Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by joec63, Sep 4, 2012.
Because it's not all about power.
Crazy how bent that is! It didn't think it looked that bad when you showed the photos after the spill. At least it can take a bit without being compromised.
It is a hobby, modifying that is, tinkering. I don't own anything stock that is just the way I like it.. Stock it boring to me, maybe not to other folks out there, but there is just something about slapping on some parts and feeling the difference in performance, handling, looks, function, feel... Basically like LEGOS for grownups. If I bought a WR or a used DRZ I would then put money into modifying them as well. For me the Hondas price point was spot on, cheap and left some money in the pocket for me to play around with. my 2¢
For anyone using the Symtec heated grips and Highway Dirybikes topclamps and want a water proof rocker switch cover i found a uk ebay seller selling the same switch with a waterproof cover. I have ordered one and swapped the cover on to my Symtec switch and it works great.
I will post some photos soon of the CRFL when the sun comes out.
What bikes like the CRF250L, WR250R, and KLX250S bring to the table over a KTM and similar bikes is anvil-like reliability and long term durability. KTM's are damn fine bikes, and in the vein of other competition bikes that can be street legal, they rank among the best. But, the bikes I mention here are more overbuilt...yes, slightly heavier as a result...and not as stressed as racing-platform bikes you might compare them too. Lower starting price, both new and used, is also a factor for many riders. I bought a used '06 KLX250S in '09 and incrementally modded the suspension with a revalve...something guys even do with 10K priced bikes. I've also added a 300cc kit and a pumper carb...yes, even some brand new race bike owners add displacement and FI programmers and pipes to the latest high end bikes. I haven't even scratched the surface of the entry price of a basic competition KTM that could be street legal...and still have a very competent bike that is superior on the pavement to most all of those competition level bikes...and is able to cover the same ground and rough, off road conditions with more than adequate competency, albeit not as fast or quite as easily.
I'm not looking at things through rose colored glasses. I raced enduros for decades and know the edge you get with a real competition bike in rough off road conditions. If you're racing, you need a race level bike. Otherwise, riding a decently modded, more modern DS bike of certain models allow great trips out west in the mountains and deserts with almost guaranteed reliability and durability over many years with most service concerns involving oil changes, the occasional valve clearance check, and replacing worn tires.
EEKAMOUSE was looking for torques for the triple clamp pinch bolts. I loosened up mine in the process of taking dimensions for some tie down tabs to the forks. HOLY CRAP....one was massively tight...WAAAAY over 24 lb-ft, the other was barely snug...same for all the other pinch bolts. Combine that with the massively tight rear sprocket bolt nuts tells me our Thai friends on the Honda assembly line don't do much torque wrench calibrating. Also makes me think of the CRF owner who felt that the front end was real squirrelly at 70 mph. I can say from experience on my XR400R loose triple clamps bolts will do this. SOOOO, my message is, check bolt torques, add lock-tite if appropriate on every important bolt (or fasteners on stuff you don't want falling off) on the bike.
Just a bit off topic, the AFX-39 DS helmet (Fly makes the same but with D-rings) has a unique latching system that you can even latch/unlatch with gloves on, but no way to use the helmet lock with it. I'm just going to go to the hardware store and get one of those cables, with loops at either end, then leave it either in the lock, or tank bag when not in use. Yeah, in the middle of nowhere, just put it over a mirror, or just leave it on the ground/seat, but in town, at the market I usually take my favorite ride, LRP. On sale on MC superstore, now my Christmas gift card is toast.
Reason why I sold my DRZ400S was the crap gear ratio selection of the transmission. Stock it was a great streetbike, but 1st gear was WAAAAY to high for anything off road. Put on the offroad gearing...1 less tooth on the c/s spkt, about 5 more on the rear sprocket, it would climb anything...but SCREAMED on the road at 55 mph. Powerwise, the DR was very decent though...but not as torquey as my XR400R, was a WIMP compared to my XR bored to 440! (And no frikkin radiator to bend like Linda's). BUT, I don't ride like that anymore...and have just taken delivery of a CRF....as it fit me better and is $$$$$$ cheaper than my riding buddie's WR250R.
That Radiator is 100% repairable..my $350 DRZ radiator looked worse than that...go to Myler's, www dot motorcycleradiators dot com or he can make a REAL stout one for reasonable price
So guys, what is it about the LRP that makes you do what you do?
Had a lot of Honda product over the years, had bikes before I had a car. Used ones mostly, and beat the snot out of em, with nary a problem. Then at some point, I just went more, and more cc, then back to reality with the LRP. Also, worked on, and ridden lots of bike over the years, as many have said, you notice yourself smiling a lot, knowing only you know, because nobody can see behind the helmet.
Yes Goondock...the tinkering is great fun, but the real PITA is when the UPS truck comes with goodies for the bike....and the wife asks "what did you buy now?" BUT, she at least knows that if I'm in the garage with the bike, I'm not in the bar with a floozie!
I just think that is awesome how it can bend that much. The one thing I noticed right off the get go was the lack of protection on the radiator. I'm new to motorcycling in general and was kinda surprised it didn't have protection. Then I looked at other bikes and they were much the same. It certainly gives me more confidence in that area. I am gonna wait until some more info comes out on which radiator protection has been tested best and go that route I think.
Do you think those ones @ motorcycle radiators will do without protection? I am certainly not an aggressive rider anyway. But i do want to "harden" any soft spots just for insurances. I already ripped off one rear turn signal on a tree going through some tighter single track in the mud. So I ordered something to remove the long turn signals and bring them into the taillight. We'll see how that works.
Yes, I saw that throttle stop screw when I was fiddling with the air cleaner on my new CRF. Has anyone fiddled with it to eliminate stalling? Reason why I thought of this is my son's mazda 3 at 40,000 miles has developed an unstable in-gear idle...and the recognized fix for it is to clean oil and dirt from the throttle body (introduced by the PCV), then make the computer "re-learn" the closed throttle position, by disconnecting the negative post of the battery for 10 minutes, then reconnect it. Would seem the CRF's ECU probably has some "learning" capabilities.
Nope, the stout radiators will still crush. I had a radiator protector that had 6 aluminum rods that went crosswise of the radiator that transferred the "crush" to the frame of the bike. VERY stout....very heavy...but, it never crashed as i sold it, and the guy who made them went out of business. The nicest radiator protectors I've seen so far are the flatland racing ones
Hmmmmm, bike or wife, seems like you can have both, and both are keepers. Watch out, the LRP may become "her bike".
She has the CRF's grandfather...a 1979 XR185.....and it's shorter and lighter...but...alas...no e-start
Yeah I saw the flatlands racing one and like the pictures anyway. But since I don't have any real experience with these, I'm gonna wait for a post crash review. Hahahaha
Had a SL125 (a used 71), could go through tight stuff faster than with a 250 SDR I moved up to. I think I sold it for the same price I paid for it, as was done with many bikes back then. Yes, kicking isn't fun, but if it's a Honda, I'll bet it doesn't take too many to get it running. Too bad it isn't "primary", you have to find neutral before kicking, never a problem back then, because it wasn't available.
If you let her ride the LRP, you'll never get it back. Now that you are "back down" to a 250, you can check out the minimalist thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201349&page=394
Ed@Ford, I guess we just have hit that ripe old age and it's just fun to easy back and enjoy life. I too looked at the WR, but decided I would never ride it to its potential.