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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Joe Bar, Sep 27, 2008.
Thanks for the info. I have mine backed off about 5-6 revolutions from stock, maybe 3-4 threads showing. This has softened it up for my bad back and the sag is just about right at 1.75 inch with my 180lb body on the bike. I've also noticed a correspondingly lower ride height and I have therefore left the ride height at its stock setting which I believe is the highest it can go.
Can anyone tell me where the ride height is set from the factory? Can you raise it from the factory height. Also can you explain how to adjust the ride height. I tried to do it recently and was unable to get anything to budge I had one open ended wrench and a cresent wrench but was afraid I might damage the larger nut if the cresent wrench slipped. Also, do you recall what size open ended wrenches are required.
15/16" and 1-1/16" fit better than metric.
The ride height is set at the highest setting as standard from the factory. If you are lowering it, you should also lower the front by the same amount. There are mid point marks on both front and rear suspension units as well.
Thanks JB, if anything I wanted to raise it a bit as I think I've lost some height by backing out the preload pretty far-three threads showing above the collar.
I've got a .pdf file for the specs and setting of the original Ohlins shock. Is there someone here that knows how to upload and post it?
The metric sizes are 24 and 27.
I had the same difficulty, not having open enders in those sizes and finding the shifters that would fit too big to manouvre easily.
That's why I used the preload adjustment method initially.
Dropping the Ohlins out the bottom makes it all very easy.
Just as a rough guide I used a small tape measure to check how much clearance there was between the top of the rear tyre and the inner guard, with the bike on the sidestand, before moving anything.
The reading was 222 mm visible, so with the length of the small tape being about 50 mm that makes the clearance 272 mm.
Of course, increasing the preload won't increase this reading if the shock is already fully extended, whereas reducing preload will drop this clearance.
Learjockey1 has a few postings on his MM on the GSpot.
Thanks for the advice!
Anyone with info about where to get this item in the US and how much?
Anyone besides pepot have this on his MM yet?
I would guess this only available straight out of Italy at the moment. I've only seen pepot and anus on the Italian forum with them. Not seen the screen on another site anywhere else, and I've had a good look
Can anyone tell me the colour of the wire and the easiest place to intercept it to put a switch in to turn the lights off without causing the failed globe warning light to trigger?
Can't see much reason to go for the whole Euro light switch as I'll almost never be riding the bike at night.
Lights on is no longer compulsory in Australia but all the bikes imported are still wired this way.
There isn't a "Euro" light switch anymore - our lights are now wired on as well :-(, so can't think there's an optional circuit available that won't trip the fault display.
The tricky computer operated lights system means that if you disconnect the tail light wire -- even running it through the plug that stops a fault showing when you remove the rear guard for racing -- the yellow warning light stays lit and the brake light comes on at lower power to simulate a tail light.
Turning the headlight off by means of the blinker cancel switch still causes the "lampf" signal to come up on the dash.
So there's no much to be lost by putting a switch in the low beam circuit and putting up with the tail light being on and the "lampf" showing -- at least there's no yellow warning triangle light staring at you.
how did you get it out? I tried removing the screw but the baffle appears to be press fit into the can. won't budge.
You were able to remove the screw, right? My screw was actually spot welded to the can but the weld breaks easy with a socket wrench. Assuming you have the screw out, sometimes it is a snug fit between the baffle and your can. Take a pair of pliers and gently grab the rim of the baffle and pull it out.
pics would come in handy too!
I didn't want to dedicate a new tread for the Isotta screen as it has been discussed already here.
My first impression after riding only a few miles - noisy but a very good protection. My head doesn't bounce all over the place anymore but the stream of air hits me right in the helmet. I am 5'11" and if I lift my head a bit it's quieter and the air goes around my neck, today was also a windy day so I will do more riding tomorrow and evaluate the screen further. The finish of the screen is superb and it looks great on the bike.