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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Krasniewski, Aug 18, 2012.
How do you find the ergos of the Scrambler (and what are your inseam/height/sleeve lengths)?
You know... since you mentioned it, I'm just going to say it: it does not do it for me. For the price and work involved you are probably better off custom make the parts.
That said... now ride the shit out of it!!!
I'm 5'10", 170 lbs, I wear a 40 long on the jacket, inseam of 32" and I like the ergos a lot so far, but I'll update the opinion after I get more miles on her.
Yeah - the kit is good for those those short on time and those who can't/don't want to make the parts. I was borderline on both. Best for me would have probably been to buy individual parts from Ryca as necessary, but then again, the time to build would have grown exponentially and the product wouldn't be as complete.
Wrapped the project up today with blinkers, a carb adjustment, and the a brake stop.
First off the carb - I was too rich ~1/2 throttle, which meant I put in too many needle spacers. The kit came with three washers, which was too many. I went down to one, which feels much better.
Blinkers: very happy the way they turned out - low profile, not noticeable at all.
One of the things about the kit is the mounting of the optional blinkers. They don't really say anything about mounting the rears. They are to make a rear luggage rack with blinker mounts, which I wanted, but they didn't have available yet - so I went with the fender, which looked good and was a low profile. I spliced in the stock connectors, but had to add extensions - easy enough. The front is where the problem is. They want you to take the stockers apart and use a metal insert, after you tap it. I'm not into that, especially since all I had to do to make it work was use a small (1x2") piece of flat stock aluminum to make a mount. I should have taken pictures - hard to explain.
Anyway, got to the brake stop. I took some scrap metal and made a bracket that attached to the rearset bracket via the rearset nut and bolt. I was comfortable setting a permanent position, but welding on a nut to make the stop adjustable would have been just as easy. Ryca should adopt something like this - it's so simple and keeps you from having to do some crazy batshit brake setup. The slack is now adjustable by setting the rear actuator arm, then fine tuning using the threading on either end of the actuator rod. I like this setup - very solid now.
The only downside of having a solid rod like this is that the brake will probably need to be adjusted every time the chain is adjusted, but that can't be helped with this setup.
The piece in a vice: the shape is a little odd b/c the shape of the donor scrap was weird.
Anyway - the only thing left is the registration, which may not happen here in CA - damned dealer protection laws and all. I'll try to figure something out, but I may need to register through Florida, which I'm a resident of, but that's still a pain in the ass.
Also, I may add a little something to muffler to quiet it down some - it's pretty annoying. Nothing the neighbors will appreciate on early mornings.
Isn't it still just a Suzuki s-40 for reg purposes?
Yeah, the problem is the mileage. You can't register an out of state vehicle in Cali with less than 7,500 miles. It should be lower for bikes, IMO - this only had 5k on the clock. Now with new clocks, the mileage isn't actual, so I'm not sure what the DMV will say. They verify mileage, VIN, and EPA stickers at the DMV or vehicle registration service.
I'm thinking of bringing them a picture of an ODO with more than 7500 and saying that it was what the bike had b/f I changed the clock.
I owned a 49 state bike with less than 7,500 miles. The owner claimed the speedometer broke and signed an affidavit to that effect. He got it licensed in Ca., but from that point on, mileage for DMV purposes was "unknown".
Awesome - good to know! My KLRE got registered w/o the CA stickers - but the mileage one is new for me.
A few more miles today just to see how the carb is doing. Runs much better, but was a little lean right off idle. I backed the idle screw out another 1/2 turn to 2 turns out. Suspension feels a little stiff, but I'm a buck seventy-five. I think that the suspenders need to be stiff also, mostly due to limited suspension travel, which probably isn't ideal for a scrambler.
Ergo-wise, the pegs are a little high (5'10", 32" inseam). Pretty good for me, but if I were over 6' I'd think twice about the peg position. There is a slight lean forward, which is comfortable; it's not a sit-up-and-beg position, which also means it's not a stand on the pegs bike either.
Brakes feel great - had to use more than I wanted for a car that got on the brakes for a yellow.
Also, the packing is getting broken in or blown out as I'm quite sure the bike is getting louder.
And finally - I don't think the vacuum portion of the petcock works... what an ass pain. It's fine in "PRI" mode (prime), which is OK except that you should turn it off (which I won't remember) when leaving the bike and then you don't have a reserve, which is terrible.
Not a problem if the bike were registered to you in another state. Meaning if you lived in and registered it in FL then moved to CA before it had 7,500 miles on it then it's not an issue.
I guess it depends on the DMV maybe...when I brought my DR over here from Virginia they wouldn't register it because of the 7500 mile thing. But that was in '08, and it wasn't far off so I just rode till the VA tags expired and had crossed the 7500 on the odo.
I wonder if the mechanical one from a Yamaha Raptor would fit...that's the one I used in my DR's tank...I'll look and see if I kept it.
Also - there was a recent discussion in "The Garage" I believe on this subject.
"After much parts fiche searching, and the risk of $22, I found the petcock I need, and maybe it'll help some of you inmates as well.
This petcock is the standard unit from mid-80's TT600 Yamahas. Part number 34K-24500-02. Price thru most vendors is approx $15 plus shipping! Most online parts places or Yamaha dealers can get them within a week or two.
The base gasket and mounting screw holes fit both my DR650 and Kawasaki Super Sherpa. And eye-balling things, the petcock looks like it'd fit my KLX300 and XL250 too, so I'm thinking it's fairly universal.
The outlet barb points straight down! So this petcock can mount on the left or right side of a bike w/o the issues of a 90 degree outlet. It works well for situations where the carb inlet is on the left side of the bike, and the petcock mount is on the right. Perfect for the TM40 I installed on my DR!
The only potential downside to this petcock is a shorter-than-average outlet barb. It's only about 1/2" long with only 2 barbs so you need to use a strong wire clamp and be sure the fuel line isn't stressed.
The mounting base for this petcock is oval; 2.1" Long, 79" wide. The bolt/screw holes are .25" diameter and they're spaced 1.35" center-to-center.
In metric 53.5mm Long, 20mm Wide, Bolt/Screw holes are 6.6mm in diameter and they're spaced at 34mm center-to center.
The outlet barb is 6mmOD; 1/4" line would fit slightly loose. It probably needs 5.5mm metric fuel line."
I got my petcock from Ron Ayers at ronaryes.com for my S-40. It is a manual one and I think it was for a Raptor 660. It was a bolt-on, no changes. Just plug the vacuum port on the carb. Their part # is 5LP-24500-01-00. SKU #808680. It was $16.30 + $5.00 shipping. The manual one takes care of some running problems the S-40 has because of a bad OEM petcock. It also makes it easier to get the tank off. Carl
Thank you for the thread, Kras -it is much appreciated.
I've been interested in the Ryca project since I first read about it in some of the bike magazines - I didn't know about the Scrambler version though, I've always like cafe' bikes anyway. Good to hear they sound like a fairly good outfit - and also telling that the kits aren't perfect either. I hope they can survive for awhile, I like re-purposing stuff and Lord knows there are a bunch of Suzuki Savages sitting around in garages with low mileage on them (never liked the Cruiser riding position myself either). I just hope some less-than-knowledgable rider doesn't decide to sue them after he stacks and decides it's all the fault of the funny rear brake or something.
Best luck on getting it Legit - sometimes it's must a matter of who you are dealing with, so if you first don't succeed, try another branch if you can.
Take care and I hope the deployment goes well, thank you for your service to the nation.
Redshark - glad to hear you've enjoyed the thread! The forum definitely keeps me going on the bad days - good advice and a place to vent when you need it. Not like the wife wants to hear about my bike project is sucking.
Anyway - good call on the Raptor petcock - I think it's what I have on my KLRE. I'll take a look and see what I can find. I still have the old tank to play with - thanks for the measurements, Zap! I really don't want to play the de-fuel game unless I know it's for a reason - measurements definitely will help.
Looking back, it's funny that I called out the petcock problem before I even knew mine had failed. Go figure.
I believe I have the same muffler on my street tracker.
(Emgo reverse cone 18")
They are known to be poorly packed and what there is blows out immediately.
Most users repack with a good fiberglass (or other) packing.
They are still rather loud and will make many enemies of bikes if you aren't mindful of the noise level.
Don't be one who adds to the move to make changing our exhaust system illegal.
I really don't like the sewing machine sound of most stock systems.
Good to know. The muffler has a really long baffle in it - I'd like to redo the packing and shorten the baffle to make it more the size of a crumb cup, restricting flow. The tip screws on, but I think the baffle is welded in, which really sucks.
Anyway, had a 0820 appointment at the DMV today. At high RPM on the backside of Coronado Bridge the bike sputtered a little, then died. Luckily, it was the backside and I was able to coast clear of it. A nice fellow Sailor stopped and offered a ride, which was cool, but I passed thinking I might be able to figure it out, or I'd just call AMA Roadside Assistance, which offers free towing to members (join today!).
I found that the bike had no power, so I was thinking that the battery was feeding the bike the whole time and died - bad charging system perhaps. But the electricals were deader 'n 'a doornail, so I checked the fuzes. Sure enough, one was blown. Maybe the RR wasn't regulating the voltage well and it had blown at high RPM because of that? A walk through the barrio got me to a Shell station, where I bought six (one can never have too many fuses) 30a fuses to replace blown 20-amper. I swapped the fuse, and the bike fired right up.
A careful ride down the 5 got me to the San Ysidro (way better than Chula Vista DMV, btw) location, but over an hour late for my appointment, which meant waiting in the long line for a ticket for a longer wait. No problem, I read my book, "Dreaming of Jupiter," sequel to "Jupiter's Travels." Good stuff.
A couple of hours later, I got paperwork, to go and get a vehicle verification, which went quickly, unlike last time. After that and a 169 dollars I couldn't think of what else to spend on, I had plates! Title to follow in 4-6 weeks by government mail.
On the way home I noticed my blinkers weren't working - neither was my horn... or headlight... or tach. Weird - maybe a relay burned out b/c I put too big of a fuse in? Also, a little bit of a clanking noise was evident at higher RPM. I figured out the clanking, which goes back a couple of days. As some of you know, the Ryca Cafe kit had a strange foot actuated decomp lever for easier starts of the motor. They got flak for it, so this kit came with a manual lever. Somehow, and it may be me, but the return spring pushed the lever too far down so that while running, the lever would go up and down. So naturally, I took the spring off and it did OK. Now, if you push it up OR down while it's running, it hits the cam lobe, bouncing off in the opposite direction. The clanking was rapid movement of the lever up and down- so hard that when I stopped it with my leather-clad hand, it hurt my finger.
Now, when I got home and took a look at it, it all made sense. The good news is that I don't have a charging issue after all. I'll have to fix some wiring and think of what to do with the lever (not visible in photo). Keep it in mid-position with a spring or rubber band perhaps - or remove it completely; the bike starts fine w/o it.
Feck, that's ugly. I damn near burned an old Porsche 914 right to the ground running a round with a "modified" wiring harness like that. Lucky it wasn't worse:huh