TE610 Quiz

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Husky Varmit, Dec 20, 2009.

  1. Husky Varmit

    Husky Varmit Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    703
    Location:
    Llano Estacado - Cottle County
  2. bobnoxious67

    bobnoxious67 Baby steps...

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2008
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    3,712
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    Harrisville, NH
    Where's the clutch cable?
    #2
  3. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-)

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    12,708
    Location:
    Petersburg, NY and Mill Spring, NC
    Yup....looks like someone installed a Magura hydraulic clutch. I'd like to know which model they used,,,, what bike is was meant to be installed.
    #3
  4. Husky Varmit

    Husky Varmit Been here awhile

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    Oct 20, 2009
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    Yes, it is a hydraulic clutch set-up on an '08 TE610.
    George at UpTite Husky is finally shipping the kit. I don't know how many of them are actually out in the real world, but this was one of the first to actually go out as a finished product. And, yes, most if not all parts are Magura.

    It is a pretty simple installation and a lot of design has apparently gone into the final product. It is smooth, pull weight is comparable to a new cable set-up, adjustment is pretty good, the bracket is a work of art and belongs on a tug boat or tractor and the hose is long enough to accommodate almost any high bars short of real ape-hangers.

    First: do not even attempt to install this little goody w/o removing the airbox. Of course all the other foo-foo will have to go - seat, panels, tank, etc. Yeah, yeah, you can do it w/o taking the airbox off, but trust me you will end up taking it off after a few bouts of colorful expletives anyway so just go ahead and get it over with. I strongly suggest taking the boot off at the injector body instead of the back of the airbox. Again, you are going to do it anyway after multiple attempts to re-attach the airbox to the boot, so save the headache and do it to start with.While you are in there, replace those abortions that they call hose clamps on the boot - it's hard to believe that they could find such cheap garbage. (side note - if you forget to tighten the hose clamp on the boot, it is almost impossible to get to it after the tank is back in place - listen to the experience here!)

    next post - the gotcha's

    #4
  5. Xcuvator

    Xcuvator Justa Venturer

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    If it is one of George's creations, I'm sure it is a work of art.
    #5
  6. Husky Varmit

    Husky Varmit Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    703
    Location:
    Llano Estacado - Cottle County
    The biggest gotcha is that George is still working on the installation instructions and I am kinda 'jumping the gun' with some of this info. So, you are gonna be kinda 'flyin blind' on some of the details. But he knows I'm gonna talk about him and he has been around long enuff to realize that I'm not gonna rag on him w/o real reason.

    And this kit doesn't deserve a lot of bad-mouthin' - in comparison to a whole lot of stuff I look at, this thing is pure art. For example, that bracket I mentioned in the first post is solid stainless steel and could quite literally serve as a lift bracket for the bike. That sucker ain't gonna flex at all!

    Anyway, I am sure that the installation instructions will be out soon and some of us 'bleeding edge' adopters will be giving feedback on anything he may have overlooked.

    Now to some of the gotcha's I found:

    1. there is no provision for re-mounting your left mirror. George has a solution, but you will have to ask for it. Also, Paul over at Highway Dirtbikes is working on modding his fold-out mirrors so they will work on other manufacturers bark busters and I have great faith that he will have a saleable model VERY soon - so bug him about them, but nicely.

    2. you will have to bypass the clutch interlock switch.
    WARNING!!!! WARNING!!!! WARNING!!!!
    When you do this, there is NOTHING to prevent the bike from starting, in gear, with the clutch out! If you hit the starter button with the bike in first, key on and clutch out - it will probably move from it's present position. With or without you!! .... and Murphy guarantees that it will go directly to the most expensive object in the area.

    3. my unit arrived with the choke lever matched to a different type of choke cable than is on the bike. The lever is too thin to accept the barrel on the end of the choke cable. Actually, the barrel is as long as the lever is thick. George is looking into this, but a little time with a grinder or file will modify the cable barrel down to a size that will fit in the lever.

    4. the slave cylinder is not keyed to the bracket and will find it's own position. Mine rotated to where the banjo fitting and bleeder valve were hard against the mounting bracket. I radiused the side of the bracket a little with the grinder and then put a piece of 1/8 inch polyurethane between them as a cushion.

    5. the hose from the slave banjo fitting was positioned where it tried to go right through the brake fluid reservoir. Simply loosen the banjo (just a little - you don't want to let the fluid leak out or get air in the system) and position the hose where you need it.

    6. the 'freeplay' on the actuator rod from the slave cylinder is critical. I believe that most installations will need to be shimmed by placing washers between the bracket and slave cylinder. I am going to suggest to George that he include some with each kit. ( I know that doesn't make much sense, but it will when you see how it mounts and there are real installation instructions - and, no I didn't get a pic of that particular area)

    (more with some pics later - out of time tonight)

    #6
  7. Hoder

    Hoder Card carrying greeny

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    Your brake fluid needs changing? :lol3
    #7
  8. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

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    George is "The Man".
    #8
  9. Nico

    Nico Save the USA

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    here, there and everywhere
    You noticed that too? Thought it was the adjustment on my monitor.
    #9
  10. Husky Varmit

    Husky Varmit Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2009
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    703
    Location:
    Llano Estacado - Cottle County
    Hey, some of us can even ride old Bultaco's with wet brakes!!! Besides, if you are using the brakes somebody might pass you and throw rocks at your pretty scooter.

    But, yes, you are right, that fluid is pretty sorry. It is on the 'to do list' - right after new tires, new sprockets, new chain, different seat, etc, etc.
    #10
  11. Husky Varmit

    Husky Varmit Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    703
    Location:
    Llano Estacado - Cottle County
    OK, I promised some more info and a couple of pics.

    Let's start with the improved routing of the hydraulic hose vs the clutch cable. Forget all the hassle of keeping that old cable as straight as possible. The fluid in the hose doesn't bind up like a cable, so a lot more options are available. I put it as close to the motor as I could get it without worrying about melting it. The less there is hanging out in the breeze, the less that can get hung up. George is still looking for some little brackets to screw into the 6mm holes on the side of the engine, but tie wraps work for now.

    http://huskyvarmit.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/TE610/hose-routing-motor/746956039_9sQq5-M.jpg


    I had to route the hose on the back side of the bar mount. Not the best arrangement, but the only way with the dashboard being on the front. If you have to bring yours up from behind the tank in the same way, I strongly suggest that you swing the bars completely to the stops both right and left. The hose will probably hang up on the milled relief on the back of the top triple clamp. The only option to prevent premature failure of the hose is to get out the grinder again (or the files) and radius the top clamp so that the mill cut isn't so sharp. If at all possible, bring the hose along the frame tube and out to the front of the triple clamp. This will help with the standing loop above the bars also.

    http://huskyvarmit.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/TE610/hose-routing-bars/746956021_i6pig-M.jpg


    Bypassing the clutch interlock.
    This is the easiest part of the whole process. The wires from the lever switch have spade connectors on them that will slide into each other. Simply push one connector into the other from the back side. After I put them together, I put a couple of tie wraps over the existing rubber boot to keep out large boulders and low flying birds. Then stuff it up under the frame tube and tie wrap it in place so it can go back inplace when you sell the bike.

    http://huskyvarmit.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/TE610/clutch-interlock-wires/746956004_vipyj-M.jpg


    Last thing - that darned choke lever.
    I didn't get any pics of this but everybody knows what the end of a cable looks like. (If you don't, you better let somebody else install this!!) The problem is that the barrel on the end of the cable is too long. You don't have to completely change it up, just remove about half of the barrel length between where the cable is staked in and the end of the barrel. It is a lot easier if you grind off the side that is hollow. As long as you stop before you get to where it is no longer hollow, it will not efect the staking of the cable. Then stick the side you ground down into the handle and let the other end stick out a little - it won't hurt anything.


    http://huskyvarmit.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/TE610/choke-lever/746955949_pRgta-M.jpg


    So now you have a hydraulic clutch on your Husky. Gotta get that sucker back together in a hurry and test out the new toy - right?

    Well, a couple of things to think about before you get too carried away.

    First, be VERY certain that the free play at the clutch engagement arm (on the case) is about 3mm (approx 1/8 inch). If it is any more, you have to pull the slave cylinder and put some washers between it and the bracket (8mm, I think, but not sure).

    Adjust the actuator at the lever and enjoy.

    Oh yeah, the first time you get it fired up and ready to ride, it might not be a bad idea to be on the seat and pointed towards some flat dirt before you stomp on the shift lever - you know, just in case I forgot something.

    Good luck, The Original Husky Varmit (AKA Old Texan)
    #11
  12. Trang

    Trang ... 2nd last to the Sweep

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,136
    Location:
    Orange NSW Australia
    Questions regarding the Hydraulic Clutch Kit.

    1. Can someone please advise on how to 'Adjust' the clutch with this kit?
    I initially installed the kit bare, but the bike just wouldn't move with the bike in gear, and the clutch lever pulled.
    So i installed some washers, between the brass bush and the bracket (about 6mm).
    This made a fair bit of difference, but now the bike is 'hard' to push.
    I'm cautious abut installing more, as there appears to be a fair bit of load on the clutch arm as it is with the kit installed? :ear

    2. What is the purpose of the Red adjuster at the clutch lever? Obviously, this is an adjustment, but is if affecting the stroke, or just the lever position? :ear

    3. How much 'pull' is there meant to be on the clutch actuator. It appears that the maximum i am getting is about 8mm. Is this correct, or does the system need bleeding etc? :ear

    4. The cluch lever appears hard to pull. i.e: about the same as the barnett cable i removed. Does this sound right, as i was expecting it to be almost nothing? :ear

    Thanks in advance :thumb
    #12