The 650 Dakar Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by underwaterguru, Mar 10, 2009.

  1. tkach

    tkach Been here awhile

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    Ffs, dunno
    There’s plenty in the white tank. Cleaned it and will get it running in idle and see what happens.
    There’s no coffee in the oil tank, sorta a good sight.
    I was stuck in traffic in ulanbaator, maybe that got it heated, but then again no over heated light went on
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


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  2. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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  3. tkach

    tkach Been here awhile

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    Didnt have to wait for the fan, weep hole leaking.
    Seals? Any thoughts?
    [​IMG]


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  4. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    1. Sure that's fluid in the tank and not just traces of the color?
    2. Is that the same color underneath the dirt on the clutch cover(?)? Or is it just a reflection from something else?

    I'm leaning towards worn water pump shaft at this time.
    Every time mine has overheated the light has come on fairly quickly. With a leak somewhere, air will enter the system and the boiling coolant will evaporate into that air and the steam will set off the sensor. The steam is hotter than the coolant. At least that's how I imagine the turn of events.
  5. tkach

    tkach Been here awhile

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    No thats coolant in there.
    I changed the shaft like 25k ago, in february
    Dont have a new shaft with me, just the old one that didn’t leak but i just changed it and new seals.

    I forget, laying the bike on the RHS should prevent anything from leaking out, right?


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  6. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    It think it would, if you've done the oil return line mod (looks like you have). That's the whole point as far as I recall. Do you have a spare clutch cover gasket?
    But you have to drain the coolant first.

    You could try the method of replacing just the seals, like the video @NahdarVebb (?) posted showed last week. Use two screws to pull the old seals off the shaft. You'd need double lip seals and it'd only work if the old seals were single lip. I wouldn't call it a permanent fix, but should last long enough to get you to a place where you could replace it.

    Think this is a reminder to everyone to do the oil return line mod before a long trip and carry a spare water pump kit and clutch cover gasket.
  7. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    Penny tech-ish, just thought I'd share
    When I made some mesh grills for the radiator ages ago, I had to drill some holes in side of the shroud to get to the screws. The grills are no longer mounted, but the holes serve me very well and makes life a lot easier.

    [​IMG]
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  8. tkach

    tkach Been here awhile

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    Yeah, i got the oil line mod.
    I’m thinking that it’s the seal on the coolant side, since if it were both then they’d mix...
    Okay, drain the coolant
    Lay the bike on the rhs
    Gently remove the clutch cover without fucking up the gasket
    Remove shaft (forget how though)
    Insert new seal
    Put everything back
    Get new coolant in
    Forget anything?


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  9. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    Shouldn't be harder than that. Better have a back up plan ready in case you do fuck up the gasket....
    I'd replace the shaft with the spare you brought along, or at least use the least worn one. And replace both seals.
    The shaft is easy to remove and intuitive to take apart AFAI can recall (impeller is just held on with a pin through the shaft).
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  10. tkach

    tkach Been here awhile

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    [​IMG]
    Now the fun part...


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  11. tkach

    tkach Been here awhile

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    Brain dead
    Are the seals aliened the right way?
    [​IMG]


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  12. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    Perhaps that is why you fit in round here :imaposer
    Yes the faces go together in the centre if that makes sense, bit brain dead myself so hope I made it clear
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  13. nepbug

    nepbug Adventurer

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    Just wanted to give a quick hello to everyone. I recently bought my 01 Dakar and I figure I should start reading through this thread to help familiarize myself with the nuances of these bikes.

    Lots of chatter out here, 1270 pages so far, even reading 10 pages a night it will take me 4+ months to get caught up. I'm sure it's all gold standard subject matter though ;) . I should be caught up by spring, so that times out well.
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  14. wiz.au

    wiz.au Long timer

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    I didn't get 'swivel', I got 'fixed'. But I see the problem.

    Unfortunately I do not have an instant answer for you on this. It's obvious the swivel mates at the 45Deg surface on the tip of the connector, and the master cylinder must not have that face, or it is too deep into the thread. On the straight version it mates on the nut surface and is completely sealed with a copper crush washer, like the banjo does, but the swivel connector will leak through the swivel if the 45Deg face is not making good contact.

    Putting an extra washer in is actually making it worse as you are moving the 45Deg surface further away from the face in the master cylinder.

    The only thing I can think of at the moment is a short fixed male - fixed female adapter between the master and the new hose?

    If the Master Cylinder does have a 45Deg mating face inside the thread, but the thread is just too long for the face to meet, then taking material off the master cylinder so the thread is shorter and the 45deg faces meet would be a solution? But I worry the master cylinder is soft alloy and the fitting is hard steel, and you will stuff the face on the master eventually, which will be unrepairable.

    The short adapter would be the go, and I recall seeing that on some vehicles and now know why.

    The other option is send the hoses back and get them changed for fixed connectors. I can attest they work, but wonder now if I have done something 'dodgy' and this is why they use the banjo and bolt fittings on the alloy Master Cylinder. My hose isn't mating on the 45Deg surface that it should, and I'm relying on the thread, hex head and a copper sealing washer that is not actually designed to be the sealing face.
  15. Gedrog

    Gedrog Long timer

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    Yeah I looked at that as an option there is pro's and cons to it all, the P-clips I fitted on my SA bike seemed to have held up pretty well
    p-clips.jpg
    I have considered these with the P-clips but as always there is the durability but I can probably carry a couple of spares with some small Nylock nuts and bolts should make a secure fitting
    s-l1600 (1).jpg
  16. Gedrog

    Gedrog Long timer

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    Now all you need is the red brake pipes, was it a straight fit or did you have to modify we did discuss it briefly?
  17. Gedrog

    Gedrog Long timer

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    Welcome to the fun house
  18. Gedrog

    Gedrog Long timer

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    I see now the bubbling of the paint on the stator looks weird like it suffered some third degree burns at some point :kboom
  19. Gedrog

    Gedrog Long timer

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    That old saying if it aint broke dont fix it.:wink::hide
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  20. Renaissanceman

    Renaissanceman DON'T PANIC!

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    Is it just me, or is it not possible to find a rebuild kit for our rear master cylinder in this country?
    I see the one at motorworks in the U.K., but I'm not finding anything here.
    Anyone?


    2003 Dakar - 118,000 miles and going strong!