Starter relay!

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by keith_irl, May 3, 2010.

  1. keith_irl

    keith_irl Adventurer

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    Hey everybody, bike let me down once again!
    Driving home the other night all power gone, nothing, checked battery connections and all else, came down to the starter relay and found all the pins on it had corroded and one had failed and the pin itself had snapped off right in the base of the relay rendering a roadside repair impossible!

    Any how managed to bypass the starter button by bridging the relay and was able to get it home.

    Problem now is that there is no connector on the wiring harness only 4 spade connectors, there should be a connector block right? Got the new relay this morning and proceeded to wire it in. however everytime I connect the lead that goes to the starter button she blows the 30 amp fuse? Any ideas?

    Does anyone have a pin layout for the relay or is it a short somewhere else in the system? [​IMG][​IMG]

    Thanks Pics above, Update: with the wires in their current position it starts and everything is fine, however when i connect the connecter in the above picture, fuse blows? Any help at this stage would be greatly appreciated.
    #1
  2. Goss

    Goss LC8 Adventurer

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    The pin layout should be in the electrical part of your manual I think.

    I think Pyndon had this issue.
    #2
  3. keith_irl

    keith_irl Adventurer

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    Thank's Goss, no just checked the pin out is not, there is a wiring diagram but it doesnt show the pin configuration. Hair is falling out need to get this sorted soon !!!! Thanks
    #3
  4. keith_irl

    keith_irl Adventurer

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    Anyone else have any suggestions?
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  5. Pyndon

    Pyndon Long timer

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    Two things to check, if it's only started blowing the fuse since the new relay was fitted then my only suggestion is that you've wired it incorrectly.

    Check everything, large terminal connectors and wiring of the 4-way plug. The problem is bound to reside in your re-wire / fitting of new relay somewhere.

    Pyn
    #5
  6. keith_irl

    keith_irl Adventurer

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    Cheers man, should there be a plug going into the starter relay? Mine has four small spade connectors, visible in the pics above, With them attached in the configuration I have them now everything works fine except when I plug the connectors back together (the white clip together one that leads back to the voltage regulator ) only then it blows the 30a fuse. Can anyone help with a pic of the wiring going into the bottom of their starter relay? I cannot find any pin out diagrams or anything in any of the manuals for this, I assume because there should be a plug on the end of the loom that goes into the relay.
    Thank's in advance...
    #6
  7. Vicks

    Vicks gets stuck in sand

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    starter relay.JPG


    You bought a used bike right ?

    There should be a connector for the starter relay. This connector also has an o-ring which prevents crap from getting into the pins and corroding them (ecxactly what happened on your bike). Even if you manage to get the wires all connected proper and running, this will be a failure waiting to happen again and again and again..... given your location. Find a good electronics supply store, take the starter relay to them and ask them to get you a connector for it.
    #7
  8. keith_irl

    keith_irl Adventurer

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    Hi Vicks, yes it was a used bike. It seems this problem must have appeared to the previous owner who in turn crimped on 4 spade connectors to the wires and the pushed them onto the relay pins, as you say this was always going to be a weak point.

    My problem is knowing which pins join to which wires, I have 3 x red/white wires and one brown, one of the red white wires seems to be switched with the ignition and starter button (whitch would trigger the relay), brown is earth I take, the remaining 2 other red/white wires seem to be live at all times.

    If I knew exactly in what configuration the wires were going into the plug I would be able to rule out the way I have wired it up correctly or incorrectly. The pictures dont really show me. Ideally I need to see a picture in colour of the wires going into the connector.

    With the way I have them configured at the moment the bike starts up all as normal until I connect the white block connector as visible in pic 2 together (this leads back to the regulator).

    Thanks for all help so far!
    Regard's
    Keith
    #8
  9. HellsAlien

    HellsAlien a has-been that never-was

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    Keith,

    Up in msg 7 is a "pinout" of the 4 hole connector, I believe. It shows side and head-on views of the connector, with numbers 1 & 4. The wiring diagram has sub numbers 1,2,3,4 next to the coded wires. You should be able to check the pinout you have with this info.

    Good luck!
    #9
  10. Finn McCool

    Finn McCool Lateral Thumper

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    Hey Keith,
    I had a similar problem and did a quick job with standard spade connectors from Maplin. I found this place with proper sealed connectors
    I'm going to order soon, just trying to figure out which are the correct connectors.
    #10
  11. joneswgareth

    joneswgareth Welsh Rarebit

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    Keith - see my reply on UKKTMforum
    #11
  12. Finn McCool

    Finn McCool Lateral Thumper

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    Link please?
    #12
  13. keith_irl

    keith_irl Adventurer

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    #13
  14. uk_mouse

    uk_mouse Aquatic adventurer

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    I had a similar problem. In the end I couldn't source a new 4 way plug, so I used 4 individual spade terminals, removed the plastic shrouds from them, and them filled the cavity on the starter relay with silicon sealant. It's lasted many 1000s of miles like that.

    The four pins on the starter relay are:

    Ground
    Start (ie activate the relay, switch from the start button)
    2 x positive feed into the wiring loom.

    The two positive feed pins are electrically connected, and they are the output from the main fuse, which is on the side of the relay. In other words, these two wires are how all the rest of the loom is connected to the battery.

    Due to all the corrosion problems I eventually replaced the main fuse with a waterproof inline fuse holder wired directly to the +ve terminal of the battery. So actually I've only got two wires going to the starter relay, the ground and the start wire.
    #14
  15. keith_irl

    keith_irl Adventurer

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    Found the problem, or maybe part of the problem... See Pic
    [​IMG]


    Anyone know how much a new rectifier costs? Or have the part number? Thanks again
    #15
  16. MY ADV

    MY ADV "ZERO.. POINT.. ZERO"

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    P/N: 60011034100
    Price 122.00 US$

    Same thing happend to me (starter relay). Fixed it with spades and silicone.

    #16
  17. Matduport

    Matduport Adventurer

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    #17
  18. Joe Dirt

    Joe Dirt Been here awhile

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    I just went through similar symptoms and this information was extremely helpful in my troubleshooting. I turned the ignition switch and just heard a buzz or maybe an irregular fizzle (kind of hard to describe). The cluster did not illuminate and the starter button did nothing. The "event" that started this was just thumbing the starter one morning and what followed was an audible electrical pop and an apparent loss of electrical power. Those symptoms convinced me from the start that I'd blown a fuse. But to my surprise I couldn't find a blown fuse anywhere. Using my shade tree mechanic decision tree I moved to the starter relay and checking with a multimeter I could confirm that the relay was not energizing. I removed the relay and brought it in for a bench test. The schematic posted in this thread was the only information I could find and proved to be extremely helpful. I decided to test for continuity across the power studs (multimeter in diode mode) and energize the relay by applying ground and 12V to pins 3 and 4. I got an audible click and an audible tone from the multimeter telling me that the relay was working. I repeated this about 25 times just to exercise the relay and there was no "sticking". I reassembled the bike and dug a little deeper......

    I keep a SAE connector connected to the positive lead and ground stud on the side of the bike. In all my investigation I'd simply checked battery power at my SAE connector and always gotten 13V. But when I opened the battery box it was immediately noticeable that the positive battery terminal had a patina of oxidation and sure enough the lead was loose to the touch. I recently installed at Shorai battery and shimmed the extra space with padding. This created some resistance to the resting position of the positive battery cable and I simply hadn't tightened the fastener enough. I cleaned the leads with light sand paper, electrical contact cleaner, and reassembled. VROOM! I'll go back with some dielectric grease to prevent further corossion after a trip to the store.

    Thank you to all the posters here that provided the information I needed to troubleshoot my bike.
    #18