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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by iswoolley, Aug 23, 2004.
Mazinger,that is a beautiful motorcycle!
I'm not certain what the laws are like in Oregon. Many states only register a motorcycle by frame number and ignore the engine number. You'd have to check
The differences between the RD04 frame and a Transalp frame are negligible. It's only a matter of minor brackets for rear brake master cylinders and things like that that may require a bit of welding. You'd have your old RD04 frame to use as a template.
If it were me, I'd search for a salvaged Transalp, refurbish the frame, hang all your RD04 parts on it and register it as a Transalp. Stick a Transalp sticker or two on it and take it to a DMV office in some small town. I'd bet that would work.
The Oregonians will be able to tell you if engine number is important or not.
[The Oregonians will be able to tell you if engine number is important or not.[/QUOTE]
Hi Ray, hope you enjoy your "other" bike :)
i recall frme number is all they looked at ...
for insurance purpose i just added a bunch of zeros to make it 17 numbers on the VIN and voila.
Keith, we re in Portland, so i m sure we ll hook up somehow !!
I've never had to register a bike from scratch, so maybe this is a stupid question, but if it is stamped as an XLV on frame and motor in such a way that looks legitimate, couldn't he try to register it as an XLV? Surely they wouldn't know the difference in some small town. And if someone accused you of a felony for tampering with the VIN because they recognized that it's an AT, just tell them you swapped frames with an XLV...
The VIN plate being gone may make things difficult...
I can't help you with what is needed to register in Oregon, but I live in a small town in Kansas, and what they wanted to see was the number stamped onto the headstock of the frame, the factory plate was nice, but they didn't care.
Nobody here has any idea what is an Africa Twin, so they just put my bike in the closest category they could find in their system- with my help. I guided them to the TransAlp - but this one is a 750. Job done...
Wish I could tell you more.
Little ride in Sud France :
<iframe width="760" height="515" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/x7Tsd3y9_4A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Everyone thank you for all of your words of wisdom. Another question I have is, is what kind of paperwork was required for the registering and titiling process. The reason I ask is because first of all everything is in Thai and second they use a book type system that basically lists the owner as well as previous owners. Ideally it would be the best for me if I didn't need this stuff from Thailand, just getting it all done at the DMV would be perfect but like I said I don't know. I wonder if there is anyone there in the Portland metro area that is willing to make a trip to the DMV for me and ask these questions, for the price.of a 12 pack or more if that is the going price. Basically I.would love to get my Twin back to the states without too much trouble. I will be putting the bike as parts into a continer and then once home put it back together. Now comes the real problems, what is necessary to get it registered and titled. Worst case I guess I could build a TransAlp but if I can keep the Twin that would be the best
Thanks for all the help in advance
All: Thank you for your replies regarding the RD04 emissions plate. SD Splash
Looked like fun. Thanks for posting.
Hi there, what screen is that?
I'm looking for a taller one for my 7a but can't decide....
So you got an RD04 and you are selling that NICE Transalp. Can't wait to see what you do with the AT.
This is a Powerbronze screen.
To my oponion by far the best screen for the RD07A
After a decade of ownership, I've noticed that my bike has 'evolved' a little since new...
Sup folks, I think my problems aren't over, I have had the new R/R on for about 3 weeks (Japanese aftermarket SUN), I even went on a daily trip 2up and had the bike at 160kph for hours and everything seemed to go swell. The voltage readings were OK and all, but last Friday on my way to my country house, about 10mins into the ride it started sputtering, having no power at first, then I believe I was going with one cylinder (I still had rpm readings on the clock but 4k sounded a lot like 2k and I remember my TA when it had a similar problem it felt the same), and then it died within 2 kms from the first hiccup. I have verified it is temperature related, if the bike sits until cold, then it's good to ride for about 10-15mins before it all starts again. It is electrical (99% sure) and the CDI is my main suspect but I don't know if the symptoms allow for more suspects.
I have a facet pump and a newish fuel filter, just stating it although the feel of the problem does not seem fuel related, I wonder if the facet could produce those symptoms or it can be safely written off the list.
Furthermore, I am a bit concerned that it might be related to the previous R/R problem but I cannot know for sure.
Can anyone think of any other reason the bike would crap-out after 10 mins running? I was not pushing it, just normal use.
Thanks for any help!
My brother had those same symptoms on his TA. It was the CDI. Fortunately this was easy to diagnose as we had a spare CDI to test with. Additionally the RD03's and TA's use two separated CDI units, so we could test each individually... I think RD04's onward use the 'single' CDI (which I believe are two CDI's merged into one housing... someone correct me if I'm wrong).
I remember there was a discussion about opening up the CDI unit and inspecting the solder points. I am not sure how applicable this is to a '00 RD07, but on TA's it's been documented that the solder joints inside the CDI's fail rather commonly. check out this link: http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/knownproblems.html Obviously only do this if you're pretty sure it's the CDI unit. I'd order a backup in any case.
Thanks for the reply, you know that feeling when you reach a place and it seems familiar? I got the same feeling when I saw the link you posted! I had read that page in the past, possibly when the TA was acting up...
Do you think the new R/R could have taken out the CDI? Or was the old one that set off the eventual failure?
There's nothing worse that electrical puzzles, and I had decided to stick to the @ to get that piece of mind of pushing the button and not worrying that the bike might not start...
EDIT: I thought about that as well, but I cannot feel any real heat being emitted from the CDI when the problem is manifesting. The R/R on the other hot is too hot to touch.
If you are completely sure that the problem is temperature related, I'd expect the problem to be the ignition triggering unit. Some ATs have these located inside the right engine case toward the front around the crankshaft. But I think the later models have them relocated outside the engine on the left......I'd have to check the parts diagrams.
Some Goldwings and a few other Hondas have had similar heat related problems with units located inside the engine case. The sending unit quits when hot (it's down in there with the engine oil) and then restarts if the bike it allowed to cool.
I'm not certain if your bike has one sending unit or two. If only one, the problem is obviously not there since you have ignition in one cylinder.
The other common fault area is the CDI. This fault can be rather random and can APPEAR to be heat related.
To test, let the bike idle or ride close to home until one cylinder drops out, then if you can keep the bike running, tap on the CDI box with a screwdriver handle. If that doesn't start up the other cylinder, try jiggling the wiring at the plug where it enters the CDI box.
The CDI fault lies with the solder joints inside on the circuit board. Commonly, the joints from the plug develop small micro-cracks that open and close the circuit at random times.
This should have nothing to do with engine temperature
Tried that on Friday and thought that it fixed it (actually I had stopped long enough to restore operation). Since Monday though I have successfully replicated the problem with small rides around and I haven't been able to revert to normal operation by jiggling, hitting, cursing at the CDI. Miraculously after X amount of time the bike is ready to go, but will present the same symptoms after some riding (shorter time if it hasn't cooled off completely).
So you are saying ignition triggering unit, is there a way to test for that?
I'm no expert, so I'm relying on my more knowledgeable AT buddies in this thread to correct me but I would expect an R/R problem to give you voltage spikes and/or drops. If you have a voltage indicator, is it giving you high or low readings? If you don't have one, you could test the voltage at the output leads of the R/R under different circumstances (idle, 3k rpm, 6k rpm) and make sure that it's not surging (or undercharging). While you're there, you can do a quick check on the input leads (to test for obvious alternator problems) and make sure the 3 phase voltage rises with increasing rpm. But your new R/R shouldn't be the cause of a CDI failure. If anything, your old R/R had time to wreck havok on your CDI before it bit the dust.
It's worth mentioning that you should check to see if your spark plug itself hasn't gone bad. Start at the source, then work your way back.
Is this the thingy?