Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by iswoolley, Aug 23, 2004.
It is a 93 RDO7.
What is the difference in the "A's"
Great information. I will use it as a power source. Pretty light wire it would seem . I got the Mosfet wired in last night and I am charging the battery fully before I complete the install so i can use the multi meter and check the sytem everywhere.
I know the "non As" have a bit more power.
I'm sure someone with more knowledge will surely fill you in.
Nevetheless, the info I posted about the extra reg/rec wire still holds true.
The reason I asked your bike's year model was to check the appropriate service book.
Good deal. I appreciate the resources you have to offer. Amazing help.
Interesting - can you share this information in numbers?
I was always under the impression that all the 750 engines (RD04, RD07, RD07A) put out the same power at 61bhp (45.5kW) at 7500rpm, and 61Nm torque at 6000rpm
On my RD07A I had to connect the ground wire directly to the battery. The positive wire off the reg/rec goes straight to the battery via the bike's 30A main fuse, but the negative wanders through the loom.
I measured the bikes charging voltage at the battery posts and it read lower than 14 V with the mosfet reg/rec wired as per the old shunt-type reg/rec. I then soldered an eyelet terminal of the appropriate size to a piece of wire of the adequate gauge, attched it to the negative battery post, spliced and soldered the other end to the reg/rec's connector (loom side) and then measured the charging voltage at the same place under the same conditions. It was now a bit higher, 14,1 V in my case; without the ground direct connection, I was reading only 13,7V... the service book for the RD07A states the following for checking the charging voltage:
-Engine at operating temperature
-Low beams on
-Voltage at battery posts should be between 14 and 15 V
For the '93 RD07, the test conditions are the same except the service book does not indicate the need for the low beams to be on... nevertheless, I would measure the charging voltage with the bike at the normal operating conditions and if in your country the traffic law has you riding a bike with the headligths' low beams on, then that's how you should check the charging voltage.
I hope that helps.
Will check this for you.
At last here we have new Africa Twin. Thank You Mr. Honda. http://www.designboom.com/weblog/ca...da-motor-compo-foldable-electric-scooter.html
Soichiro died in 1991.
Aimless wandering in design and racing support since.
Here is a pic of the mod installed.
I ran the positive and negative direct to the battery and then the three wires from the stator had to be lengthened so I crimped in the extra wire. I wired in the 30amp fuse that came with the kit and you can see it in the red rubber boot just before I went in to the battery box. Simple enough mod really. I am getting over 14 at the battery with it sitting and a little less with it running but not much. At idle it is higher and at a few thousand rpm it drops slightly.
Just got to do some electrical tape work and secure the wires and I am good to go.
Thanks for all the help fellas. Cheers
nice Reidy . I would heatshrink the connections
did it 1 month ago. Getting 14.7-14.8V. At idle however, goes down into the 13..
cold up here so handwarmers are on+++ >>>>>14.4v
suspect that the battery will be in the not distant future...
Hi Reidy...posting your pic i assume you want an opinion? It's not how i would wire my mosfet in. Too many butt splices which if the crimper is sub-standard it can lead to further problems of high resistance should they vibrate loose or from corrosion. I would have ordered in sealed connectors and wiring harness as req'd from Jim over at Eastern Beaver..
...and further soldering for best results. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/E...ors/R_R_Connectors/MP280_Help/mp280_help.html
I personally like and would only use a plug connector/solder for the stator harness however as an alternative i would only solder and heat shrink those wires as opposed to butt splicing. Just my 2 cents. I'm sure yours will be fine but i would not gaurantee a butt splice over time especially from a stator where higher resistance from a poor connection and with no waterproofing will only lead to problems. I would also like to see 14.0 vdc or better yet 14.5 vdc at the minimum when at idle with this type of R/R. I get 14.5 vdc with mine at idle and that is with an old style R/R.
in Austria we have two different HP on the 750 engines: 50 HP and 60 HP as the germany modell has.
The Austrian Modell has a different camshaft and a different intake with a smaller diameter.
The RD07A Modell has a different Ignition and a throttle Sensor, a different Frontlight.
here a Picture from my mosfet installation on the RD07 Bj. 1994
I think it is important to connect the three yellow wires from the alternator with one waterproof connector, otherwise you have too many sources of errors
Maybe it is better to make the yellow wires from the mosfet to the wires from the alternator long enough for one connector.
Mate this looks like total shit.... who does your work. I would fire my guy if he put out finish results like this....
Just kidding of course. That is one sweet ass job. I think when I have time I will have to do some better work but for right now I need to ride it so I am wrapping everything in electrical tape and rolling down the road. Just how us Aussie's do it.
Further, the RD07 has air valves on its fork legs and adjustable rear shock softness.
The fastening bracket for the exhaust is also somewhat different when comparing to the 07A.
The carbs are jetted differently, with a larger jet for cooling (?) of the rear cylinder on the 07.
The Golden rims of the RD07 is another obvious difference to the more recent 07A's as is the differences in looks of the front cowl.
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
I have a few Pics more
i use this connectors for the 3 yellow alternator wires from Eastern Beaver
crimped and soldered connectors
and the voltage measurement
idle 900rpm with all Lights on
3000rpm with all Lights on
That's what i'm talking about.......good job Twinmike.
In your pic there is a green connector that slots into a bracket with another connector next to it in the bracket. What does the second connector go to as my bike has that slot open?
it was the place for the original connector for the three yellow wires from alternator