Sold FJR, bought DL1000. Let the farrrrkles begin!

Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by superkram, Jun 21, 2013.

  1. superkram

    superkram Church parking lot rider

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    Oddometer:
    172
    Location:
    Central FL
    So. Sold my FJR to an inmate (Timan) who gave me his '06 DL1000 plus cash. Nice guy, was glad to see it go to a good home. So now, I have a new toy! Like all new toys, things must be tinkered and futzed with until it becomes "yours"

    First pic: The DL1K in NC as Timan owned it
    -Cee Bailey screen
    -Shad pannier racks
    -Power Commander V
    -Superbrace fork brace
    -Givi top mount
    -Givi bars, etc
    [​IMG]

    Second pic: My driveway 2 days after Timan brought it down to FL
    -removed Cee Bailey for stock screen
    -rotated stock bars forward
    -added iPhone5 RAM mount
    -hung my required "safety turtle" from Fiji (long story, don't ask)
    -made secure spot for toll transponder under windscreen
    (some leftover 3/4" metal banding between Madstad mounting bolts)
    [​IMG]

    Went and registered, insured, and titled it. Showed up at work and went on an eBay buying binge. I know, I'm supposed to save money and be responsible, but I need to enjoy this bike!

    Today's eBay purchases: :D
    $80 Givi E45 knockoff - I had a 39L Bestem T-929 on a previous DL650 and was happy with it. The 42L T-982 should be fine as well, I'll use the included MonoKey-style mounting rack and remove the current Givi MonoKey top rack
    Moose CR Hi handlebars - I forgot how much I hate the sweep-back on the stock bars of pretty much every bike I've ever ridden. I'm 5'11 with a 31" inseam, but have a long torso with wide shoulders and T-Rex arms. The wide shoulders mean my arms are spread further out, which causes the normal width & sweep-back of most bikes to be painful after a while. Plus, I like a slightly more leaned forward feel in the turns.
    Silver-whitey Reflective Wheel Tape - Just about every bike looks awesome with reflective wheel tape. Helps break up the monotony of black wheels and black tires.

    Should look good with the upcoming rattlecan satin black paint job!
    Don't worry, I've done this several times with great results:

    2007 DL650 (previously bright bass-boat blue... :puke1)
    [​IMG]

    And the '01 FZ1 that came after that... (also previously bright Yama blue)
    [​IMG]


    Now...the DL1K only has 15K on it, but the clutch shudders and the chain feels feels a little off, so obviously the rear spacer wasn't changed out for a 2mm spacer mod. Went ahead with the DL1000 Rear Wheel Spacer Exchange program from Richland Rick, who's now running orders directly from his site at AdventureTech instead of through the VSRI forum.

    And just because I'm due for a new helmet anyway, I sprung for a new black Shoei Qwest for $330 with free 2-day shipping. Lots of great reviews, and my 3-year old Shoei RF1000 already has 35K miles worth of humid FL sweat, occasional sneezing fit boogers, springtime love bugs, etc. Picked up a mirrored gold CW-1 visor for $20 shipped too.

    Busy day for me and my farkles! This weekend, will start sanding down the bedliner currently on the front panels of the DL1000 and hopefully get a few decent satin coats down before the farkles start arriving.

    Am all ears for ideas from inmates! Would like to:
    - switch to a 530 chain with 16/43 sprockets
    - improve braking feel (SV1000 front calipers with SVRacing kit?)
    - replace the new replacement Trailwing tires with PR3 front & back
    - upgrade front/rear suspension (looking at Daugherty, among others)

    After this, I'm going to need help with the PC-V that's currently on it. Is there a way to find out what mapping it currently has? I'm tempted to just take it out and go with a Holeshot exhaust/TFI setup.
    #1
  2. pluric

    pluric Gimpy Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2006
    Oddometer:
    17,574
    Location:
    Salt Lake
    That's subjective.:wink:
    #2
  3. superkram

    superkram Church parking lot rider

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    Oddometer:
    172
    Location:
    Central FL
    As any rider knows, stopping for tolls and fumbling for change is a bigger PITA than in a cage. It's also hard to find a place to secure your toll transponder from targets of opportunity.

    And frankly, sometimes suction cups or velcro just won't cut it on a bike. I've lost one suction-cupped SunPass transponder in the middle of a tropical downpour (don't ask) and always feel leery about leaving transponders unprotected in parking garages and downtown streets.

    My solution on the DL1000 was to secure my SunPass transponder with a leftover piece of metal band between the mounting bolts of the Madstad bracket shown below. Very self explanatory, just unbolt the windscreen, cut your metal band to fit, and re-assemble using the regular bolts of your Madstad bracket.

    Head-on view:
    [​IMG]

    Right (starboard) bracket:
    [​IMG]

    Left (port) bracket:
    [​IMG]

    Top view:
    [​IMG]

    Normal view standing near the Vee:
    [​IMG]

    The SunPass transponder is still easily visible beneath a clear windscreen, but I plan to replace the factory windscreen with a tinted shorty version soon. Even if you use a clear windscreen, it would still take a dedicated thief 2-3 minutes to remove the windscreen and metal bracket to reach the transponder. You can replace the bracket screws with optional Torx bits for an added bit of security.

    Hope this simple mod helps fellow riders who use EZ-Pass or SunPass toll transponders on their Madstad brackets!
    #3
  4. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2011
    Oddometer:
    4,233
    Location:
    Richmond, Ohio
    Looks good so far.

    How do you like it compared to the FJR? Is it as good of a passenger carrying bike?

    Seems like every time I pull my FJR into a campsite or something I'm ready to sell it for something lighter, but every time I get on the road again I decide to keep it. I change my mind daily sometimes about it. :lol3 Great bike though, can't complain too much.
    #4
  5. superkram

    superkram Church parking lot rider

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    Oddometer:
    172
    Location:
    Central FL
    I'm the same way. The DL1000 brakes aren't on the same level with the FJR or FZ1 brakes. The DL1000 is definitely lighter than the FJR, but not so light that it blows me around like my previous 1st gen FZ1 in crosswinds. DL1000 shifting (1st-2nd, 2nd-3rd) isn't smooth out of the box like the FJR, 1st FZ1, or DL650. I just got the 2mm rear-wheel spacer mod in the mail from Richland Rick, so hopefully we'll see an improvement there.

    Haven't had any passengers yet on the DL1000, but the DL650 I had before wasn't bad 2-up. The FJR is definitely nicer for long rides, whether 1-up or 2-up. I haven't met a better long-mile bike on the slab yet, and am praying I don't regret giving this up, since I easily rack up 8-10K+ miles/yr on the slab in FL, just from commuting or weekend trips from Orlando to Tampa or Miami where you just want to make the miles to your destination, then enjoy the local riding.

    I wanted a lighter bike like the DL1K because a lot of times I wanted to do errands, ride to downtown events with scarce parking, or short non-highway rides, and sometimes just didn't feel like it with the FJR's heft.

    We'll see how it goes! I'm looking forward to the results of the 2mm rear-wheel spacer mod.
    #5
  6. danketchpel

    danketchpel Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,654
    Location:
    Camarillo, CA
    I don't think you will see any change in shifting with the spacer mod.

    I noticed an improvement in shifting when I switched to 20w-50 Mobile 1 MC oil. The 10w-40 isn't great for smooth shifting.

    Changing the handlebars on the Vee is a must do. I went with ROX risers and Pro Taper ATV mid height 7/8" bars with a crossbar, love the setup, and it got rid of the vibes in the bars.

    SS lines and good pads help on the brakes. If you want more front brakes there's an easy 4 piston conversion available, you just have to pick up a set of used calipers.

    I went 2+ teeth on the rear sprocket and think it's perfect gearing. I did the upgrade to 530 chain when I rechained. Use the front sprocket from the VL1000 which comes stock with 530. I have a JT rear sprocket.

    Getting a good map in the power commander and a good TB sync will work wonders for smoothness and power, but don't expect good mpg. I average ~37 mpg.

    My wife & I have ridden 2 up on both the Vee and FJR, my wife likes the Vee better, it has very good passenger seating.

    The factory center stand is nice to have.
    #6
  7. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2011
    Oddometer:
    4,233
    Location:
    Richmond, Ohio
    Sounds good, thanks a lot. I might have to pull the trigger on one. Guess I'll take some good fjr pictures and throw it in the flea market, see what happens.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
    #7
  8. roll_it_on

    roll_it_on Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    77
    Location:
    Boise Idaho
    At 15K miles I would have the clutch basket redone by Terry Hinkle at http://www.werksparts.com/WERKS_Parts.php My son's DL1000 with 19K miles on was transformed (smoothness) throughout the rpm range by having the clutch basket upgraded. Best mod from an engine standpoint IMO
    #8
  9. superkram

    superkram Church parking lot rider

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    Oddometer:
    172
    Location:
    Central FL
    To roll_it_on: What year was your son's DL1000?

    I'm definitely interested in the Werks clutch basket. I thought all 2005+ Vees had the improved clutch basket. Mine definitely doesn't have good low-RPM manners, which surprised me because I'd heard from plenty of Vee owners how easy it was to slowly let the clutch out and let the bike "walk" itself in traffic. Even my DL650 and 1st gen FZ1 had no problem doing that (obviously, the big FJR did this easily too) and neither of them vibrated as much as the Vee does.

    How much work is it to remove/install a new clutch basket? Is it recommended to use 20W50 with a Werks basket? Advice appreciated.
    #9
  10. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Chief Mansplainer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,635
    Location:
    Lexington, KY
    Do:

    • Four piston brakes
    • Fork brace
    • Fork gaiters

    • Eastern Beaver headlight relays
    • Mosfet R/R

    • Decent horns (w/ relay)

    • Seat actually designed for human beings
    • Scrap the stock mirrors for something that cuts the air cleanly
    • Address the windshield buffeting
    Take a deep breath and start thinking about optional stuff.
    #10
  11. Jamie Z

    Jamie Z Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,845
    Location:
    on Walkabout
    Though I haven't done all those things, that's an excellent list. A new owner shouldn't hesitate to do all those things and the bike will be well sorted from the start.

    Jamie
    #11
  12. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Chief Mansplainer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,635
    Location:
    Lexington, KY
    I forgot to mention the center stand - ahhh... looks like you've already got it handled.
    #12
  13. roll_it_on

    roll_it_on Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    77
    Location:
    Boise Idaho
    His is a 2006. In 2003 they did a minor upgrade to the basket and since that they all have the same upgraded part number but it does not fix the issues that create the vibration/chudder. All years have the chudder possibility as they get a few miles on them. Pretty bad design which is fixed with the upgrade. If I bough another Vstrom it is the first thing I would do with it as it makes using the low rpm very nice. As to the work it is not to bad if you are so inclined and have the tools. There are some good step by step write ups on the web with a search but here is one
    http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=7089.0

    I don't think the oil weight makes much differences just use what is recommended.
    #13
  14. jnor

    jnor Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    152
    Location:
    Newark,Ohio
    I currently have a DL1000, and have owned a FJR. We bought the FJR for a 2up bike. It never really worked out for us. My wife never felt comfortable on it, neither did I. She had her own bike, but wanted to ride 2up some. (i hate 2up riding on anything) I put 15K on it in 18 months (mostly solo) but never really "connected" with the FJR, it was top heavy, heavy in general, and never liked the ergo's. Great engine, and handling once you got moving.

    We went without a bike for 2up riding for a few years, then my wife decided not to ride anymore...The Vstrom was a good "compromise" for me anyway (she was talking about Goldwings, cruisers etc.) It is a much better 2up bike for us anyway, she says it's the most comfortable for her we have had. The Vstrom will never make my favorite list, but its good for why we bought it. I also have owned Gen 1 FZ1's, and they are right at the top of my favorite's list with the Versys.
    #14
  15. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Chief Mansplainer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,635
    Location:
    Lexington, KY
    Being seen by cagers is a good thing so consider a headlight modulator for your high beams. I use the one from Comagination and it's saved my bacon more than once. I also use a brake light modulator with an auxiliary brake light. The brake light modulator is also from Comagination and the aux brake light is a Whelen LIN3 red LED light head... a real attention-getter.

    [​IMG]

    My fork seals went south at about 8000 miles - dried bug guts on the fork tubes. There is, however, a pretty low-tech fix for that... truck shock gaiters cut down to protect the fork tubes. Installing them requires dropping the stanchions out of the triple trees but that's a good excuse to play with spring rates and change your fork oil.

    [​IMG]

    If you like to tinker you've chosen the right bike. :lol3
    #15
  16. 'Rett Butler

    'Rett Butler Happily Married

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,070
    Location:
    Phoenix-Sedona-Flagstaff-Crested Butte
    I just bought an old DL1000 for the same reason. My wife rides her own bikes but there are times we want to go 2-up to save gas (economics) or to make better time (I drive a bit faster on dirt, even 2-up). Plus...I'm losing faith in BMW reliability with each new model year.

    I'm frantically changing out sprockets, seals, tires and handlebar and adding luggage for a trip to Colorado next week.
    #16
  17. superkram

    superkram Church parking lot rider

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    Oddometer:
    172
    Location:
    Central FL
    Sorry for the lack of follow-up! I was busy moving & working on a friend's Wrangler. Drove his Wrangler from FL up to TN to get my 4Runner back, and was wistfully looking at all the beautiful mountain roads without a motorcycle to take 'em on. Grrr.

    Anyway, pics coming Friday! Have finished the following mods:

    - T-982 top box (Givi E46 knockoff from eBay)
    - Moose Racing CR Hi handlebars
    - Moose Racing shorty windscreen
    - reflective rim tape for looks & visibility
    - 2mm rear wheel spacer mod (aligns rear chain sprocket with front)

    Next up is paint.
    I'll remove the gas tank, front fender, and all plastic body panels and start prepping those for paint. I'll probably go with rattlecans of Rustoleum Black Metallic and a high gloss clearcoat. Been down this road before using satin Rustoleum with good results. Curious how it'll turn out with metallic and a glossy clearcoat on top.

    Does anyone have good gas-resistant clearcoat recommendations?

    Eager to keep progress going!
    #17
  18. 'Rett Butler

    'Rett Butler Happily Married

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,070
    Location:
    Phoenix-Sedona-Flagstaff-Crested Butte
    I want mine painted (covered) with Rhino Lining. It's chemical resistant.

    Might be hard to do where body panels intersect without careful masking.
    #18
  19. superkram

    superkram Church parking lot rider

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2010
    Oddometer:
    172
    Location:
    Central FL
    As promised, pictures of the current upgrades:

    The DL1000 as it sits now with new windscreen, handlebars, & luggage:
    [​IMG]

    Front view of Moose Racing tinted shorty screen:
    [​IMG]

    Cockpit view of shorty screen + Moose Racing CR Hi handlebars:
    [​IMG]

    T-982 top box (42L knockoff of Givi E45 Monokey):

    Rear view. It mounted right onto the existing Givi Monokey top box mount. Was really surprised (in a good way) as I didn't have to do any of the fiddling or grinding warned about in the eBay ad for the T-982.
    [​IMG]

    Side view. You can see I peeled off the silver stripes that originally came with the T-982 case. I may cut & fit some reflective material later, but was pleased with the appearance & function for now.
    [​IMG]

    Another view:
    [​IMG]

    Observations:

    Handlebars:
    The new handlebars made a huge difference for me. I'm a shade under 6'0 and have wide shoulders, long torso, and short arms (think Mike Tyson, NFL running back, OK OK I'm dreaming) so I need wide handlebars with very little sweep rearward. My wrists were much happier (as much I loved my FJR, this was something I never fully got right) and I was physically able to lean myself further into corners to feel more at one with the bike during turns.

    Oddly enough, after 18 months of riding an FJR and 1st-gen FZ1 without a DL in the stable, my body wanted a slightly more leaned-forward position on the DL1K. The Moose CR Hi bars allowed me to have that upright, yet slightly forward-canted FZ1/FJR feeling, and I haven't felt the need or desire for barbacks/risers yet. We'll see with more miles, but I'm already very VERY happy with the wrist feel. :clap

    Givi E45 knockoff T-982 top box:
    Fits great, holds my stuff with ease. 100% waterproof after 20 minutes of highway riding through an unavoidable Florida afternoon downpour. Mounts on and off the Givi top box mount with ease. No weird jiggles or adjustments to make it fit. Am very pleasantly surprised, and would gladly recommend to anyone.

    Seeing how cheap the T-982 top boxes are, I'm now curious how it might work as a side case. If any riders with Givi Monokey side cases want to test how it fits, please give me a buzz. I'd be more than happy to ride somewhere and meet up for a test fitting/ride. :freaky In the name of science, of course.

    Moose tinted shorty:
    Not much to report. I haven't had much seat time on the highway with the screen yet. I personally prefer short/low screens for increased airflow here in hot, humid FL. Also, so wind noise has never been an issue for me. I'm deaf, use sign language, and never wear my hearing aid inside my helmet. Will ride more and report how it feels with various types of wind/buffeting after a while.

    2mm rear spacer mod:
    Not enough miles to report the effect, but I can feel a very slight reduction in chain vibration/resistance on the highway. I have no idea if it's quieter (see being deaf above) but can pinpoint vibrations better than most people. It *feels* slightly smoother. We'll see if it helps make the chain last 15K miles.
    #19
  20. precarious

    precarious Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    558
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    4-pot calipers make a huge difference. Combined with SS lines, the Strom actually brakes really well.

    The Progressive 465 shock is a great upgrade despite being inexpensive. The stock suspension is way too soft.

    The National Cycle VStream windshield is awesome. With the Mad Stad bracket, it can be really tall or really short, and it eliminated all of my helmet buffeting.

    Lots of opinions on seats. I loved my Sargent.

    Why do you want to swap chain sizes? The 530 is heavier and the Strom doesn't really need it. As far as longevity, I got over 40K out of a DID chain. Even at that mileage, the only reason I had to replace it was it had a couple of kinks from where salt had gotten into it and corroded the links a bit.

    You may not want to change top synthetic oil with 15k on it; experiences vary, but I switched to syn at about that point and it started leaking oil out of every rubber seal in the engine. Pain in the ass. I tried it again later on, and it started weeping out of the clutch pushrod seal. Screw it, I stuck with dino. The oil was still coming out clean at 90k miles.

    Good luck with whatever you do.
    #20