Stroking my Banshee for Kenny.

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Wildebeest90210, Jul 27, 2017.

  1. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer

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    Seizing at 95mph at the age of 19 seemed like fun, at my age now I think not so fun.
    Also if I added up what I've spent already I would have a mild coronary, if it hand grenades I would weep and gibber until the white van came for me so I want useable reliable(ish) power.
    Point 3, 80-85HP in 120 kg bike will be enough. I have finite amounts of adrenaline these days :knary

    Car was my friends 1100, he ended up buying the seized bike off me. He also had a long wheel based transit with a 3.1l Capri V6 in it that we all owned at some time.

    I'm not happy with the case paint finish, may have to try again..But for now it's together for photo shoot, with more Ti screws of course!
    Waiting for a couple of parts to build up clutch now. :dirtdog


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  2. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer

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    Very glossy. Try DupliColor low gloss black engine paint with ceramic. It's what I used on my K-bike. Very happy with the results.
    When I get home I'll look up the part # on the can and include it in this post.

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    As promised, here is the paint info. Sorry about the sideways images...just pick up your laptop.

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  3. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer

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    i seized a 74cc puch maxi at 12k+rpm at 72mph....... it was frightening. the skid was about 80 feet.
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  4. kenny robert

    kenny robert Been here awhile

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    gary davis had one as well it may have been one of his trackmaster framers tho i cannot remember
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  5. kenny robert

    kenny robert Been here awhile

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    not trying to take anything away from your totally bitchen project ,it is defining awesome ,however,
    your mistake was using paint in the first place on cases ,kg gunkote is far
    superior
    and not difficult at all to apply and bake/cure
  6. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer

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    No gunkote in the UK, no 2nd amendment :dunno
    One supplier for the dupli color engine so will try that some time.
    The only reason the finish is not spot on is one area of poor prep and the weather.
    This is the stuff, I've not used it but I'll give it a try.

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  7. XRGRIFF

    XRGRIFF Adventurer

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    Looks fabulous from where I'm sitting.
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  8. Fast Idle

    Fast Idle Since the Sixties

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    ^ This will be painful torture for many of us as well. Hope you figure out a way to start on the frame before withdrawals set in.
    :photog:lurk
    Bet it will be so fun to ride you won't want to stop. The rest of your bikes might gather some dust for awhile. Thanks for the posts.
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  9. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer

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    Changed paint again to Simoniz engine enamel, re-prepped, very glossy.
    Water pump seal and bearing in. The oversize water pump is accommodated by a cutout in the cover.


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  10. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    Now, because I might do the same soon, I'm assuming you remove each part that is to be painted, and mask it off? Or do you paint the cases and side covers in one go?
  11. Dino de Laurentiis

    Dino de Laurentiis Working on it

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    That looks fantastic! It seems you only painted the head? How did you prep before spraying?

    Says up to 500 deg F (260 deg C), intermittently. Would that work for the head/cylinder of an air/oil cooled engine?
  12. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer

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    Never. Everything must be stripped prepared and masked. If you choose to cut corners the finish will not be so good, up to you..
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  13. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer

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    It's actually not the head, it's just the valve cover, but I also did the crank cover on the opposite side.

    [​IMG]

    I honestly don't know what the normal, or extreme, running temp on an air cooled engine would be. Googling that question though revealed about 350F to 450F depending on the engine and the load.

    Sorry about the minor thread jack.
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  14. mach1mustang351

    mach1mustang351 Long timer

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    I worked at an automotive machine shop for a couple years, one of the differences between one of our cheap builds and good builds was the paint finish. On the cheaper ones, the engine would be built, then painted. On the good ones, they were painted as the process went a part at a time.

    When in the car, it was harder to tell, but side by side, there was a huge difference in the way they tuened out.

    I recommend doing it through the process.
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  15. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer

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    The 4 degree timing key, causes some argument amongst the quad bike racing fraternity. The stock motor has a measly 17 degree static advance to play safe so it's rumoured many HPs are available from a small tweak in timing. My motor should not have any adjustment on the stator mount but as you can see it has been attacked with a file at some time, this does not give enough. New slotted billet ones are available for later motors.

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    So to me the aftermarket stepped key is a good option, I spin the stator hard against it's original position and bolt it up. There should be no risk of shear, the key is location only and all the strength is in the taper.

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    This gives me 20 degrees advance at 2.17mm BTDC, should be perfect for a stroked and bored motor.

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    Looks spot on. :hmmmmm

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  16. kenny robert

    kenny robert Been here awhile

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    you dont need the key
    the key is simply to locate the rotor,it contributes nothing to keeping the rotor in time,the taper is doing 100% of the work
  17. JCool

    JCool Long timer

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    :fpalm You're pissing into the wind without a key for location.
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  18. kenny robert

    kenny robert Been here awhile

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    i raced for years on my kdx200 without key but because i could not source the correct flywheel ,(the magnets shit the bed)soon enough for the next event
    found a used one off i cannot remember what it was in 87,everything the same except it ran backwards with key
    ..lots of testing got it to racing condition
    i scribed a mark on the crank,so you get it back to where it ran good for that final location if pulling off flywheel for any reason
    but if playing with timing take the key out and git r dun
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  19. motu

    motu Loose Pre Unit

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    Lucas magnetos, and later camshaft driven points cams were a plain taper with no key. I'd like a key if there was a keyway, but it's not needed.
  20. kenny robert

    kenny robert Been here awhile

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    indeed as far as i know the tapers used in these types of critically important apps are in the class of self holding tapers my memery suck but 7 degerees comes to mind,although in the machine shop we refer to a taper by its rate of size change per ft
    morse taper the most common for drill presses and lathes is something like 5/8'' of diameter change per linear ft
    i have machined from scratch and changed from what it was the taper in parts
    machinery couplings for example and mc flywheels

    if i have a crankshaft needs adopting to a female in a flywheel
    the easiest way to get it right is with crank between centers in lathe then following the taper using the compound and the winner is when the indicator doesn't run when traveling up and back
    then cut the female bore traveling the cut with bed locked and compound only
    its still tricky the indicator needs to be dead on the center axis ,any little bit high or low and using that can make a scrap part in short order
    even after all that care a final adjustment when near finished ,may be needed after an eye opener test fit with something to witness like blue dike'em
    and if you go like .010'' to big diameter in female taper bore more scrap for you !!!