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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by underwaterguru, Mar 10, 2009.
That's fucking genius
The recessed/ counterbored bolt holes in the disc doesn't really make a difference, right ?
I reckon I can buy Pegaso discs and just add washers to my OEM bolts or get hold of 12 (2x6) bolts with recessed heads ?
The recessed holes may prevent fitting the ABS ring, that is all I can think of and I suspect I can hear you say I dont need or have any F...ING ABS crap
As for genius, no just Ozzy, you been there, know what I mean, now where is a red dust puddle to roll round in
You're right, I don't ahve ABS, but not because I don't need that fucking crap - my bike's too old. They didn't offer ABS in 2001, but I believe it cames as standard from 2002 or 03 over here.
There are 3 variations on the ABS, the first 2 for the 650GS are regarded as crap by some because you have to stop to turn it on/off. They even have different wiring harnesses on these first 2 so it cant be retrofitted as far as I know, my 2002 is like yours, no ABS and hey stepping the rear out when you make a mistake is all part of the fun isnt it ?
The first 2 production years of the Dakar didn't have ABS, that's right, but the normal F650GS had the ABS Option available right away.
And the ABS has always been optional, but later on it was so cheap that only a very few people bought the bikes without it.
EDIT: My th post.
And it's a smartass post.
So I shorted out my harness and it melted at the connection to my ABS unit. I'm looking at removing the abs and replacing the harness with a new one. The bms-c losks in good shape to the naked eye with no damage to the plug. I removed the cover plate and as far as i can tell, the circuit board looks clean and in good shape.
I am wondering, does anyone have any advice on how difficult it is to replace the harness?
Removing the abs seems straightforward as long as I get a non-abs harness.
Tips, thoughts? Am I crazy to attempt this?
Well it is a bit of work, out of interest what exactly do you mean by "I shorted out my harness" ?
It means someone wasn't paying attention doing a jump start and clipped the negative cable to the wrong bolt on the bike and shorted it out; melted some leads to the battery and the plug to the abs sensor.
The bike ran after the incident, but suspecting things were not right, I dug a bit deeper and found the abs plug was melted along with the negative battery cable. All the diodes and fuses were okay.
That will likely mean it is only the wiring bundle between the electrical box around the RHS which splits and goes to ABS/BMS and the starter motor is damaged, you could probably unwrap that section of the harness, repair and recover without complete harness replacement. Post up the pic's we love destruction, promise we wont be too hard on the comments
Would be worth unwrapping to look at what was carrying the current and which wires had insulation melted as a result.
There is a thread on advrider by Dwayne describing unwrapping that section to relocate his battery to under the seat it may help you
If you do attempt it it would be worth rewrapping the harness with the main power leads in a separate bundle
I'm thinking about taking the ABS off my Dakar, to lose weight and add under-seat storage. Looked for a thread,since I'm sure it's been done, but couldn't find one. IIRC, I'll need a new front brake line, rear too? And what else?
I did mine last year and haven't regretted it for a minute.
First of all, when removing the ABS modulator unit, I'd highly recommend removing the gas tank/subframe assembly to make it easier to get to. I didn't and spent the better part of two hours first taking the ABS modulator apart and removing in two pieces.
And yes, you need a new rear brake line. I ordered the non-ABS version for about $25 from MAX BMW.
Also, you'll have to jump a couple of wires in the connector to the ABS modulator to make the speedometer work because it reads off the rear wheel ABS ring. There's a "how-to" at the end of this document.
The only other thing you need to do is remove the bulb for the ABS in the instrument cluster. Otherwise it'll be flashing all the time the bike is turned on. You may also want to disconnect the ABS switch on the handlebars as well.
GSBS, that procedure at the end of my doc does work ?, was hoping someone could confirm if it was correct
The thing which mystifies me is that the dash lamp does not flash on non-ABS machines which have a different wiring harness. Suggests to me that there is a wire in the non-ABS harness supplying 12v (I suspect) to the ABS input to the dash. Have not had time to follow it up and work it out
Worked fine for me. That was almost 12K miles ago.
I decided to post this at the tail end of an older thread instead of starting a new one...
I've been playing around with lightening my bike and improving performance for some time. Posted many times of the 650 Dakar thread.
I've made my own 1" lift dogbones which started out as 7075Aluminum (See pic)
which was too brittle and then the 6061 Aluminum which has been great. Enjoyed the whole setup for a few years and then pre-ran the 2011 KotW Rally with notmybikemodelname and destroyed my WP rear shock. Snapped the clevis pin and did another Mcgyver rig to ride it 250 miles back to Tonapah, NV.
Sent it to Trailtricks to fix and he had it for 6 months and finally said he couldn't get parts for it. He's gone and so is the shock so I ended up buying a used OEM Dakar shock a year ago. No problems with the shock, but it dropped the seat height of my bike, so I raised the WP forks in the clamps to compensate. Never been a good set up and the geometry of the bike is wrong for off-road. I spent some time researching options and contacted EPM PERFORMANCE who got back to me right away!
Very good customer service and prices. Spoke to Klaus on the phone and he gave me some options. Decided to send the WP forks in for new springs and service, ordered this unit (Sans preload ajuster...never used mine much) with a ride height increase of 1.5" to bring the bike back up. I'm 6'1" and liked the tall seat.
So measured the sag, compression, static, stroke of all my existing suspension, and dropped the forks to ship to EPM in New Jersey.
More to come when the suspension comes back. Going to be selling the Dakar shock if anyone is interested PM me.
This pictured shock has a preload adjuster.
As a matter of interest, what does it have instead of the preload adjuster? Ring nuts? Is the preload still adjustable, just not as easily?
I'll post up a pic tomorrow. (Its already tomorrow) Purple dial is high-speed compression adjustment and gold dial is low-speed. The preload doesn't have a dial adjuster anymore, but I never felt the need for one.
BTW the Showa shock is for sale in the Fleamarket:
Here's the shocks side-by-side:
The longer Hyperpro went in just fine. I have 1" ride height increase dogbones but if it's too tall, I can go back to the stockers and drop it.
Thinking I may have fucked up....
Couple of weeks ago I was posting alot about different wheels and ended up bidding on a 19'' front 650 Aprilia Pegaso wheel. Winning bid was £35,- and it was mine
It arrived today so I wasn't screwed by some scumbag online thief, but it looks like crap though - guess you can't expect much for $53, but it certainly looked better in the eBay pic....it's clearly been winter ridden
I'll get that cleaned up later in the spring, more concerning though is that I'm not sure it'll fit...
Left hand side - Brake disc/ rotor side:
Anyone know if it'll fit ?
What are these pins ? I've never studied mine, but I'm pretty sure those aren't on the OEM 21'' that came with my bike
Do I just need new bearings ?
Drop me a pm if you are selling your dogbones.. Been wanting to increase my rear. Cannot afford on a new shock at the moment.
Btw your sycl batt rocks... My riding buddies keep asking when is the next group buy...