The 650 Dakar Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by underwaterguru, Mar 10, 2009.

  1. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    Yeah, happy birthday :fpalm

    Fucktards like that deserve to sit in isolation and have their nuts smacked once every day for a year. The first few days it'll just hurt physically, but after that they'll slowly collapse mentally, just waiting for the smack 24/7.
    Gedrog and NahdarVebb like this.
  2. Gedrog

    Gedrog Long timer

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    Unfortunately local politics played a role lots of very unhappy locals setting the place on fire and having a right old time of it, now lots of locals are without jobs and the place is experiencing a massive crime wave.
    https://www.timeslive.co.za/news/so...-afraid-to-arrest-protesters-in-fishing-town/
    https://www.timeslive.co.za/news/so...leinmond-protesters-rule-out-deal-with-mayor/
  3. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    To paraphrase Glenn Frey: The HEED is on!

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    The problem was that the rear of the KTM fender hits the upper bar mounts. Took a few pics, but they mostly turned out shit, sorry.

    There was no chance in hell of moving the handlebars as the fender was locked in place against the HEED's.

    Measuring the stanchion exposed when the bike was jacked up, assuming the forks travel the full length of the stanchion, I figured I had about 25mm to work with before the tire would hit the inside of the fender on full compression, so shouldn't be a problem moving the fender out of the way instead of heating it and trying to shape it to avoid the HEED's. The fender has several angles to stiffen it so not even sure it would've been possible. Also not sure what kind of plastic it's made from and how it would react to heat.

    Using an old cutting board (nylon), I made a spacer with four holes for the screws to lower the fender, hoping it'd move it far enough. It turned out approximately 80mm wide and 60mm long.

    [​IMG]

    The cutting board happened to be 9,2mm thick and that was almost enough, but the fender was still scraping the HEED's so I had to add two 1,5mm washers to the rear to tilt it out a little bit.

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    The gap is now 2-3mm

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    The left hand side is set a little further back and out from the bike than the right hand side, which also seems to be set a fraction higher. I'm thinking the angle it's mounted causes it to be closer and higher = the bars are identical, but the mounts are not welded at precisely the same angles. The angle of the camera is probably messing up the perception, but I hope you get the idea.

    They may be designed to stay on while performing a service, but it is not possible to get the side panels on without manipulating them. They will probably be scuffed over time.

    [​IMG]
  4. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    Just for you, Donny :lol3

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  5. tkach

    tkach Been here awhile

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    Some shit just can’t take mongolian interstates. Fucking fucks.
    260km of sandy woops.
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  6. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    Broken mounts?
    Hope you're able to get it rewelded soon.

    That's why I'm suspicious and tentative to most aftermarket "bling" on sale today - will they work off the pavement and for how long? All the Touratech stuff that when they started up in the '90s were built for the job of RTW-ing, is now just thin aluminium mostly designed for show and tell.
    Afraid my Barkbuster LED lights will break the first time they hit the ground, but the bling factor trap worked :fpalm
  7. tkach

    tkach Been here awhile

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    Yeah, part of the tube through which the bolt goes into the frame cracked off. Since i was riding at the time by the time i safely stopped the whole thing snapped the lower mount, toggled a bit on the led light wiring and fell on the ground.
    I had a spare bolt for the lower mount, as for the frame one it’s now holding via a baggage thing with 2 more going over the faux tank to the opposite bar.
    Not sure this could be welded back, we’ll see.
    Bars lived through a lot, but pamir and mongolia killed it. Kudos to Aurora for making solid wiring in their lights, especially since it’s china firm.
    Will post picture later.


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  8. Gedrog

    Gedrog Long timer

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  9. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    Brake hose;

    Straight end with swivel toward the master - copper washer or not?

    The threads are M10 so the washer has to be 10mm, but the base of the swivel is only 8mm so it really awkward centering the washer. I'm leaning toward no washer.

    The hose didn't come with washers at all even though the other end is a regular banjo.
  10. LarsE

    LarsE Adventurer

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    Guess I'll have to take my airbox off soon then. Mine's currently stranded at work because it wouldn't fire and killed the battery. Again.
  11. sraff

    sraff Been here awhile

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    I may have to rethink fabing up fuel tanks to mount on the heed bars. Initially I was going to mount a tank where the right side exhaust goes, but then decided I'd rather save that space for some lite weight storage and move the weight forward. I recently found the thread on the hasenwerk ? tanks. That's exactly what I had drawn for my bike but he's no longer producing them. Now I have some things to ponder, will the heed bars hold 10lbs per side, or should I go back to hanging 20lbs on the rear???
    Love the Mongolian interstates, looks like that washboard might require dental insurance. :-)
  12. sraff

    sraff Been here awhile

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    I just noticed in the top foto, your bike REALLY doesn't like using the side stand. :D
  13. riverflow

    riverflow Project P̶r̶o̶c̶r̶a̶s̶t̶i̶n̶a̶t̶o̶r̶ Finisher

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    Gravel Seeker, Gedrog and -spam- like this.
  14. Gedrog

    Gedrog Long timer

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    Over the years I have looked at various solutions to carry extra fuel

    I like the heeds but just wished it had some eyelets so you can securely strap the Desert Fox or other fuel Bladders to it
    Combine the heeds with the OEM some Eyelets welded to them and you can hang 10 litres of fuel low down for technical sections you strap then between the top and the bottom of the heeds
    The dreadybear solution
    Carrying fuel.jpg
    The SW-Motec options to close together the bottom of the bags flaps wildly causing the bike to be a bit unstable when that 10KG start wobbling
    SW-Motec.jpg
    The Mexican affair probably the closest to getting the weight low down but I would have prefered to see the rear protection bar go further back to pull the bags away from the front wheel, almost perfect weld some eyelets on that and you will be good to go
    Mexican crashbars.jpg
    Or finally ignoring the TT tank a custom job
    The custom.jpg
  15. Gedrog

    Gedrog Long timer

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    OK take my wallet a G310 I might consider buying for pure looks

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  16. wiz.au

    wiz.au Long timer

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    I'm intending to use rubber insulated stainless "P" clips on my Heeds. The first one to be installed will mount the Anderson Jump Start connector. I guess I could add more with 'square' stainless eyebolts for strapping things to? They would be pretty sturdy.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
  17. wiz.au

    wiz.au Long timer

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    Wondering if there's such thing as a "micro-welding tool" that runs off 12v? The Lithium battery can supply 400Amps, plenty enough for a small welding wire! :D The number of cracked DR650 frames and R1200gs frames I have seen.....

    In Australia, they are 'corrugations', and they shake all the cars and vans to pieces. Bikes generally stand up better due to the better suspension. Mythbusters did a show on it, and they came up with "Matching your speed to the frequency of the corrugations, to 'skim over the tops'" was the best 'solution'.
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    This is what we call 'whoops':
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    "Everything's bigger in Texas" :rofl
  18. tkach

    tkach Been here awhile

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    Fucking fucks
    What do you guys think, pump/seals/tubes/radiator...
    Sump guard all in antifreeze, weep hole pretty dirty
    [​IMG]


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  19. wiz.au

    wiz.au Long timer

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    First thing, are you loosing/using much coolant from the white plastic coolant tank on top of the radiator? If the tank is empty (might take a cool down cycle, or two, to really know?) then yes, you have a problem that needs to be investigated.

    If you are not loosing coolant, and the bike is not overheating, then this can be looked at later when you get a chance, as most likely it's a small leak that just looks bad due to being spread everywhere by the airflow, as they do.

    But my guess, given everything above it is dry, it's the 'standard' water pump seal/shaft we all go through. (I'm on my 3rd!)

    Could be a weeping cracked bottom hose, but it's protected pretty well from any physical damage and I've never heard of them just going bad. Mines 14 years old with over 106,000kms and it's still fine. But I have had hoses develop 'pinholes' in them.

    If you get a chance, wash it, wipe it dry, clean it as best you can, and then idle the bike till warm (fan on) and see what comes out, if anything.

    I'm not sure it's worth putting a pressure tester on the radiator to simulate operating pressure. But if you did find access to one, it would tell you if you have a serious problem or not, by how fast the gauge drops after pumping it up to pressure. If it just drops really slowly, or not at all, = no problem. If you pump it up and the gauge drops within seconds, (and you will have a puddle of coolant somewhere) you have a problem.
  20. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    @wiz.au was it you that had the straight swivel fittings instead of a banjo on the pump end of the brake hose?

    The ones I got from HEL doesn't fit our Brembo masters. Not sure if I simply chose the wrong fitting(s) - (on three different hoses), or if the Brembo unit simply doesn't allow for straight swivel fittings?

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    Looks like the tip of the pipe/ hose isn't sealing inside the reservoir so fluid just flows between the pipe and the swivel. It screws all the way in without resistance, so fairly sure it's not reaching the bottom.

    A copper washer does nothing of course since it's not sealing in the correct place.
    Is there some sort of internal seal I need? Would a simple O-ring work or will it deform and block the hose? Is it even brake fluid proof?

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