  16. MJS

    MJS Long timer

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    I'll throw out another comment on the air filter issue. No-toil is alcohol based and is not compatible with most foam filters. The alcohol will eat the foam. I learned this the hard way. That is what happened to the filter in the pictures above. I prefer to use Maxima FFT but have good results with BelRay. Motul and Uni are also fine. If in doubt use the mfg recommended oil. Foam filters have been around a long time, bio friendly oils not so much.
    keepshoveling likes this.
  17. DESERT SCORPION

    DESERT SCORPION SINGLE TRACK

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    Thanks, I'll heed your advice. Still I am going with the OEM paper filter for now, 'cause I have a new unused one on the shelf.
  18. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    A sort of (oiled) pre-filter might not be a bad idea if you ride a lot in dusty conditions.
    Dust/sand/dirt is collected between the folds of the paper and is shaken until it is ground down finer so it can go through the OEM paper filter.
    keepshoveling likes this.
  19. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling Long timer

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    I don't see why you couldn't run the paper filter and an oiled unifilter pre filter (or just a piece of foam as a prefilter).
    blaster11 and Dutchgit like this.
  20. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    Many of the K&N filters come with a foam insert to go inside the pleated cotton.