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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by joec63, Sep 4, 2012.
I found the exact handguards on ebay in a "nearly new" condition for $30. I 'm curious how you handled the throttle tube. Did you cut the end off or drill it out?
Shinko SR241 in 3.0x21 and 4.0x18. I had Shinko's on my last CRF and they are very sticky on the street and excellent offroad. So far so good with these too. Worked great today on all the dirt/clay/sand I came across.
Irish769, as far as I know and from probably installing some 20 sets of handguards on probably 20 motorcycles they are all pretty much the same. Since the throttle handle extends beyond the end of the bar you will have to cut the end off so you can get the handguard end clamps into the end of the bar, this can be done 2 or 3 ways, I used my Dremel to cut my end off, you could also use a hacksaw, the third way would be some sort of knife, but since the plastic on the throttle handle is tuff stuff, I'd pass on the knife. You asked about a drill, I guess you could drill out the end, but you are still going to need a way to shorten the plastic throttle assembly and a drill won't do that. You need the end off first so you can see how much extra needs to be cut off so the throttle handle will clear the handlegards you will be installing. You are going to cut the plastic throttle handle back about 3/16" from the end of the bar, this is so the bar end clamp will not interfere with the operation of the throttle when you install the handguards. One note here, since I was installing new grips I took the old grips off first which can make things a little clearer to what you are doing. One thing about using a Dremel is it will cut the grip and the plastic very smooth and you can take off a little at a time and cut as needed for a nice look and fit. Due note that you are going to have to cutoff both handle grips for the handguard to fit into the bars, but only the throttle side will require the extra trimming because of the truing of the throttle. This is like any other job, with the right tools it's easy to do the correct way.
hi guys :)
Does anyone know how much fork oil (how far from the top), and what viscosity?
I wonder if they have different amounts, right and left, because the one doesn't have a spring. Even the same amount would come to a different height, with spring and no spring.
The service manual, from Helimos or whatever it is, is it the genuine Honda part or is it a scanned copy?
good job with the headlight mask. i wish i could do that with the standard mask, get rid of the heavy brackets.
Not only the bracket, but the whole assembly is heavy (1.47kg).
The UFO stealth w/ homemade speedo alu plate is only 0.57kg
... and as the new headlight mask includes led blinkers, thats get rid of 0.33kg more
--> All in one, that's a 2.7 lbs gain. Most important is thats high placed weight.
Downside is 35W only H4 bulb now, but usually i dont ride at night
Since there's lot of ice & snow here, i couldn't even give a try. Cant wait ..
I should find another mod to keep me busy
Service Manual (Helms) :
Recommended Fork Oil: Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8 (10W) or equivalent
Right-122mm (4.8 in)
Left- 38mm (1.5in)
Right- 658 +/- 2.5cm3
(22.3 +/-0.08 US oz,23.2 +/-0.09 Imp oz)
Left- 683 +/-2.5cm3
(23.1 +/-0.08 US oz,24.0 +/-0.09 Imp oz)
If this is any help to ya, I believe that Helms is the publisher for the Honda manuals...same thing, so I've read
I've found that it's more accurate to measure what drains out of the fork and replace the same amount.
I believe 35/35 W H4 and normal 55/65W H4 are identical and interchangeable....BUT if the lens and reflector is plastic, the bigger wattage bulb might melt it
Thanks for the fork info. I wonder how many folks have spent $$ adding gold valve...singular...and it's HELM...no S...when I called them last week I asked if they planned to provide it on CD....they said no....and they were out of stock on printed copies
Problem with that is solid crap gets to hide here and there in the mechanism....so drain, add solvent, drain, add cheap oil...like trans fluid, pump it around, drain, then add the appropriate quantity of the good honda or bel ray fork oil....this washes the crap out a little better
Sorry on the "S"...please forgive me...Did you try CRF's Only? Its a bit of a maze to find it in the site, but that's where I got mine a couple weeks ago.
They must be out of stock also...just tried to find it, and it's not even listed anymore...
Last week CRF's was sold out, expecting more late this month...and I'm on the wait list at Helm....their shop...or at least one of them, is 20 miles away...so, I'm good with one or the other
Maybe if the right amount is in there to start with.
I changed the oil in my TU250 forks, I drained about 365cc's out of each and refilled with thicker oil.
When I went back to thinner oil, I read the shop manual, 2.8 inches from the top, over 500cc's of oil!!!!
Funny, the forks seem to work better with the right amount of oil in them.
Does anyone know if the shifter shaft diameter and spline spacing is common on Honda dirt bikes? If it is, then we would have a large selection of replacements for the LRP. I have no other Hondas in my garage to be able to compare.
Does anyone know of someone producing one of these for the CRF yet? Just poking around on the minimalist threat, and a guy doing prep for a major upcoming trip on a "Brand Y" bike has one of these on his. I sorta told myself I wouldn't be spending major amounts of $ on this bike, but so far that plan hasn't panned out so well.
I found another tutorial for servicing the KYB cartridge forks.
The instructions in this tutorial are very good, and the information is supplemented with photographs.
Thanks John.....That sums it all up nicely!