I have gotten so much excellent help from others around here, I thought I would offer this tidbit. I know it isn't much, but I've been doing electrical work all my life and learned this from an old radio pioneer (my dad). Many people prefer crimped wire connections, but I personally much prefer a good soldered splice with double heat shrink. This splice is electrically and mechanically close to perfect. It will take up very little more space than the original wire, and will never give you any trouble. I just finished a lot of electrical work on my BMW R1100GS, and a friend's 2007 R1200GS, and as I was showing my friend how to do this properly, he suggested I ought to do a quick tutorial on it. So here you go. I hope someone finds it useful. Begin by stripping the insulation on each of the wires you want to splice. Strip the insulation back equal to about seven diameters of the bare wire. This length isn't critical, a bit more will allow more wraps, and any less will make it hard to get enough wraps, but seven diameters seems to work pretty well. This wire is about 0.050" diameter, so I have stripped back about 0.350" of insulation. Then, assuming a stranded wire, twist the strands together tightly. When you have stripped the insulation and twisted the strands together on each end, cut two pieces of heat shrink tubing. One short piece just longer than the stripped insulation length, and another piece a bit longer. Use tubing large enough that it will easily slide over finished splice. I typically slide one piece on each end. It is important to try to push them back away from the splice while soldering so they don't get overheated and shrink before you've got them in place (see an example of this in a later photo). Somehow it is very easy to forget to put the heatshrink on before splicing; I can't tell you how many times I've done this over the years, so don't forget this step. Now here's the fun part: You begin by holding the two wire ends in your fingertips to form an X as show here. The wires should cross about one fourth of the way from the end of the insulation to the end of the wire, with three quarters of each wire end extending past the cross. Then you begin by bending one wire tip around the other wire as shown here. You just push it over with one finger tip. Then you use your thumb to continue to wrap this wire tip around the other wire as shown here. Then you do the same thing on the other side with the second wire tip When you have first twisted the two wire tips around the mating wire, there may be one or two loose strands, and the wraps won't be very tight, but each wire tip should be wrapped at least one full turn around the other wire. The splice will be kind of lumpy and crooked at this stage, but the important thing is that the each wire end is wrapped around the other wire. Next, take a pair of needle nose pliers and place the tip of the jaws on one end of the splice so the jaws cover about one third of the splice. With gentle pressure on the jaws, the pliers can be loosely slipped over the wrapped strands applying just enough friction that the jaws will tighten the twisted strands. By holding the pliers as shown here you can use a twist of your wrist to gently wipe the strands on one end of the splice to tighten their wrap. By repeating this a couple of times more, you can get most of the strands to wrap tightly around the joining wire. Then repeat this process of tightening the wrapped strands on the other half of the splice, twisting the pliers in the opposite direction. The pictures don't show it well enough, but you will want to pinch your finger tips onto the half of the splice you are not twisting with the pliers so that twisting one half doesn't un-twist the other half. While you pinch one side, you run the needle nose plier jaws around the other half to tighten the splice. It will help to practice this process a few times, but with just a bit of practice you can do this pretty easily. The goal is to end up with a splice that is mechanically strong before you solder. Once the ends are twisted tightly, you can retwist them between your fingers just to wipe down any loose strands that are still flying. At this point the two wires which started as a cross, will still be spliced together, but the two halves of the splice don't quite line up. The splice looks kind of lumpy. Now you can use the root of the jaws of the needle nose pliers to gently square up the splice. The idea here is not to squeeze them flat, but just press gently, rotate the jaws a quarter turn or so and press again, and repeat this several more times until the splice is straightened and roughly the profile of the insulated diameter of the wire. You are not trying to twist the strands at this point, just squeezing the profile of the splice gently to straighten it. With a little practice, the splice can look about like this before soldering. Handle it gently at this point so you don't undo your careful work, but it is actually surprisingly strong for just a couple of turns. The most common problem in soldered joints is allowing movement of the soldered parts before the solder freezes. One purpose of this splice is that when you solder the wires, they are so tightly twisted together that the two wire ends cannot be wiggled while the solder freezes, insuring a high quality solder joint. In preparation to solder the splice, put a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron. This helps the iron to transfer its heat into the wires. Solder will flow where the heat is, and we want the solder to flow into the wire strands, so the important thing is to heat the splice, not the solder. Next place the "wetted" soldering iron tip in contact with one side of the splice and a second or two later place the solder in contact with the opposite side of the splice. Let the soldering iron tip heat the splice and the heated splice will melt the solder. As the splice continues to heat up, you can sort of "paint" the solder against the splice to help spread the solder to the whole splice. The solder is actually a hollow tube with a cleaning agent inside (known as "rosin core solder"). This rosin core melts at a slightly lower temperature than the solder and will flow into the joint to help clean oxidation off the wire strands and allow the solder to flow evenly. *** Remember, except for the initial wetting of the tip, you don't melt the solder against the iron, but you heat the spliced wires with the iron, and you melt the solder against the spliced wires. Imagine that the solder is trying to flow toward the source of the heat (the iron tip) and you are putting the splice in the way so the solder has to flow through the wires to get to the iron. In this way, surface tension and wicking action will help the solder spread throughout the joint. When you've finished, you will have an excellent soldered splice that is electrically and mechanically every bit as good as a continuous wire. I have inadvertently illustrated another mistake to avoid here. For the benefit of the camera, I was holding the iron and solder against the splice longer than I would normally, so as you can see, the wires go hot enough that the heat shrink began to shrink. You don't want to let this happen. For this reason it is very helpful to push the heatshrink as far down the wires as you can away from the soldering, and apply the soldering heat quickly. It is better to use a good hot iron quickly than an iron that is barely hot enough that takes a long time to heat the splice. Fatter wires need a bigger iron. Next, slide the shorter piece of heat shrink onto the splice. This piece should be just slightly longer than the bare soldered splice. Before applying the heat shrink make sure there are no sharp points or wire strand tips sticking out that might puncture the heat shrink. If there are, you can use the root of the pliers jaws to gently blunt this tip so that it will not puncture the insulation. After shrinking the sleeving, it will look something like this. Then slide the longer piece of heat shrink over the first piece, centered with about equal overlap on both ends. This photo shows the second piece next to the joint before putting it in place for shrinking. After shrinking the second piece of heat shrink in place, you'll have a very rugged splice which has enough insulation to stand up against the vibration and wear from heavy use for many miles of on or offroad riding. It is also strain relieved at the ends of the splice which would otherwise represent stress concentrations and could break from repeated bending. I will be putting up a long posting over in GSPOT to document the electrical mods I did on my BMW R1100GS, and as you will see there, I used quite a few of these splices on some very critical circuits. The last thing you ever want is to have to track down an intermittent electrical connection or a wire that shorts to the chassis or another circuit. Cheers!