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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by AZstrommer, Sep 3, 2007.
I picked up a nicely farkled 2000 from Dragon Rider up in Portland Oregon yesterday. Got it unloaded today and minutes later twisted my back (amazingly not at all related to unloading the bike). So much for my first planned ride. No pics yet, but its a bike my wife and I will be sharing.
We are super happy as we feel it is about the perfect bike for our desired mix of on and offroad riding.
Unloaded, a day later...
Off and riding...
I pretty much copied you
Ok redid my front forks last night , first time I ever messed with forks at all and it took me about 2 hours not including drain time on the forks after cleaning them . I dropped the forks out cleaned them out with kero after removing the springs and let them set for a hour . I then flushed out with strait 10 wt fork oil until the kero smell was gone . One fork was clean and the oil resembled slightly used ATF the out fork had a glob of what looked like mud mid way on the spring and the fluid was dark about like burned atf . I didnt notice any metal or glitter but I was out side with poor light so I could have missed it . I had originally bought 10 wt oil because I read that was what came in it , then bought the 20 wt oil . So I put 150 ml of 10wt then 150 ml of 20 wt of each in both forks, both were short of the measurement of 147 mm. I then mixed 50ccof 10wt and 50cc of 20wt in a clean container and used it to raise the level up to the 147 mark , I let them set and double checked the both were correct .One took about 10ml extra and the other took about 15ml extra. I dropped the 1136 springs in and just put the provided washer over the spring then put the factory washer on top of that because it fit the tube better . The 1136 springs both matched the length of the factory springs perfectly so no spacers at all. Then I reinstalled the forks and wheel , dropped it off my KLR rear luggage device and bounced it a bit with my weight on it and sit on it to see if it felt any different , it didnt feel like it sagged any more or less . I try to go ride this evening to see how it feels .
One thing I am wondering about though , the page of the manual I saw with the levels said 147mm from top with a fluid change of 300 ml , dry assembly 354 ml . Im wondering if I should have worked the forks a bit before checking the levels to make sure air was worked out of the damping valve?
last night on the car port , the wife wasnt happy I took her spot because she had to leave early this morn and didnt want frost on her windshield .
I finally got tired of pulling the little side panel to access my charging plug, so I put in a thru-port for the Battery Tender cable. Much more convenient.
Where did you get that ?
I was wondering too . I have a power pole connecters made for mine but that is a right slick plug .
Pass Thru Port
Well tried the bike on a super short run this morning ,at first meh , then tried super hard breaking that felt alot better.
I picked up this little beauty recently, I've been riding it for about a month now. Commuting to work and some gnarly trail riding. After spending many years riding 650s, this is so easy to maneuver, especially when the trail gets really tight. Loads of fun, they go better than I expected, and surprisingly competent at highway cruising too.
Ok rode about 40 miles on the 1136 springs with the 15 wt oil , no preload . The bike felt better and little smoother and not quite as mushy . To me it wasnt a night and day difference but noticeable , was it worth the money and time .... not sure yet but Ill update after I run some offroad with it along with some more rough Va back roads . I think the oil helped with the mushy feel and the springs gave it a little smoother feel because it felt like the backend was bouncing a bit harder than the back end.
Seeing the non-US bikes in this thread really makes me want to find a high front fender for one of my Sherpas.
It is easy, go down to the motorcycle store and pick up a KX front fender. I put a black one on my and looks great. Used the bolts from the low fender to mount it at the botom of my triple clamp. I trimmed the back of the fender so it didn't rub the frame and it also increases air flow.
Very nice. I've just got my cable zip tied to the subframe.
You should pump the forks after you put the oil in, then start measuring. Most of the time, 3 or 4 pumps will do, but I always do more, 10 or 12.
You could go through the measuring process again, with forks on bike. Just support bike with front wheel slightly off the ground, pull caps (make sure to loosen top clamps!), pull springs and set aside to drip-dry. I jack front wheel up with a low profile scissor jack (from a junk yard) till wheel is up high enough to bottom forks and re measure with the fork oil level tool, making sure straw tune is in the center of the tube. Set your level and put it all back together.
If you have the syringe tool, you could draw an equal volume of oil from both tubes and add more 20wt as well.
The beauty of the syringe tool is that you can make fluid mix adjustments consistently, such as withdrawing 60ml and adding back 60 of heavier weight oil.
It may not feel like a big difference to you after your initial change, but you did good by it anyway simply by cleaning out your forks. Sounded like the one was pretty nasty!
Rx4Pain, did you ever re-try your springs?
*Edit* BTW, it really wasn't hard to do, was it. Next time, you could probably do it in 2/3rd of the time!
Thanks I think Ill recheck them by this weekend and Ill post the results . You are right , it is nothing to drop the forks out and after the first time I should be about to drop them and reinstall them in no time . You are also right that I dont have to drop them to check them this time .
RX do it but have some heavier oil on hand .
This is probably may favorite quote on ADVrider, but my bride hates it!
I cant take full credit for it ,A friend of mine said something very similar years ago . He is an old school harley guy and made it one day when we were in front of his shop watching all the bikes go buy on trailers for mytle beach bike week because of a wreck on I 95
Hopfully Im not offending to many ladies on here , which I doubt we have alot of prostitutes as inmates here anyway and if there are you can always pay them enough not to be ...
Back to Sherpas .....
testing springs in red clay , it got alot muddier on after the pic and I drove some deer paths on the way out to add a nice fresh pine smell to it .
Just bought an 09 super sherpa for my wife and am importing into Canada this week. Running in to a glitch in that the speedo now needs to be in metric as of April 1, Anyone have any suggestions short of buying new display from dealer for $400 (confirmed)? Aparently you cant change or reprogram the digital display
Anyone know of a wrecked sherpa with metric display out there...I guess I shoulda done a bit more homework before buying this one. Help is appreciated.
Not sure minus making a conversion chart for the dash like we do when else where . From what Ive read its no way to change it .But if it was me and the other option was buying a new one I would take it apart and see if theres a jumper that can be changed.
Funny to think someone from up north buying a sherpa down here since yall had a longer sale run of them from what I understand.
I'm considering downsizing to a Sherpa (or possibly KLX250/XT225) for a long term minimalist touring adventure I'm planning down the road. The thing is- I've never ridden one! I'd like to ride one to help narrow down my options, you know??
Any Sherpa owners in the midwest (I'm in S. WI) willing to swap bikes for an hour or two? You can hop on my VFR and we can go putt around wherever. It will probably feel like the star ship enterprise to you
Ill even throw in a free lunch to sweeten the deal