The chief bluesmoke travels far north..

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by arcticIndian, Jul 23, 2008.

  1. arcticIndian

    arcticIndian indian rider

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    239
    Location:
    near the arctic
    Last year we (my 1944 indian chief and myself) went to Iceland, and a ride report was posted here after the trip.

    From a bad start of the riding season, with delays and a troublesome transmission, everything got sorted in early July.
    After longing for the open road for months and months, I just loaded up the indian and headed north on tuesday july 8th.
    Actually I got the flu the night before, so I waited until 1400 to start my travel. Really I should have stayed at home, not feeling well at all.
    But sooo fed up by the small hometown....
    I've been to the north of Norway several times, and worked there as an officer for 1,5 year. I love the nature and the friendly people up there.

    Since I left late and was not feeling well, I only rode some 475 kilometers the first night. And stayed at my brother in law's grandmother's house.
    She is 90 years old, and still drives a car! She knows lot's of stories from the ww2 and earlier.


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    At the Aukrust museum in Alvdal. Abroad he's probably best known for the Pinchcliffe Grand Prix movie (http://www.caprino.no/movies/en/flaaklypa.asp)



    The next day I first had to ride back to Tynset to replace the front brake cable that broke the night before.
    After one hour of ride or so, I reached Røros. One of the Unesco World heritage towns. Røros is known for the copper production, and the buildings and remains of the copper production still stands today.
    I spent several hours in the narrow streets and the museum.

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    Big piles of remains from the copper production



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    The museum with the church behind

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    Old houses


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    The old pharmacy


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    #1
  2. ORexpat

    ORexpat Oregon Expatriate

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,094
    Location:
    West of Seattle . . .
    :lurk

    Very nice.

    I love the way the old cruisers look; not sure I've the cajones to ride a hand-shifter all over the world!
    #2
  3. Chanderjeet

    Chanderjeet IndiYeah !!

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    It doesnt get any good that this. A vintage bike ride report. Bravo.

    Keep posting more please.
    #3
  4. arcticIndian

    arcticIndian indian rider

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    239
    Location:
    near the arctic
    ..an at 15:00 o'clock I left Røros and headed north.

    On this trip I went high tech and installed a Veypor ( www.veypor.com ).
    For this trip, the Veypor's fuel gauge function and the speedometer was in frequent use.

    [​IMG]



    After passing Trondheim I noticed there was no charging.
    It took some minutes before I saw the generator pulley stop when I revved up the engine. Just before the trip I decided to replace the old pulley with a shiny new one, a custom chrome part. Actually no reason to replace the old one apart from the visual appearance.
    For some reason they had managed to machine the pulley too narrow, so the locknut bottomed out in the threads instead of keeping the pulley secured on the tapered drive axle. And the pulley was probably too soft also, so the key on the drive shaft had spun in the pulley.
    Only the weak give up by minor problems like this :) ... so I made a shim from a .006 feeler gauge I use for valve adjustment. This was enough to build up the gap between the tapered drive shaft and the pulley.
    After securing the locknut with a wide washer underneath, it was back onto the road.

    I noticed the voltage regulator had some issues regulating the charging to the almost drained battery. Had to replace the electronic regulator last year, and have been running a mechanical bosch regulator since.

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    Entering Nordnorge (northen norway ) just after midnite, the darkest time of the day

    Anyway...the bike ran good.. and with the help of the midnight sun I kept riding until 02:00 in the night. Just found a spot near the road and slept for some hours in the tent.
    Distance covered on day 2 was ~590 kilometers.
    #4
  5. groop

    groop So much to ponder

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    :thumb :lurk
    #5
  6. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Location:
    right here on my thermarest
    :lurk
    #6
  7. mrbreeze

    mrbreeze Long timer

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    You have flu and you spent the night with a 90 year old woman? You do realize that stuff is contagious, right? How is she doing now? did she get the flu?:huh
    #7
  8. arcticIndian

    arcticIndian indian rider

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    near the arctic
    Day 3:

    Well, I usually don't sleep well the first night in the tent.
    So I spent some hours in Mosjøen and had brunch and lot's of coffee before leaving at noon. Bought a package of 10 fuses for the bike, as the regulator now charged too much. After opening the sealed regulator housing I noticed that the points inside were quite worn. Probably best to look for some VW beetles or some old Opels/ Saabs along the road. It takes only a few minutes to replace the regulator if I find a better one.
    Since I'm following the E6 road, I should be ok.

    Near Mo I Rana there's a big racetrack called the arctic circle raceway.
    They say it's a very good track...but I can imagine the season is short due to the location almost at the arctic circle.

    The following weekend was a classic motorcycle race weekend, so there were some vintage race bikes already present.
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    80's vintage racebikes

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    The E6 road goes over the Saltfjellet pass, and halfway over the mountain I pass the arctic circle.
    Later on I passed this cool old gas station which had been restored.

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    After a stop for dinner i Saltdal, I decided to skip the big motorcycle meeting in Sortland. It's like every other motorcycle meet, beer and mostly modern bikes. Apart for the occasional voltage regulator "adjustments", the bike was running like a champ. So I decided to try ride all the way up to the north cape.. after first attending a vintage motorcycle meeting in Lakselv. Hey, at least I'm halfway up..

    To make the vintage motorcycle meeting in Lakselv, I had to speed up.
    Off course I missed the ferry from Bognes to Skarberget by a few minutes.
    Saw a big moose eating from the trees just 25 meters away from the parkinglot where I was waiting for the ferry. Entering wilderness...
    So I passed the town of Narvik near midnight.
    From Narvik I rode to Bjerkvik and then over the mountains to Bardu.
    I planned to stay at a 24hour motel (Øse) on the Gratangsfjellet mountain, but managed to ride past it since there were lots of new cabins around.
    I've been a lot around in this area, since I spent 1,5 years working in the army up there.
    Instead of turning back I just continued over the mountain towards Setermoen.

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    It doesn't get much darker than this in the summertime, due to the midnight sun.


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    At 0200 in the morning it's almost daylight



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    Pitstop at Setermoen...everyone else is asleep.

    After passing the camp where I worked as an army officer...I saw no reason to stop yet. So I kept riding through Andselv and had pretty much the road to myself.. and a few foxes and birds... luckily no mooses or raindears.

    At almost 0400 I found a nice spot near the fjords just a bit north of nordkjosbotn.

    Distance traveled on day 3, approx 740 kilometers.
    Average speed around 70km/h .
    The roads are not highways, just narrow roads with endless number of curves... following the fjords and harsh mountains.
    #8
  9. arcticIndian

    arcticIndian indian rider

    Joined:
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    She never get's sick...that's maybe why she is still doing good at 90
    And it wasn't the really contagious type of flu..
    #9
  10. bobw

    bobw Harden the phuck up

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    God's country, Western North Carolina
    Love the trip, it is so cool to see the Ol Chief out and about. We seem to get so hung up on the GSA VS KTM VS ??? with all their modern tech additions. It takes a post like yours to remind us of the riders and their equipment from that era that had ALL Adventure riding ALL the time. Sweet. Best of luck and safe travels.

    Bob
    #10
  11. NomadRip

    NomadRip Always a n00b

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    Location:
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    I love your reports :clap
    #11
  12. GB

    GB . Administrator

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    61,694
    Great ride, report and pics :thumb
    #12
  13. Regbafazool

    Regbafazool Gregarious Pariah

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    relatively close to an exit ramp
    Hello arcticIndian!

    Another inspirational ride report! :clap :clap

    Please keep documenting your journey for us. :thumb
    #13
  14. indianscout

    indianscout A road to nowhere isn't a bad thing.

    Joined:
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    Gott'a love them ol' chiefs, they just keep on ticken!! Cool report, keep up the good work!


    .
    #14
  15. arcticIndian

    arcticIndian indian rider

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    239
    Location:
    near the arctic
    been busy the last week.. but now I have time to continue writing the trip report:)


    Day 4:

    It was hard to get up in the morning after riding until 4 in the morning.
    But after breakfast (outside the gas station) and a coffe, I was ready to ride to the vintage motorcycle meet in Lakselv.
    The "Lyngen" alps and Kvanangen area are among my absolute favourite places. It's so beautiful that pictures really can't capture the beauty.
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    Somewhere along the E6 road ..

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    Kvanangen


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    Lyngen

    In Alta I phoned the guys from the vintage motorcycle club, and told them I was heading their way.
    Also this is raindear country, so one have to be careful not to hit rudolph...
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    The raindears are mostly property of the native "sami" people, they have rights to use the icecold finnmarksvidda desert for their raindears. Still lot's of the sami people live in tents parts of the year. With their snowmobiles parked outside:)

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    Riding over Sennalandet, a part of the Finnmarksvidda

    After some hours of riding I finally made it to Lakselv and the campsite in the beautiful Stabbursdalen valley. The Stabburselv river is next to the campsite, and several of the tourists caught some big salmons while I was there.
    The rest of the night was spent at the campsite checking out the other vintage bikes and drinking beer :)

    Total on day 4: ~440 kilometers
    The voltage regulator was troubling several times during the day...
    #15
  16. King Frolic

    King Frolic Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2006
    Oddometer:
    470
    Location:
    Bagarmossen, Sweden
    Fantastic landscape and a beutifull bike.

    Flåklypa Grand Prix (Pinchcliffe Grand Prix) are probably the best race movie ever made. :D

    Hmm, I should ride to Norway some day, it is not that far.
    #16
  17. arcticIndian

    arcticIndian indian rider

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    near the arctic
    Day 5:

    The day started early with a ride out to the institute for research of the Kven people and the Kven-land.
    The Kven people are considered a minority with their own language, descendents of immigrants from what is now Finland (and Sweden). The actual location of Kvenland is unclear, Kvenland is mentioned in 9th century writings. More info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kven_people

    In the end of the second world war, most of the houses in the northern part of Norway (named Finnmark) was burned down by the nazis to halt the russians from liberating (or invading?) Norway.
    So, the old style houses are gone. But the Kven institute have disassembled and moved a similar type of house from Sweden for displaying it for the future.
    Lots of ww2 history in Northern Norway...

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    Vintage motorcycles outside the old style house

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    Later we teamed up with the local motorcycle club and did a couple of laps through the town to show the bikes to the public.

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    on display in Lakselv

    Since there was a gas station nearby, I borrowed an electric oil pump and changed the oil while I was there. The bike had only consumed 1 litre of oil over some 2400 kilometers, which is quite unusual..:)
    But thanks to totalseal pistonrings and teflon valvestem seals it's possible. However I do expect the oil consumption to increase when the rings get worn, however not as rapidly increase as with standard type rings.
    Back at the campsite it was time for a cold beer and a quite delicious grilled (marinated in white wine etc..) whale beef.

    oh yes.. I forgot to tell you about the mosquitos....they are everywhere and they love me..

    just some 110 kilometers covered on day 5 of the trip
    #17
  18. arcticIndian

    arcticIndian indian rider

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Day6:

    Most of the guys left at lunchtime this sunday.
    Including a 80 year old rider who was going to ride the 2000 something kilometers back home in 3,5 days on his 1970's bike. Quite impressive!

    I loaded all the stuff back onto the bike, and headed further north towards the North Cape.

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    Nice weather at the Porsanger fjord

    Before heading up to the North cape I stopped in Honnigsvåg, a small town not far from the cape.

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    Cruiseboat leaving Honningsvåg, in extraordinary nice weather.


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    The Honnigsvåg church


    And then, after some 2400 kilometer of riding I finally got to the turning point at the North Cape. 71° 10' 21" ...pretty far north! The road and mainland ends at the North cape. The only way to get to the northpole is by air or boat.

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    The "chief bluesmoke" made it all the way...!


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    been there, done that... 71° 10' 21"


    I figured that a fish soup was the proper lunch at the north cape, and the tourist center have misc historic information and a cinema.

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    The weather on the north cape is not always as nice, I was very lucky to be there on this day. The sea was covered in mist..but we could see for miles.

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    #18
  19. arcticIndian

    arcticIndian indian rider

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    near the arctic
    After some hours on the North cape it was time to get back onto the road, and start riding south again. Especially since the weather forecast said bad weather was coming within the next two days.

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    The fog coming in from the west..



    Along the fjords there are small fishing villages and occasionally some raindeers.

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    #19
  20. arcticIndian

    arcticIndian indian rider

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    239
    Location:
    near the arctic
    Before leaving Lakselv I had talked to a guy who knew someone that perhaps could help me with a new voltage regulator.
    But since I had to wait until the next day, I skipped it and kept on riding in the still good weather.

    Along the fjords there were cold fog, and slight rain...
    Had to put on some warmer clothes before going over the mountains.

    [​IMG]
    Still snow in the mountains in July


    As I said before, I find Kvanangen to be one of the most beautiful places I have seen... and it didn't disappoint me this time. Even with fog and mist covering the sea.
    I wish I brought along a better camera... or even better to be there yourself. It's hard to capture the tone of the northern light and the view over the fjord

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    From there it was full speed ahead along the fjords to Skibotn, where I arrived at 01:30 (AM).

    Distance traveled on day 6: ~700 kilometers
    #20