TE610 Tank Flaring IMS

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Xfool, Jun 19, 2007.

  1. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    We were all pretty excited about getting these 5 gallon IMS tanks. Then disappointed when the wings started flaring out. The tank banging around has been bugging me because the banging works the petcocks loose and they start leaking.
    #1
  2. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    I finally got the ambition to disconnect all four petcocks and pull the tank off (guess it wasn’t bugging me that much). My tank has flared about three inches, an inch and a half on each side. Squeezing the wings together, with the tank off the bike, causes the inside hump of the tank “the saddle” to move up. The frame under the tank “the backbone” has marks on it where the tank was hitting.
    #2
  3. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    Tank flare theory:
    Highway wind flares the tank wings out and the tank flares until the tank saddle hits the frame backbone. The backbone stops it. If the gap between the tank and frame were filled in then the tank won’t flair.

    I had an old inner tube, a heavy duty 1/8” one, cut some strips out and zip-tied them to the frame. It took about 3/8” to fill in the gap. With the gap filled the seat is a PIA to put on, and once you get the seat on the front of the tank pops up making it hard to get the front bolt in. After a few rides the tank re-forms and you can get it on without problems.
    #3
  4. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    The flare hasn’t gone away but it is now down to about a half an inch. Maybe more spacers?

    Stay tuned…………
    #4
  5. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

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    Nice work. I am still considering Ibarras solution for the support concerns:http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=132
    I will try the tube fill trick and see what it does...did it make the tank move more forward? I can't have the tank move forward as I have a Scotts Damper Tower mounted and don't have any clearance...

    Dan
    #5
  6. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    Ya, I saw your post on the steering damper. My tank mount pin used to be all the way forward like yours. With the spacer in there the mount pin has moved back to about 1 1/8”. Good news is that it is tunable, adjusting the spacers you can move the tank pin from all the way forward to at least the mid slot position.
    #6
  7. ra2bach

    ra2bach drive-by poster

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    what? :eek1 the tank mount pin is movable?

    how come all the people who had trouble getting their IMS tanks to fit over the pins didn't do this?
    #7
  8. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

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    I need the pin to remain forward in the slot so the tank needs to stay rearward of the head tube for clearance between the bolt on tower and the tank. As you can see as the tank sits now the tower pin actually touches the pin...

    Dan
    #8
  9. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

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    The pin is not moving, the tank is being manipulated by the spacer and that is pulling the slot of the tank rearward. It would have kept me from using the dremel on my tank if I had tried Xfools spacer mod first...

    Dan
    #9
  10. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    .....and now you need to grind the other end.:huh
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  11. ra2bach

    ra2bach drive-by poster

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    so, how's this working out so far???
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  12. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    Success!. I have put about 2000 more miles on the bike and the flare has stabilized at ½”. See post #4 for a pic of ½” flare.

    You have to force everything together when you first put the spacers in. Put the seat on first, the front of the tank will pop up and you can then sit on it and get the bolt in on the front of the tank. After a couple of rides the tank will re-form and you will be able to get the seat on and off without problems.

    One other note: the front of the seat is held down by two aluminum tangs welded to the frame. I’m sure those tangs are fragile and won’t hold up to being bent. So…… while “forcing” things together you need to adjust the backbone spacers in stages to avoid overstressing the tangs. I didn’t have a problem, just a warning for the over zealous when the use of “force” is suggested. Be gentle, do it in stages, put a couple of rides in to let the tank reform.
    #12
  13. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    While I’m on the podium, Fuel Slosh in these 5 gallon IMS tank is awful, it completely screwed the handling of my bike. Stuffing your tank with G-Zero foam eliminates slosh, the stuff rocks and I am going to keep ranting about slosh in these large tanks until someone agrees with me.
    #13
  14. Hoder

    Hoder Card carrying greeny

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    I agree with you :D
    I just haven't gotten around to buying the foam yet.
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  15. nsx

    nsx Been here awhile

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    Is this working for others? My 4.3 gallon is not responding. I'm thinking about attaching (maybe with epoxy?) some sort of lug to the bottom of each side to try to pull the tank back into shape.
    #15
  16. the_gr8t_waldo

    the_gr8t_waldo Long timer

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    i have a bit of problem with the wind being the culprit here. i'd be willing to guess the problem is more likely the nature of roto cast. stresses locked in during the mafg.process, working themselves out over time.
    #16
  17. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    nsx:

    Tell us about your install.
    • What did you use for spacers and how tall is the stack?
    • With the seat on did the front of the tank pop up with the spacers in there?
    • How far did the front of the tank pop up before you put the screw in and tightened it down?
    • Did you ride it a couple 100 miles to let the engine heat reform the tank?
    • After you rode it does the front of the tank still pop up with the bolt out?
    Just curious if you have enough tension on the tank to force it to reform, maybe more spacers?
    Got a pic? :lurk
    #17
  18. nsx

    nsx Been here awhile

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    I think you are right that I need to use a different material. I used 3/8 closed cell foam, very stiff, but over time it must have compressed because the front of the tank barely moves when I loosen the screw and when I installed it I could hardly get it together.

    Maybe I should go to a truck tire place and try to get a thick tube, if anyone uses tubes anymore. I guess I could keep adding layers of foam like you did with the tube.

    Thanks for the info.
    #18
  19. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    Bummer about the foam, truck stop inner tube sounds like a possibility. If you have an old front tire laying around cutting a section out of that might be another possibility.
    #19
  20. Ruffus

    Ruffus Dirty Old Mudder

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    just a shot in the dark here, but what if you bought a cheap mountain bike tire for a spacer??? I've seen cheapies go for about $8.00, thicker than just a typical tube, & you can control the thickness you want by style of tire, knobby height, street slick etc. :dunno

    P.S. if knobby ends up too thick, a hand grinder with a 40 grit sanding disk can shave it down very nicely & evenly
    #20