Super Sherpa thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by AZstrommer, Sep 3, 2007.

  1. ScienceOfDirt

    ScienceOfDirt U-Boat Rider

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    It's more a width of the seat issue. I should have mentioned that. I've found that no matter who makes the aftermarket seat, none add any width to them. I like the wide KLR seat. I don't like the narrow WR seat.
  2. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    Actually, they do. This is DR650:

    [​IMG]

    And an upholstery shop can add / carve foam to get even more width.
  3. ScienceOfDirt

    ScienceOfDirt U-Boat Rider

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    Interesting. Do they add to the seat pan, or is it just foam. I think I need to talk to seat concepts. Thanks.
  4. zenduddhist

    zenduddhist Been here awhile

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    They just provide the foam and the seat cover. You then replace the foam and cover on your own seat pan. I personally took mine to a upholsterer and had them do it. $30.00 locally. I really like mine. 2nd one I have had. 1st one was on a Suzuki DR-Z 400
  5. SkiFly01

    SkiFly01 Govna Racepipe

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    So Newcastleadam and I tore into the sherpa last night to start on the clutch pack because it was slipping so bad. Found it was just roasted :kboom


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thanks to tomatoe333 for recommending new clutch springs cause these were about 1mm under spec, clutch discs were reading 1.9mm where the spec limit is 2.62mm. New EBC discs and springs will be replacing it along with new jets for the carb to help out. Also, we did correct the chain guide to fit in its proper place holder.
  6. tomatoe333

    tomatoe333 Long timer

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    Don't forget to clean the oil pickup screen, bottom center in the picture. Looks pretty clean in there otherwise!
  7. SkiFly01

    SkiFly01 Govna Racepipe

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    Yep, we shot it up with some brake parts cleaner, very nice copper color now without spots.
  8. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    New clutch bits installed and rejetted the carb. The header no longer glows, so that's good. Also go the KLR250 finished up, looking forward to the weekend!
  9. Rx4Pain

    Rx4Pain Been here awhile

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    Guys, I uploaded the slide show/video that me and a buddy put together after our summer adventure last year. Thought I would share it here.

    Here's the link. http://youtu.be/cul6v9N4uDo

    Enjoy!

    Ken
  10. Rx4Pain

    Rx4Pain Been here awhile

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    SkiFly, did you go with the standard 130/20 jetting setup, or something different? I ask because I still feel that there is a bit missing in throttle response/initial "snap" on my Sherpa. Wondering if you did anything different?

    Ken
  11. SkiFly01

    SkiFly01 Govna Racepipe

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    No Rx4Pain, we found that it had the #20 in it already but installed the #130 and found when we ran our replacement tank with no filter it put a bunch of crap in the bowl of the carb, so a second cleaning took place.
    Anyways here is what the old vs new clutch springs ended up looking like.
    [​IMG]

    The best though was finding this collection of muck when I went to replace the seals behind the sprocket.:evil
    [​IMG]
  12. tomatoe333

    tomatoe333 Long timer

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    The case guard and sprocket cover from a KLX250 are a bolt-on replacement for the big Sherpa cover. If you're going to do any real muddy riding, I'd recommend changing over. I don't have the Kawasaki P/N's in front of me, but they're easy to find on an online fiche.
  13. greer

    greer Long timer

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    Our Sherpa has less than 100 miles on it, so maybe it's too soon to know, but it sure feels dead thru the low to mid range revs. I've read vague references to shimming the needle but no specific details. Can you all point me to more reading on that? Last night we swapped the jets and noticed an easier start and warm-up right off. No chance to ride it yet, though. Thanks

    Sarah
  14. tomatoe333

    tomatoe333 Long timer

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    Did you drill out the cover over the mixture screw and set it to 2-3/4 turns out?
    If not, do that before you mess w/ the needle. I would shim the needle on mine w/ an appropriately sized washer when the weather was cold (<40 degrees), but I never thought the bike needed it when it was warmer.
  15. greer

    greer Long timer

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    Yes, we did.

    Sarah
  16. Hawk62cj5

    Hawk62cj5 2 Cheap 4 a KLR

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    Whats the easiest way to change the fork oil ? I picked up a set or 1136 progressive springs and Im going to drop them in and figured while I was half way there go ahead and drain the oil and refill them with 10oz/300ml of 10 wt fork oil to make sure they are correct . I have read that some sherpas fork oil levels are off from the factory so I figured if I drained and refilled to spec I know they are right . I bought the sherpa new and only have around 1500 miles on it so Im pretty sure that all the seals and stuff are ok .
  17. flyinfuzz

    flyinfuzz 2 Quarts low

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    pull em off turn em upside down pump a few times & let them drain for a beer or so. :deal
  18. Rx4Pain

    Rx4Pain Been here awhile

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    Let me know how you feel about the springs once they are in/you have tried them out. I installed a set and found that the at rest ride height was lower than the stock springs!? I also saw that many folks put a 1 inche spacer in, but in my estimate, this would almost completely compress the more tightly (lower spring rate portion of the spring) wound springs to a point that they were essentially always compressed...meaning that they had no travel once the spacer was put in and the fork caps tightened down.

    The whole thing had me shaking my head. So I would like to see what you think in the end.

    Ken
  19. Hawk62cj5

    Hawk62cj5 2 Cheap 4 a KLR

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    Not really , you are setting preload and just loosing a inch of travel or what ever your spacer thickness is just like the when you adjust the rear spring . Since its a progressive spring starting softer getting stiffer you are just loading the softest part of the spring and since it gets stiffer its going to be harder to push the spring to the compressed limit anyway do to the ever increasing rate .But Ill review them in this thread when I get them in but if my fluid is off from the factory and I correct it it is not going to be a honest review due to improved dampening .


    No experience with bikes but my dad and two uncles have built and raced cars since 1968 so have been playing with race cars since I was a toddler and I mess with jeeps and off road buggies now so I have played with suspensions a little .
  20. Rx4Pain

    Rx4Pain Been here awhile

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    Well, let me know if its different for you but i measured the distance the spring would be compressed when the spacer is installed and then when i had the spring out i compressed it that 1 inch distance and observed the "softer" more closely spaced spring area simply compressed to a point where there was no gap between the coils. In reality, the spring lost virtually all of its ability to compress in that portion of the spring...which led me to believe there would be zero "progressive" action as this was now a "coil to coil" solid and uncompressable 6 inches of spring.

    I hope i explained it in a way you can visualize, but I dont think there is more than 1 inch or so of compression available in the uppermost 6 inches (softest" part of these springs. So, I will pick your brain after the install.

    I have thought about trying the springs without a spacer/preload, as it would provide the "progressive" action it was designed for, but the front end sags/is more soft than with the stockers.

    Ken