The Carpathians 2012

Discussion in 'EMEA' started by jesperd, Dec 21, 2011.

  1. jesperd

    jesperd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    Malmo, Sweden
    Hi,

    I am planning on riding along the Carpathians starting in Zakopane, Poland and a little Slovakia. Then into the Ukrainian Carpathians, the Romainan Carpathians, then returning to Sweden (south) via Serbia, Bosnia, Croatia, Slovenia, Austria, and Germany.

    Poland
    I was actually planning on rushing through Poland along major highways between Berlin and Krakow to get to Zakopane/Tatra Mountains as quickly as possible, but another thread in here got me thinking that might be foolish. Anything along that route that is worth a detour?

    Ukraine
    This is the part that I know the least about. What I did found out, is that a travelling agency (green-ukraine.com) do arrange ATV tours to the old Polish observatory on the top of Pip Ivan. I figure, if they can take unskilled tourists on ATVs there, it cannot be harcore enduro. Anyone who knows if this is doable? If so, do you know which route to take?
    Additionally, I am planning on riding along this mountain range (I don't know its name), but based on Panoramio pictures like this, it should be possible. I hope.

    Romania
    I got some good suggestions from a Romanian rider (not sure if he's an inmate, if you're Alex, from Romania and this plan sounds familiar, please let me know).
    Entering Romania at the Siret border crossing. Heading south west along route 17A and 17. Then 17B to Bicaz.
    From Bicaz to the Bicaz Canyons. From there, some small gravel roads, forrest roads, minor paved roads, in the mountains to hook up with 1A north bound to Brasov.
    Transfagarasan south (assuming it is open, if not, directly from Brasov to 67C), Transalpina (67C) and Urdele pass north.
    Then towards Petrosani, then 66A, 67D to Danube river.
    Crossing the border to Serbia at the Drobeta-Turnu Severin border crossing.

    Serbia
    Following the Danube river on the Serbia side through the Iron Gates, then smaller roads and route 200 into Belgrade. I don't know what to see, but I guess the night is young in Belgrade. :beer
    From Belgrade, smaller roads to Bosnia-Herzegovina through the border crossing at Badovinci.

    Bosnia-Herzegovina
    Tuzla to Doboj via what seems to be the only route between those cities according to Google.
    Doboj to Banja Luka via small roads, continueing to Novi Grad, Bosanska Krupa and Bihac.

    Croatia
    From Bihac across the border to Plitvicka, small roads to Senj via Dabar. Along the coast line to Rijeka. From there, highway A7 to Slovenia.

    Slovenia
    Smaller roads to Lake Bohinj and then into Austria.

    Austria
    Grossglockner.

    Germany
    Autobahns to Munich, all the way to Denmark, then Sweden. I will probably go via Harzen for the night.


    I have posted these plans (although not this detailed) in a couple Danis and Swedish motorcycle forums, but I am not getting any feedback. Maybe people think the plan is crazy. Based on the Ride Reports in here, I'm sure you guys wouldn't think that :-)

    I am not planning where to sleep, really. I will rest when I get sore, tired, find nice place sleep. I have good experience with just asking locals, if you're not more than 2 or 3. This also means that I am not sure how many days this take, but I do need to keep it on the lower side of 16 days. I am willing to postpone the Balkans if it gets too tight and just rush back on major highways to Sweden. I should be able to ride from Romania to Sweden (Malmo) in 3 days, although I prefer not to. We'll see.

    So far we will be riding two. Me on my 1200GSA and a friend on an 1100GS. Those are heavy bikes and as we do want to ride a bit off road (more than just gravel), I like knowing that help is close by if needed. I don't think the route is out of civilization, but just in case. Also, it is much more fun drinking local beer in the evenings, if you're in good company.

    Thoughts, comments, questions, suggestions, all kinds of feedback is greatly appreciated.

    Jesper
    #1
  2. V Saarela

    V Saarela Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2007
    Oddometer:
    358
    Location:
    Boden, North of Sweden and near the arctic circle
    About the Ukrain:
    Saw your other post at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748355
    I was heading Zakopane this summer(on my way home) but instead rush est of Krakow and road through the aboce linked area.
    I can´t see there are any problems to across the border at Kroscienco. I have across via Lubycza. Withe EU-member line it sorted out in half an hour. I´m sure it´s same at Kroscienco.
    It seems to take a little bit more time when leaving the country. It took about one hour at Siret. Luckely it´s easier with a motorcycle. If I had drive a car I supose I had still been there :1drink

    You can see some pics and films from the trip. Film also from the Siret border(they didn´t like my filming) http://www.saarela.se/aktuellt/aktuelltbild11/110816/110816.html

    - GPS don´t work
    - road signs etc are in "russian", so do write down signs etc before if you are heding to something
    - locals have very bad english
    - moneychange after border(you can see it in my link)
    - Cheap overnight via Booking. com or Hotels.com. Make a call or if you have a pc with you(I had)
    #2
  3. jesperd

    jesperd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    Malmo, Sweden
    Thanks a lot for the sharing the photos and videos along with description. Did you go towards Hungary before hitting the southern parts of the Carpathians? I couldn't find any images or video of the Transfagarasan nor Transalpina, so just wondering.

    Jesper
    #3
  4. V Saarela

    V Saarela Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2007
    Oddometer:
    358
    Location:
    Boden, North of Sweden and near the arctic circle
    No Transfagarasan, I´ll leave it to next time. I get in to Ukrain via Lubycsa and out via Sirat. Then followed Carpathian mountains in Romain to Hungary, where I turned north and home.

    One thing more, people tells storys(yes, it´s true storys) about polices in Ukrain stops you all the time and wants money from you. Don´t show your money, hide them and tell the polices that you are travelling widh visacard and you have no cash on you.(no, I was not stoped) Keep also widh you copys(show them to the police if he wants to see them) registrationpapers of the bike.
    #4
  5. Wildman

    Wildman In my castle

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    19,207
    Location:
    The Kingdom of Kent
    Hi Jesper

    What time of year do you plan to travel?

    Paul
    #5
  6. V-Twin-Maniac

    V-Twin-Maniac Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2009
    Oddometer:
    256
    Location:
    Germanistan
  7. jesperd

    jesperd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    Malmo, Sweden
    Hi Paul, June 2nd. I expect I'll hit Berlin at about 2-3 pm. I plan on catching the 9 am ferry from Gedser (DK) to Rostock (DE).




    ---
    I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=55.656156,8.291068
    #7
  8. jesperd

    jesperd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    Malmo, Sweden
    #8
  9. LC8rider

    LC8rider Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2006
    Oddometer:
    680
    Location:
    Preston, UK
    If you have time, why not visit the Auschwitz Birkenau site in Oswiecim? It is on your way, and I can recommend the Galicja hotel nearby with its secure garage parking. It is about 10 minutes from Auschwitz and they can supply tickets at discount prices. Also, when you enter the carpark at Auschwitz, the guard might approach you for a "tip" to watch your bike and gear. Tip the man, it's worth it!!
    Also worth a visit is Lake Bled in Slovenia. Bit touristy, but nice.
    #9
  10. jesperd

    jesperd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    Malmo, Sweden
    Yes, Auschwitz, that is a great idea.

    Actually, I tried on my last trip. I got there on my way from Krakow to Berlin and thought it would be nice with a couple of hours of cultural and historical break. Unfortunately I could only enter with a guide and as none were available, I only had the option to join the guided group tour which was scheduled to start an hour later.

    I really do not like guided group tours. I love setting my own pace, and not being rushed through the exhibit. I want to have the time to take photos, time to think. So I carried on, thinking, I will get another opportunity. Got early to Berlin, there’s a lot to see there as well.

    Your suggestion made me study the Auschwitz home page a little more, and it turns out that, as individuals you do not need guides if you’re visiting outside the peak hours. So I’ll start earlier, getting an earlier ferry, ride all the way to Oswiecim, check in to the hotel you suggest (this will be the only hotel I will pre-book as I will arrive late) to see the sites before 10am.

    Thanks!
    #10
  11. marian_golonka

    marian_golonka Motorcycle Chef

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    14
    Location:
    Poland, North Jura
    Hey, If you want to see something more than traffic jam and smell more than car pollution odour, try this route instead of shortest proposed by GPS :nod

    Krakow-Zakopane
    #11
  12. LC8rider

    LC8rider Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2006
    Oddometer:
    680
    Location:
    Preston, UK
    We were a group of 4 on 2 bikes. We didn't have to go on a tour, we just wandered around where ever we wanted. We stayed quite late into the day when it went quiet to take photos and take in the enormity of its history.
    You'll like the hotel - don't have the prawn cocktail unless you like your starter through a straw :lol3
    #12
  13. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,949
    Location:
    St.Leonards on Sea, England.
    #13
  14. jesperd

    jesperd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    Malmo, Sweden
    I am planning on going via the Tatra mountains, at least the Zakopane part of it. EU, US and Canadian citizens don't need a visa to enter, according to the Ukraine embassy in Copenhagen.

    I haven't been to Hungary myself, but your experience is much in line with what others are saying.

    Thanks for sharing your RR. Sounds like Baia Mare is worth a detour ;-)

    Jesper


    ---
    I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=55.581836,12.965523
    #14
  15. unudani

    unudani n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    Bucharest
    Hello ,

    When are planning to arrive in Romania, I am from Romania and intend to have a trip on some mountain roads in that period!
    #15
  16. Le Loup Fou

    Le Loup Fou n00b

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    8
    Location:
    Craiova, Romania

    Hi!
    After calculating your program, let me know about wich period will you arrive in Transalpina (or at least Sibiu) region. I could give you some tips about places to see, or even guide you and show you some nice mountain unpaved roads and also take you off-road from Transalpina to the Danube.
    If you arrive in Sibiu around 12 june, you will also see the prologue of the Romaniacs rally - wich is on 13.
    If it sounds good to you, let me know.


    P.S.: 1. For sure Baia Mare region (Sapinta, Certeze, Cavnic etc.) worth a detour. But also dream-like is Siret-Putna-Radauti-Suceava-Gura Humorului-Vatra Dornei region.
    2. Even if you take paved roads, try to stay on small roads - it's far more beautifull view.
    #16
  17. zakopiec

    zakopiec n00b

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4
    Location:
    Poland
    I suggest you take a nicer route along polish part of carpathians. Wisit Auschwitz and then head to Krakow. From Krakow take the rout to Zakopane that was suggest a few posts before. From Zakopane you can go along this route up to the border with Ukraine (Kroscienko border crossing). This will let you see beautiful landscapes of Beskidy Mountains. I strongly suggest you AVOID the main (national) road from Krakow to Przemysl and Ukraine. I'll see nothing but trucks and this is a very dangerous road. Instead try to use regional roads - always three digit numbers in Poland. They are of good quality and with less traffic, going thru pitoresque places.
    Probably your short of time ad dont want to mess to long in Poland but from Gdynia to Zakopane there are many nice places!

    Here is my suggested route in google maps : http://g.co/maps/37rx3 all is asphalt.
    It covers a small part of Slovakian territory but you wont even notice you crossed the border...
    #17
  18. jesperd

    jesperd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    Malmo, Sweden
    We (we'll be two riders) will most likely enter Romania at the Siret border on June 5th. It would be cool to meet you. I will PM you when we get closer to the date.
    #18
  19. jesperd

    jesperd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    Malmo, Sweden
    Thanks for the heads up on the Romaniacs event. I am not sure when we will be in the area, as I have no idea how many kilometers we can do per day. This is the planned route for Romania:
    [​IMG]

    It would be really cool to meet you somewhere. We are two riders. My best guess would be us being in the Transalpina area on about June 9th. I'll PM you when we get a little closer. Thanks for helping.
    #19
  20. jesperd

    jesperd Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2011
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    Malmo, Sweden

    Thanks a lot for your route suggestion. I did actually change the route a bit from what I originally posted. These are the changes:
    1. A friend on mine is joining me on the trip. He hasn't 100% sorted his bike out, but will most likely be riding a 1150GS of some sort. As much as I like being on my own, it is nice being able to share your adventure with someone.
    2. We're heading directly to Auschwitz on the first day (departing from Copenhagen). This is a little more than 1000 kilometers, but it should be doable. LC8Rider recommended a hotel, I have booked that for a late arrival.
    3. From Auschwitz we would be heading south east towards Zakopane, to end up at Solina and probably staying the night before entering Ukraine (see below). If your route is better, please let me know. I'll change the route accordingly. And I don't mind riding gravel. :D
    As Tatra mountains are part of the Carpaithians, arriving at Zakopane, there won't be any rushing. It's the Copenhagen-Auschwitz leg I want to get done with as quickly as possible. :D

    I went shortly to Zakopane last year, driving through CZ and PL. I really enjoy not having to bother with border crossing formalities. I guess we can thank Schengen for that.

    I found this Polish government web site that indicates the current border crossing waiting times, granica.gov.pl. Do you know how reliable that is?

    Current planned route through Tatra/Beskid? according to what I found looked best from google earth.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for helping me!

    Jesper
    #20