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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Beater, Jan 19, 2013.
I get the same flicker, doing the same thing.
If you have the under tank MC, sometimes it is possible to mistake the fluid level warning light flickering for the oil pressure light.
The oil pressure light triggers at a a fairly low pressure, so the problem needs to be identified and sorted. Most likely culprit would be the oil pickup in the sump, it can get loose and or a PO might have fitted a deeper sump without lowering the pickup?
I think its a combo of being slightly low on oil, and sending it all to one side of the pan by gravity and braking. BUt yeah, ultimatley its a lack of pick up rather than a blockage or pump problem
I hardly ever let my bike idle excepting maybe a little at stop lights. Idle on the side stand? That sounds like a good way to load up the left cylinder to me. Not only is the left cylinder getting too much oil, it's getting too much gas. Plus the right cylinder might not be getting enough. Beside, my airheads don't even have side stands because the airhead engine does not cope with a side stand well on a number of different levels plus I drag them too much in corners. Personally, side stands are dangerous road hooks.
Sump baffles? The later model sumps have a baffle stock. They need it IMO but the later models have a lot of stuff they need IMO.
Running your engine a half quart low? In all my personal miles on airheads and all the time I have been around them and worked on them, I have never noticed an airheads oil usage level off half way down the stick. For the most part, I see just the opposite. When it gets low, it gets even lower quicker. I know. I read just the opposite all the time but I have never seen it for sure on my bikes. Maybe because I rev them more than most?
Again, I'd like to emphasize that it never idle's longer than 20-30 seconds on the sidestand. Only long enough to close the garage door ... And She has never done this sort of thing before. So ... I am still a bit stumped.
I took off the sump and everything seems quite nice.
I then took off the screen, and while it had oil on it ... that seemed to be the only thing.
I then took out the filter and destroyed it. SImply trying to see if there was anything clogging it. I tried to capture any 'shiny things' ... but there really wasn't anything there.
So ... any more ideas? Put it all back together and see what happens?
I am correct in saying that the oil flows from the inside of the filter to the outside ... right?
EDIT: Answered my own question ... it goes from the outside to the inside. Thanks Anton
Get a new switch for starters.....NAPA OP6065. clean oil sender connections. Report back
Ball valve at the back of the filter tube? Is it well seated and sealed? Proper clearance from cover to cannister lip?
As you've checked a lot of things without finding the culprit, I would suggest you check the basic and obvious. Sometimes overlooking basics is easy and .....
How do you measure oil quantity ?
The correct method is to unscrew the oil-stick, wipe it of and put it back on WITHOUT screwing it. Then take it out to check the oil level. Maybe you screwed it and this lead to an oil level too low to wet the pump intake when on side stand.
Forgive me if I look too much basic here, but I've seen so much strange things with old airheads by unexperienced people...
Both of those are to be measured today ...
PS - Thanks for the reminder on the ball valve.
PPS - Heh ... You said 'ball valve' ... heh ... heh ..
There is also another valve in the oil system. It is on the front engine crankshaft bearing holder and it is reached by taking the timing chest cover off, that's the next cover after the front engine cover. Ordinarily the only time we see this one is when we do a timing chain. I don't remember too many details but somebody here, on advrider, had a bad one last year or the year before.
I think the one in the filter canister, ball check valve, is the filter bypass, that bypasses oil when the filter is clogged. And the one in the timing chest is the pressure regulator. That's what I think but it could be the other way around.
Both of these valves have been known to cause oiling problems.
Anyone have a visual diagram of the oil passages and restrictions? I remember seeing one, but Google has failed me ...
(Probably 'User Error' :huh )
Geeze, before you go worrying yourself into ulcers, why don't you just check things out with a gauge?
No idea if this is correct or the right vintage for your engine. There were changes through the years and it is seldom all that relevant exactly how the oil gets where it is going as long as it gets there. But here you are. I have this in my files only because I think it's a cool picture;