The 650 Dakar Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by underwaterguru, Mar 10, 2009.

  1. Killswitch924

    Killswitch924 Adventurer

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    Thanks for all the responses! Will be ordering a braided line shortly.

    I did think about cutting it and doing that short length of soft line but it just (and this is strictly my opinion here) wasn't a clean fix. I'm all about using Macgyver methods but that just looked like a failure point to me.

    Either way, thanks for all the links to guys that are making these things and selling them etc! Much appreciated.
  2. BeachGuy

    BeachGuy Lost in paradise!

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    Before you spend the big bucks on a pretty oil return line, myself and many, many others have used the $2.00 splice kit (home made) and I don't know anybody that's had a failure. Sure makes it easier to replace the water pump kit or do a clutch basket change out in the future.
  3. Renaissanceman

    Renaissanceman DON'T PANIC!

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    Yup, the oil return is low pressure - no danger of any failure.

    Bling away!
  4. Killswitch924

    Killswitch924 Adventurer

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    Ok cool deal. I just refilled it with oil lastnight after the seal replacement so I'll do a little research and decide what I want to do and then replace it at the next oil change. Thanks for all the input!
  5. TobyG

    TobyG be happy :)

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    Waiwaitwait....
    but if you just cut the line and replace a small part of it with some rubber line, don't you still have to drain the oil if you have to remove the clutch basket?
    Or can you like "bend it out of the way" far enough without draining?
  6. Killswitch924

    Killswitch924 Adventurer

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    I have no idea. I looked through that whole PDF that Wayne set up (hugely helpful btw, thanks) and a bunch of stuff on f650.com and decided to make my own steel braided line. I just like that its done, you route it out of the way and don't have to bother with it again.
    I was able to find everything on summitracing.com except the banjo adapter/fitting which I was able to find from an American website that was selling the same fittings as UK. Pretty sure it's an Earl's fitting still, looks the same, just couldn't order the Earls one to the US.
    Thanks again
  7. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    I would add your oil line build into the pdf if you post up the info, remember pictures tell a 1000 stories
  8. Killswitch924

    Killswitch924 Adventurer

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    Alright, I'll keep all the info on where I got everything as well. I'm on my phone now but I can give you links to all the parts when I get to a computer.
  9. Don Coyote

    Don Coyote Long timer

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    I took the wheel back to the shop. It took them a bit longer than i would have expected and this time when the gave it back there was visible lube all over the sidewalls. The guy said they had to wrestle with it and "pump it way up to 45 PSI", but it finally seated better. Although the ring still isn't perfectly symetrical around the rim it is much closer. He thought i might have been shipped a bad one, but now it feels buttery smooth. I've only been riding around the city so far.
  10. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Thomas

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    Can't wait for the new wheel to arrive so I can order tires.... gonna swap the T63's on the extra wheel set at the same time....the set I'm running has now gone almost 10.000km and it's cracking all around the knobs and the front is badly stepped now. Been running 99,% asfalt with high pressure, so no wonder they've starting to go.... 'll make a huge dent in the wallet, but should even out with better grip, smoother ride and even better milage with daily commuting and use the knobs for when they are needed...on the weekends off the highway
  11. Killswitch924

    Killswitch924 Adventurer

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    Parts showed up in the mail today. Without taking them out and checking everything in the bike, initial inspection would indicate that they will all work just fine.
    When it comes time to change the oil again I'll have more info as I'll actually install it at that point.

    Here are the parts and links to where I got them:
    (The hardest part to find is the banjo fitting, I paid an arm and a leg for it, if you can find it cheaper definitely share that info, other than that, everything can come from www.summitracing.com )

    Steel braided oil line (3ft - will need to cut to length once I have measured and decided where to route it):
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230803/overview/

    Fragola Hose end - Straight (If you like colorful things, just use the same part number without the "BL":
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-220108-bl

    Fragola Hose end - 90 degree (same thing on the colorful thingys):
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-229008-bl

    Summit Racing -8 Barb to -8 Adapter:
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220757



    And finally, the elusive banjo fitting - 8AN to 16mm Single Banjo adapter:
    I found mine at www.pegasusautoracing.com
    PART #: 3265-50
    This link may take you directly to it if it works:
    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=6735

    I don't believe I saved any money over just buying it from anyone of the other guys that are making them, this was just the quicker way for me to get everything and it allows me to customize the routing as I choose. Hope that helps someone out. I'll put some pictures up as soon as it is assembled fully.
    Here are all the parts though:
    [​IMG]


    Chris
  12. twinrider

    twinrider pass the catnip

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    Has anyone tried to fit the new Vario cases from the Sertao onto an earlier F650GS/D? They are listed as being only for the 11s on, but I can't see much difference with the back end design of the earlier bikes or mounts.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  13. tug

    tug Adventurer

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    Ok so I have a 2003 Dakar. So far the mods have been modest.
    • 15 T front sprocket
    • Progressive front spring and emulators
    • Sasquatch rear shock rebuild (needs replaced)
    • Pivot pegs (love them)
    • Seat concept seat (nice)
    • Touratech License tail brace (Just installed well worth it)
    Anyway I took my first big trip on it last September. On the last leg of the trip I experiance my first disappointment of the bike. I had to go from LA to Los Cruses, NM on I 10(815 miles) in one day. My mileage dropped way down. I was only getting 180 -190 miles per tank. In my Houston test I was getting 230 before running dry. The bike had to be ran at wide open throttle to to try to keep 70 MPH. It made it but I was disappointed with the performance. Since then I have been searching threads for performance upgrades and contemplating replaceing it with a 800GS or Xc.

    Well two days ago I ran across a thread that recommend removing the metal sleeve on the spark plug boot. So I went out to my garage and there it was. So I pulled the plug wire off the plug and took the sleeve of the wire. The only problem I had was part of the sparkplug boot stayed with the metal sleeve. Once I realised the piece was in it I simply removed from the metal sleeve and replaced on the boot.

    Today was the first time I had a chance to ride it. WOW what a difference! No lugging off the line and it ran up to 80 MPH no problem.

    This mod is probably metioned somewhere in this tread but I haven't seen it.

    It's a differnent bike. Hopefully this will help others.

    Tug
  14. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    Yes, removed the shroud very early due problems and since then have changed the ignition circuit completely

    It sounds like you were losing most of the spark to earth, in my case it showed up with hesitation on acceleration in wet weather
  15. brown84

    brown84 n00b

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    03 Dakar. I tried searching but could not find specifics. I ordered Givi top case and sidecase racks. Is there a recommended installation for which one to install first? I actually installed the top case first since I received it first.

    After seeing that the rear mounts screw into the same holes for the sidecase racks, I'm wondering if I should have installed the sidecase racks first. Seems like a tight fit. Ran out of daylight and dont have a garage. Does anyone have any experience which rack to install first? I hope to get this done tomorrow during the day. Thanks!
  16. twinrider

    twinrider pass the catnip

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    I don't think it really matters but you may as well do the side racks first...
  17. tomatoe333

    tomatoe333 Long timer

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    If you put the topcase rack on without the sidecase rack, there are a pair of spacer washers that go behind the two screws that attach the rear supports to the bike.

    All you have to do to get the sidecase rack crosspiece to attach there is remove those washers and put the crosspiece in place of them. Put it in place loosely, then fit the rest of the side racks up to the bike. Once it all lines up, tighten up all the fasteners.
  18. brown84

    brown84 n00b

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    Great advice. I'll give it a try thanks!
  19. Madscientist

    Madscientist Adventurer

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    [FONT=&quot]I’m a long time lurker in need of your expertise diagnosing a problem on my 05 non-Dakar F650GS (18K miles). I note the following.

    1: Within the last six months, I noticed at startup in the morning it would idle for about 10 sec then die; it did this on a regular basis in the morning, whereas it had previously not done this, but I didn’t think too much about it because it usually fired up on the second try and ran fine.

    [/FONT]<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]-->[FONT=&quot]2: About 2 months ago I noticed an occasional electrical issue: After starting, the neutral light, the lights to the speedo and tach, and headlight would flicker erratically, as though there was a loose electrical connection. I only observed this when starting the bike in the morning, not when re-starting it after riding. Battery connections were tight.
    [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]3: On a few occasions when this occurred, the ABS light also began to flash on and off (not the erratic flickering, but actually flashing as though the ABS had been disabled).
    [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]4: Additionally, the left/right blinker would flash at an abnormally high rate when triggered (but only occasionally did this) for a turn.[/FONT]

    Initially, none of these issues affected the bike’s performance when riding.

    [FONT=&quot]5: After this electrical issue one morning, within a minute of riding the ABS light started flashing and the tachometer needle pegged at 8K rpm, although the actual engine rpm seemed normal. :huh As I slowed the tach decreased, but remained much higher than the true engine speed. I pulled the bike off the road, where it proceeded to die, but it restarted fine, and the tach was normal (reading the typical 1.5-1.7K rpm at idle), and I had no further issues that day.[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot]Fast forward a month: BMW dealer Memphis performed 18K service, but could not reproduce the problem, and did not find any obvious electrical issues. FWIW, the only change to the electrical system at this service was replacement of the headlight bulb.[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot]6: At the dealer, it fired right up, but within 10min of riding, it hesitated/lurched/lost power, and the tach pinned at 8K rpm (but didn’t die). :fpalm I pull over, and watch as the tach settled at 3-3.5K rpm, despite the engine idling at normal 1.5-1.7K rpm. I restarted, and it ran fine all the way home (80 miles).
    [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]7: Next morning, bike had flickering light syndrome and ABS flashing at startup. On the highway (within a few min of starting), it hesitated/lurched/lost power and the tach needle pegged at 8K rpm (I think the ABS light also started flashing). I stopped, and at idle the tach was hovering 3.5K rpm. Restarted it, and tach was normal, but the problem recurred three more times :baldy (I don’t believe the ABS light flashed) within the next 10 minutes. After last restart, the bike ran fine for the next 1.5 hours I rode.[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot] I lack knowledge of motorcycle maintenance (other than oil and tire changes), but from some reading at f650.com, I thought perhaps it could be a rectifier problem, so I tested the battery voltage (this was about a month before taking the bike to the dealer).[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot]I recorded the following:[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot]initial, bike off: 12.7V[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot] ignition on, bike not started: 10.9V[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot]bike at initial idle (where on this occasion it did not have flickering light problem): mostly 13.9-14.0V, but it did fluctuate from 13.5 to 14.1V

    [/FONT][FONT=&quot]after the bike was warmed up (about 10min) without the fan on: 14.0-14.1 V- seemed to not fluctuate as much once warmed up[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot]after 10min warm up, fan on: 13.3-13.6V
    [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]revved to 3K rpm: 13.6-13.7 V (didn’t look to see if fan was on at this point)[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot]bike off: 13.1 V[/FONT]

    To me, these data did not indicate a rectifier problem, but I'm all ears to see if others agree :ear

    [FONT=&quot]One last note: I replaced the battery May 2012 with a MotoBat AGM. [/FONT]

    I'm ready to be educated :deal. Thoughts?
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  20. divimon2000

    divimon2000 Been here awhile

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    Did you check wiring Lomb chafe above the shock bracket ?