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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by dfhmotor, Nov 10, 2011.
Thank you for your response ED@Ford that makes sense, btw the way, you work for Ford?
Retired from Ford
- as it turned up on my doorstep on Wednesday morning. isnt it PURDY? specially in flash anodised red.
Perfect! I've been wondering how the red skidplate would look like on the bike. You called in sick to work today so you could install it and snap us some pic's, right?
I wonder if one could send back their skid plate (plan silver for a pretty red one) It is sharp looking that's for sure.
Seat Concepts black and red seat and a bit more Plasti Dip.
Thanks for posting that Ed... I didn't realize that!
How bout some more pics of that purdy seat? Maybe a little bigger?
unfortunately, had to work was itchin to install it all week, as the bike had been in the shop all week getting serviced.
ran into a bit of a snag, one of the front holes didnt line up correctly with the stock threaded holes,
anyone have any ideas on how to fix it? without having to send it back, granted it's still a work in progress but how hard is it to weld boss' in line with the stock threaded holes? minor niggles, fits up fine and looks 'different' after all, isnt that wot we're about? do it different to the next fella?
This is a common problem when it comes to welded parts. The main plate is likely cut out on a CNC plasma table - including the mouting holes. Then it goes into a roller press to have the curve put into it, and finally the side plates, tabs and bungs are welded into place. Unfortunately the heat from the welding process can cause the plate to warp/shift and the mounting holes not to line up.
Generally speaking, if the shift is minimal you can usually get away with just using wooden dowel or pry bar to force it into alignment without any negative effects. However, if the shift is too much or it takes an exuberant amount of pressure to get the holes lined up, it's probably best to send it back because all that stress will eventually result in something cracking and usually it will be the mounting bracket on the frame or the weld that holds said bracket to the frame that fails.
normally if something shifts, i can put a bolt in, get 2 turns on the threads and the bolt will pull it straight. this one however, no go. a mate suggested drilling a hole in the front, cuz the front hole (slotted thing) only has vertical movement, im thinking it might be the go as i need to go up and across to the right. and if i do it cleanly, won't be able to see the hole unless i take the bolt out. hidden and sorted! i like it, will post pics when i get it done.
didnt end up lining up correctly,
just left it as it is, as i didnt want to bend/break the lug on the frame if i ever wanted to refit the stock skidplate (unlikely)...its pretty solid as it is..looks schmick..and doesnt impede the bike in any way.
Several more pics of the seat concepts seat. After several rides, it is much more comfortable than stock.
I took a stock filter and cut all the paper out. I used a Dremel to cut out the front of the stock filter to make an even surface. I cut to fit Uni Filter bulk foam and siliconed it into the stock filter. This should allow much more air to flow. I am surprised any air passed through the paper of the stock filter. Oiling and cleaning will be a bit difficult since the foam is fixed onto the frame, but it is an option until someone comes out with a good aftermarket filter.
Best Dual Sport Bikes has one in the works, but if I read their site right they're going to be $100. That's pretty spendy for a foam air filter!
And the pics the noob posted look like photoshop. Like the guy claiming his bike has a factory plastic tank. I call BS.
I'm not about to rain on nbrooks' efforts, but if you look closely, the stock paper filter has a very fancy plastic frame that may have to be replicated...at $$$$$$$ cost by the foam filter vendor. Most foam filters are not much more than a sock or a stocking cap bit of material, and are fairly straightforward to manufacture. Twin Air already makes a filter for the CRF250R street model....but if you look at the parts book, it is a stand alone piece that appears to get sandwiched in in the airbox....quite different from the "L" model....so the L model filter will be way more than the $30 or so for you pay for CRF or XR honda filter assembly. A reuseable "frame" to stretch the foam "cap" over won't be cheap.
i backpedalled after testing the tank bro. my mistake.
on another note i received my ManRacks rack yesterday afternoon, fitted it up this morning. will post pics later. all in all, fits quite well.
I zoomed in and examined the edges (go to the photo bucket site and you can use the zoom feature of the browser)- which would be the places that would give it away - there is overhang in material over edges which lead me to believe that the photos are real. If not real, then its a pretty good fake and noob should be doing crop circle and UFO pictures too!
One more pic of the filter installed on the bike. If you click on the pic it will take you to my photobucket page where you can view the full pic and use the zoom feature if you would like. I have not found a better was to post pics off my camera onto the forum. So if anyone has a better suggestion, please let me know. I did add an aditional bead of siliconearound the edges of the outside of the filter to add a bit more confidence in the filter. I had also ordered an additional stock filter prior to cutting up the one I had, just in case things went wrong, I would still have a filter to use. Overall I am happy with the way the filter turned out. I thought it was quite entertaining for someone to assume I photoshopped the filter, just did not anticipate that one. What would be in that for me? Besides I am not that good with a computer. I came up with an idea due to lack of an aftermarket filter, I tried it, and then shared my results. That's what forums are for. I may be a Noob to this site, but I have had Motorcycles and ATVs for the the past 25 yrs. I always find myself taking things appart to see how they work or to "improve" them . Sometimes it works in my favor and sometimes I end up creating a lot more work for myself. I have put 1000 miles on my CRF in the last two months, mostly riding in the desert of Utah and Arizona. I have really enjoyed the bike and the mods I have made have really opened the bike up. FYI the bulk foam from Uni was about $12 and came with enough foam to cover this filter area about four times, so plenty.