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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.
OK, well, I am old and feeble-minded, so I probably got it wrong.
We are right there with you
If your ABS sensor was installed wrong, the ABS light would stay on.
So it's your tires. The compound must be harder so they set off Honda's crap TC setting, which I've complained about many times myself. I can make mine go off even with my excellent Conti Trail Attack IIs. I suggest you ride with TC on either 1 or off if you plan to give it the beans.
Isn't this partly to be expected with new tires anyway? The Conti Trail Attack II - which by the way is said to need no run in period - triggers the traction control far less than the stock tyres.
First ride after fork seals replaced and heavier springs installed, the bottom of left side fork starts just barely leaking between bottom of chrome inner tube and axle casting/holder...barely half a spit's worth after 100 miles but after being cleaned away it is re-appearing like clockwork after a few miles of riding. Entire rest of forks dry as a bone. I can see the smallest gap there between chrome and axle casting that fork oil is wicking up out of. When I push on axle casting I can see I'm moving the gap and the fluid in that space.
My initial research indicates this is highly unusual/uncommon on any motorcycle...chrome inner tube is threaded into axle casting and loctite'd in place. Taking to dealership which will keep me up every night until I ride the bike once fixed and give it the A-OK since I just had local suspension guru work the forks but NOW will have some kid @ dealership looking at it
I am confident they will replace inner tube-axle casting as a unit, rather than repair anything.
My bike (manual) has not exhibited this behavior from the traction control.
Try to go to full throttle all at once in level 3 (first gear)
once the front comes up it begins spinning at a different rate than the rear, the TC kicks in.
that's what it's suppose to do, is it not?
In level 3 the front will not have a chance to come up, the engine will start cutting out as soon as you pin the throttle. Also, the front wheel has inertia, I don't think that the speed difference will be so immediate. I think (but may be wrong) that other sensors prevent a wheelie.
Once the front breaks even the tinniest bit the rear is still getting faster.
the sensors probably monitor the wheel rotation rates between
30 and 60 times per second which is plenty of time for the ECU to
decide retard the engine if the rates are not identical.
There may be a sensor in the forks but those catching air would engage it and as far as
I know there have not been reports of that characteristic.
There is not.
I've never tried to wheelie but I do disable TC every time I fire up the bike now, it's second nature...
Didn't find this reported in this thread, so I'm embarrassing myself to help others.
I changed my rear tire yesterday, and got a bit stumped putting it back on. I used a 5-gallon Home Depot bucket to hold the tire during service and the entire sprocket fell out. Now I was left with a pile of parts I didn't know went where.
When I went to put it on, I found I had two axle spacers: one with a flange and one without. What side to put them on?
I pulled out the service manual, and neither of the spacers showed a flange. Flipping a coin, I put the one with the flange on the brake (right) side and the other on the sprocket (left) side. I loaded my tools into my bags because last time I had a pinch flat, so I wanted to be prepared. Because it was 100F when I was done putting the tire on, I didn't even start the bike before going in for iced tea and a shower, Besides, it was Father's Day and I had hidden from my kids long enough.
Here's the problem that I hope others can search and find: when I started the bike this morning, both the Traction Control and ABS yellow indicators stayed on. A minute down the road, the check engine light came on. I turned the bike off, then on. The TC and ABS lights stayed on, and a bit later the check engine light reappeared.
I work 5 minutes from home, so I carried on and checked YouTube for help. I found a guy (Leo Steiner) who was puzzled when he changed his tire, but eventually sorted it and pointed out that the flanged one goes on the left side.
Since I had my tools with me, I changed the spacers in our parking garage and headed home. Problem is solved.
So, the flanged one that looks like a fat T in profile goes on the left side. I hope this helps others!
Keywords for search: rear tire, check engine light, TC light, Traction Control light, ABS light
I remove the axle with the adjuster on it and put the spacers and the other adjuster, washer and nut on the axle in the order they came off. Hard to screw it up that way.
Been there, man. First time I took the rear tire off my sportbike, everything fell out. No idea what all the parts were. Had never seen them before. I died. Don't beat yourself up -- helping others is what it's all about. I wouldn't have known. Now I do. Thanks!
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Hi. Does anybody have the torque settings for the axle nut and pinch bolts on the front wheel? Thanks
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The axle nut is 44 ft lb and the pinch bolts are 16 ft lb push the axle through torque the right pinch bolts torque the axle nut loosen the right pinch bolt torque the left pinch bolts pump the forks with the front brake on then retorque the right pinch bolts
It seems that it will. Disc brakes, Hydraulic brake lines, ABS, Traction Control, Electric suspension adjustments (on some bikes), DCT and other tech stuff is all technology from four wheeled vehicles that is gradually making its way onto bikes.
Thankfully though one thing we are a long way from is computer driven riderless control! :)
Maybe ask around. One or two people have DCT and would prefer to go back to Manual, some have manual and would prefer DCT. Might be an opportunity for two people to swap bikes with little, to no, pain to the wallet :)