Sold my GSA and am back on a KLR !!!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GAS GUY, Sep 23, 2012.

  1. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    Re-greasing linkage bearings is a good annual service. Probably last forever as long as the bearings have grease! :thumb

    Don't know about the KLR but my DR650 really responded GREAT to opening the air box up. Also added a Dyno Jet needle which allowed tunability (stock needle is fixed). Huge difference in throttle response ... and still gets 50 MPG. Just a slightly richer main jet is all that's required. That DR loves L E A N ! KLR is probably similar. Let her breath, run her LEAN. They can handle it and your MPG will be fantastic ... and it will still run well up over 10,000 ft.

    (Hey, nice Blue Merrell Aussie there! I had a red years ago!)
  2. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    Uncle Jimmy,
    The subframe bolt is just a popular mod, especially for big guys and touring load.

    Yes, I am pretty much going through the whole bike, mostly maintenance and small mods as most of the big mods are already done.As a Mechanic by trade, I am anal about maintenance and try to limit chances of any problems during riding season.Also, it helps me during the winter months having somewhat of a project.

    I would love to get down there, but with work, and family, it really limits my mobility right now.But, sooner or later I will.Now that you got that sweet, lightweight 250L, you have at least another 20 years of riding left in you !!
  3. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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    Doesn't look like a lot of work to me; looks like some curiosity satisfied and a bit of entertainment.

    No KLR really "needs" this stuff *, but knowing what has been done before and knowing it's all clean for a new season is peace of mind for some of us (and unwelcome work for others). I think mine runs better with the KLX needle and whatever jet I eventually chose. (I'll open it up later this month and look -- just because.)

    *Some riders will need the subframe bolts for heavier loads or harder landings.
  4. Byork

    Byork Novice

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    I just did the subframe bolts on my bike last week simply because I was already ordering parts from HT and it was $5 (only 2 bolts need replaced on '08+). Took about 3 minutes. I don't usually have a heavy load, but after seeing pictures of bikes that failed, I don't ever want to be in that situation :huh
  5. Murphy Slaw

    Murphy Slaw Long timer

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    I read about this mod being done a lot, but have never read about them actually breaking. This would seem to be a major liability for the big "K" if they do indeed break off during travel. Does it happen often, or is it just preventive?

    Great thread, by the way.
  6. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    Yes, it does happen occasionally.

    I think the problem starts as a loose bolt and then the soft bolt breaks once movement starts occurring.

    So, if you make sure the 4 bolts never loosen there should not be a problem.

    By installing the one long bolt and nut through the upper mounting in place of the 2 individual small bolts it just pretty much makes it bulletproof.

    It is also easier removing the rear subframe because you can get it ready to remove and then reach over and pull the long through bolt last.
  7. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    I don't think there is a difference in the mod between the Gen 1 & Gen 2 bikes.

    You did the bolt upgrade, which is only a harder grade bolt.If they ever loosen they could still break.

    The more involved mod is drilling through the 2 upper bolts and installing 1 long bolt and nut.

    The Gen 2 bike did get bigger upper bolts from the factory,but I still prefer the drill through for piece of mind and don't have to worry about them loosening up.
  8. Byork

    Byork Novice

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    Right. I would still like the upper thru bolt. I'm happy my bike is blue, matches all the locktite I've been using :wink:
  9. wheatwhacker

    wheatwhacker It's raining here

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    Congrats on the KLR.
    The KLR is a lifestyle choice. Less is more, simplicity = less worries.
    Travel more, stay longer.
    There are 2 differences between your BMW and the KLR. $10,000 AND 20MPH
  10. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

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    ... and about 100 lbs! :rayof
  11. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    I added 4 one inch holes with uni foam filters in them on top the airbox where the L mod is usually cut out, and the snorkel is already removed from the factory inlet.

    That is all I am going to do for now because I am going to run a Leo Vince with the quiet insert in it.

    Later if I run a more open exhaust, then I can always add more.


    [​IMG]
  12. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    After careful inspection I don't like the factory box to boot connection.

    The boot doesn't fit that well and can easily develop a gap to introduce dirt into the engine, especially after removal of subframe and or airbox if you are not paying close attention.

    So I put a nice thick bead of High performance RTV silicone sealer around it to bond the two together and seal it up.


    [​IMG]
  13. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    Before installing the new rear tire, I wanted to check the rear wheel for runout and at least snug up the spokes.

    [​IMG]

    The wheel only had about .010" run out horizontally and vertically, which I am more than happy with, so I went around and equally tightened the spokes in very small increments at a time until they all rang a nice tune when I played them with a 10 mm wrench.

    After tightening the spokes I rechecked the wheel for trueness with the dial indicator.

    Sorry, the picture went sideways on me.
  14. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    Then I put the wheel assembly on jack stands and Static balanced it.

    The PO must have put dynabeads in the tubes because I can feel them rolling around in there.I have never used them but I guess I will leave them in.

    [​IMG]
  15. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    I originally planned on running more agressive tires, but the bike came with a brand new set of Michelin Anakee 2's, so I am going to run these this year.

    [​IMG]

    I have used original Anakee's on a couple of GS's and thought they were pretty good all around tires.

    Actually, since this is my primary (do it all) bike now, this tire may be a good fit.
  16. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    I figured I may as well pack some Maxima water proof grease in the steering head bearings also.

    [​IMG]
  17. Murphy Slaw

    Murphy Slaw Long timer

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    Yer an animal.....

    :D
  18. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    While I had the front apart for the steering head bearing regrease, I dumped the old fluid from the forks and put some fresh Belray 10 weight in that I had on the shelf.

    The old fork fluid was very dark and broke down.

    While I was in there I noted the Race Tech Gold valve settings with red springs and 2 and 1/2 turns preload.

    If I remember correctly those are the base settings and the same that I ran on my 2003 Klr a few years back and was happy with those settings.

    The springs appear to be progressive with 22 1/2" length and .200 wire diameter and tighter coils at the top.

    The pvc spacer is 2 3/4" long , and spring preload is 1/2".
  19. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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    While removing the front wheel assembly, I noticed that not only were the alignment tabs on the fork and speedo housing misaligned but the speedo drive ring internally was not aligned to the tabs on the hub of the wheel by the PO and it bent it up and left a small crack on the hub of the wheel.

    That explains why the speedometer needle was jumping around at higher speeds, it was probably slipping.

    [​IMG]
  20. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

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