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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by jaumev, Jun 8, 2012.
What are your thoughts of the Touratech crash bars? Are they holding up ok?
No. The outer bars (silver) are strong and with a good quality steel but the anchor that go in the front (1) is a soft iron pipe who bends easily, simply with the bike weight. When finished with the skid plate will be the next accessory I need to do again. The idea is also try to cover better the radiator area and improve the look of the anchor (2) near the knees (really ugly).
may i ask about this part no.
I cut the OEM shift lever and melded with this Touratech part: http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/2011/PN-044-0760/Gear-Lever-Folding-Tip-R1200GS-Adventure
Here's my shifter with a HammerHead end.
thank you so much for you answer
I added the Givi crash bars yesterday. If you get these, do believe all the advice to start with the middle brackets and work out to the crash bars. The instructions say the opposite and that makes it impossible to put them together.
Of course I forgot all about the advice I had read to start in the middle and I had to take everything apart halfway through and start over.
Look closely at this picture.
The horizontal bar is part of the reason why you have to start in the middle. You can't get that bar in it's mounts if the inside brackets are already on. And if you put the crash bars on, you can't get them to fit where they bolt to the inside brackets. So put one inside bracket on, but don't tighten the bolts. Fit the horizontal bar to it's mounting bolts and attach the second inside bracket. (In the pic you can see I haven't put the bottom bolt in the inside bracket yet.) Then fit the upper screw (that you had to take off earlier) to the tab coming out of the top of the horizontal bracket. That takes some fiddling. Then you can tighten all the inside bracket bolts.
Then you put each side crash bar on, fitting the bar going to the inside bracket first and then bolting the bars to where the OEM sliders were. There are no torque specs, so loctite and a good pull with a breaker bar is what I used.
Here is a pic showing that the side panel does come off with the bars on.
I have the Force Accessories bash plate coming next.
If you fall (hope not ) tell us if the crash bars are strong
Also a review of your bash plate
Here it is the bash plate first prototype.
I've already talk about it in the general Super Ténéré thread:
Bash plate crash test:
Jaumev, I may have missed it - but what are you doing about the air filter? Staying with stock paper?
I'm prepping for a long trip and replacement stock filters won't be readily available, so need a reusable filter. I'm torn between K&N and Unifilter foam filters... I have a set from Yamaha Australia, they are stock on the Aussie bikes. I know the foam will filter better but the K&N will go much longer between cleanings. The GS guys swear by the foam filters but they all seem to run prefilters which are easy to clean and change, and allow them to go much longer between cleanings on the main filter. I don't see an easy way to fit a prefilter on the S10.
Here's a pic of the foam filters from Wasp when he first tore his bike apart... interestingly, he switched to K&N. Wasp, if you're there, how's that going?
I'm just with the same problem. Im still with the stock paper but I've blown to clean it a few times and needs a change. In Spain Yamaha offers only this oiled paper filter and is very expensive.
I my old GSA I changed the stock paper filter for a K&N but I regretted, the stock one was cheap and it was easy to clean it anywhere with pressure air. The K&N is more complicated to clean and I dont think it allows longer cleaning. I read somewhere that the bike breathe better because is more open but it allows entry more dirt inside the engine than others
. dont know
If I can find it I think the best is a foam like the Wasp one, if not I will find the K & N.
Let's see if anyone on the forum has more options
Wasp is missing
Wasp is not missing... Wasp is busy - Why else would I be at the computer at 5:00am
I installed a K&N about 4000>5000kms from new as I found it was a pain in the arse to clean the foam filters that came as standard on the Aussie spec bikes. They tend to go all soft and loose any elasticity after a few washes.
I also bought the K&N service kit which makes cleaning pretty simple.
Never looked back and cant feel any difference in operation.
If the foam filter doesn’t work, I’m going to take the K&N. I’m still have the K&N service kit from my previous bike and the OEM filter is too expensive.
Thanks Greg!! ride more and work less
Greg, you're saying you cleaned it "a few times" in the first 4-5000k? I know there was a lot of dirt in that mileage, but that's more frequent than I'd want to deal with. I know the K&N's filter BETTER as they get more dirt in them (i.e they let more particulate through when they are clean), and I've run one up to 15000 miles on the V-Strom without cleaning. Had a ton of crap in it, but no noticible performance drop off, or should I say no dramatic improvement once I'd cleaned it.
Might be over kill.... I use the K&N filter if you are looking for a pre filter
Uni filters offers flat foam that can be cut to fit. I've used it on several
smaller bikes that had flat filters to begin with. Pinch it in with the regular
Force Accessories bash plate came in the mail today. This is a heavy duty plate, seems like it'll hold up.
It does not use the threaded hole at the back of the sump. It does use two previously unused lugs off the engine and the two threaded holes the plastic guard used in the front. Two sturdy brackets bolt to each side of the engine at these points. Two new brackets are bolted in the rear.
Here are some pics.
The plate with the brackets attached.
The right side bracket attached. Notice a potential problem?
The left side bracket. It was a PITA to tighten that top bolt behind the pipes. The blue you see on the threads is loctite.
Right rear bracket. It attaches with two bolts.
Had to unbolt the kickstand. That's the old spacer dangling off the backside.
The new bracket, just before bolting it up. I didn't get a pic of it bolted on, you'll have to use your imagination.
This is the (lack of) clearance for the Purolator oil filter I used. That's with the plate loosely bolted in place. I'm going to have to change that before I put the plate on for good. That is a 3 inch filter.
Couple of pics of what it looks like on. This is still just loosely bolted on.
I think it looks pretty good. And I'm sure it will serve for the limited off road riding I plan to do.
Hope this is helpful.
IMHO the air filter cleaning intervals depend more on the type to use the bike than for the mileage. For example in summer in an off road use and lot of dust I would have to clean very often, instead in a paved road use you can follow the long intervals Yamaha says.
The filters are designed to let the air flow it need the bike. If they are dirty they are less efficient and the dirt can go to the engine and reduce its life. So I dont think the K&N filter better if dirty, less air passes thru because of dirt.
Thanks Pluric, finnaly I bought a K&N. Is about 3 times more expensive than the stock filter but it last a lot, so I think is a good investment.
It looks really strong, is it 3mm or 4mm aluminium?
The brackets look very strong, my concern is they are attached to the engine so it receive all the hits. In the Touratech skid plate there are some silent blocks to absorb the impact.
The Touratech has the same lack of clearance, son when it was bend by the its it move backwards and squelch the filter. Be carefull on that.
It looks great! thanks for the info. Any idea os wheigt? It could be good to have a database with all the ST skid plates features