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Discussion in 'Equipment' started by BlueLghtning, Oct 24, 2008.
you cable dream heaven...........
Looks like the point of this thread went right over your head.
We were looking for these 10 cent connectors for cost.
Sure we can buy the powerlet\cigarette adaptable plugs for $15 through them, or buy them direct from Hella at a little under a buck a pop. We could spend $30 for their waterproof cigarette lighter, or buy them from a marine supply store for $2.
One issue to be aware of when purchasing coax barrel jacks and plugs is that most are only rated to 5A. This includes SwitchCraft, Radio Shack and others.
Gerbing seems to cheat a bit rating their 5.5mm x 2.5mm barrel jacks and plugs to 15A.
3BR Powersports has a mounting bracket for their barrel jacks that will work with Gerbing socket pigtails.
They also have a panel mount but it is only rated to 7.5A
Does anyone have the measurements for the Gerbings barrel connectors?
With 4 bikes to wire up, plus making a Battery Tender SAE to Gerbings female connector, it would be nice to update this thread with a source.
Resurrecting this thread as I have ordered a panel mount receptacle that should fit the heated gear COAX connector on my 'troller. Currently I have a powerlet to coax adapter that i plug into my controller, that then plugs into the cable on my heated Ttriumph vest (a re-branded EXO). I would like to reduce the number of connectors by plugging the controller directly to a receptacle on the bike rather than the extra adapter cable.
I have ordered what I believe to be the correct jack from Newark along with a cap that fits the outlet for waterproofing when not in use. The jack I ordered has a small o-ring gasket that should allow for the jack to be used in the rain. I will post up the results once i get the parts in.
Be sure to check the current rating of your barrel jack. Most are 5.0A. We had to go to the ends of the earth to find a 7.5A rated jack. This is enough for gloves and vest but not a full heated getup.
Gerbing found out the hard way that not just any barrel set will work. I read where their recall of 9000 jackets was related to connectors overheating and burning the wearer.:eek1
BTW - we have a slick panel mount version with a built in cap.
Moreover, we make mating barrel cables that provide an all weather seal. It does mean replacing the Gerbing plug with ours. I have to admit that I run my Gerbing heated gloves and vest using their connector.
Here's the setup on 990 ADV.
You can see two of our Baryl sockets on the HDB top clamp just to the right of the SPOT3. I use one for heated stuff and the other for tank bag power. You can also see a third one powering my Garmin Montana on the dash. I have lots of them 'cause I get them for free
I wouldn't worry too much about bare barrel connectors. The issue with the gerbings wasn't the actual barre' connector but the fact that it was mated to 22 gauge wire.
I too picked up a bunch of barrel connectors, the first batch had very thin mated connectors on them, the next batch I requested a minimum of 16g.
The barrel connectors themselves are "practically" all the same. You can't add more metal to a jack, it's 5.5x2.5, how can you make another one that withstands more amperage?
The only thing you can do is make sure it's mated to cables that can withstand the higher amperage.
IE a $2 radioshack or $1 electronics parts catalogs bare barrel jack will handle a heated setup just fine. Just be sure to solder on thicker cables to it.
Been using em for years for al sorts of electronics. Even connecting a 15a air pump, those get HOT, the wires get hot to the touch too after 5 minutes.
While running 10a, I feel no heat in the wiring.
Well what I ordered from Newark was wrong, twice (yep, I'm that good). I ended up ordering the gerbings one from Revzilla the other day. Wish I had come back here first as I would have ordered one from Shov.
Old thread but I needed the part in question so here's (what I believe is) the correct link.
Note that this plug is rated at 5.0A like most of them. We found a plug and socket that is rated at 7.5A which we use in our all-weather Baryl stuff. See my earlier post #28.
You see, I would never have responded to your first post in the way I did if you hadn't said something so personally abusive to me in that first response like you did again.
I would have completely let it slide, but no, you had to put in your own opinionated dig into the matter. THAT and THAT ALONE is what prompted my response.
And since you have shown that you don't have a clue as to what you're talking about, when it comes to me personally, let me tell you.
I 100% support Companies that MANUFACTURE items stateside. There are plenty of American companies that have shit made in China, that my friend, is not supporting an American company. But you keep telling yourself that.
So when you say otherwise about me, when in fact you don't know me from a brick in the wall, then you sir just make a complete ass of yourself.
My family and I, and BTW I was not born in the US, have been buying Cadilacs and Lincolns since day one. We could have easily been buying BMWS and Mercedes.
I've got plenty of garments from Pendleton, Woolrich, Filson, Duluth, and those are VERY expensive items. I go out of my way to ensure any type of fleece I use is made of Polartec because I personally know the owner of Malden Mills, Aaron Feuerstein and just love what he has done for his Lawrence Massachusetts workers after his place burned down way back in '95. Go look him up.
Next time you throw a dig at someone, at lease have the decency to know what the hell you are talking about.
You're not a manufacturer, but a reseller, even if you did have a say in some aspect of the design, is it fully MADE IN AMERICA?
No, so when you bring this whole made in the USA bullshit argument into the mix, you just ask for it.
I'll respond to the rest of your bile after I get this nasty taste out of my mouth.
PS I will apologize for one part of my post, the items of yours were in fact purchased from Burnsmoto, so it may be the ones I compared were in fact also purchased from China and if that is the case I sincerely apologize for that, specific part of my post. Since I had no idea a reseller of your products were selling counterfeit items, my initial review should not be looked at as a "flat out lie".
Reviving this thread, because there seems to be a great knowledge and info in here.
I am going to be using a gerbing jacket with a gerbing portable double controller for jacket and gloves.
I've bought a 6" SAE to DC COAX adapter to connect the controller to my SAE battery tender plug that is hardwired to the bike battery.
When I received the 6" connector from First Gear, it came with a note that I've attached. Basically it says this won't work with a battery tender SAE. The battery tender SAE plug I have has at least 16ga wires like the new coax connector I bought, so I can't believe the SAEplug won't handle the current the coax will.... Will it really affect the possible performance of the jacket? I mean can the resistance really be that much higher on an SAE plug? I'm thinking this is marketing smoke to buy more of their products.
Someone that understands electrons please help me out!
It's likely that battery tender harnesses have smaller gauge wire, because a tender is a trickle charger. The smaller gauge wire of the battery tender harness is insufficient for a full load of heated gear.
However, if yours is the same gauge wire, you should have no problems. Ensure your inline fuse is appropriately sized.
I've used battery tender plugs before too with a SEA to Coax converter and not noticed any decreased performance and like you I have found many seem to be the same gauge wire as the actual Coax battery plug.
I think lawyers just got involved here to protect themselves.
Ok thanks for the sanity check! Without cutting into the wires I have verified that the insulation on the SAE plug wires is a little bit thicker than the Coax cable which has 16ga printed on it. So I will assume the SAE are at least 16 as well.
I will do some research into the fuse size. Thanks for that.
It's also worth double checking the polarity on the output to the heat controller.