The CRF250L Owners thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by joec63, Sep 4, 2012.

  1. Harcomo

    Harcomo Been here awhile

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    First of all, Krono, you're the man! The block of wood tip was the finishing touch! And thanks to everyone else on here for their tips on sprocket removal also. I just took some of the things I've picked up on here and put them to work and the rear sprocket removal was a piece of cake.

    Tools needed were a 17mm offset box end wrench, the 6mm allen wrench that came with the 250L, some blocks of wood or cement blocks, etc. and a good leather glove to save the skin on your knuckles.

    I had the bike up on the Craftsman motorcycle jack (the bike on the sidestand would work just the same) and after stacking the appropriate amount of concrete and wood blocks up to the correct height, I inserted the allen wrench in the sprocket bolt and slowly lowered the bike back down just until the tire was in contact with the floor. I also put a block of wood behind the rear tire to keep it from turning. Here's the setup.......

    [​IMG]

    Then, it took a little tinkering to get things lined up with both wrenches and the allen wrench at the right angle on the wood blocks......with just my left hand holding the allen wrench square in the bolt, I turned down on the sprocket nut on the back side with the 17mm wrench and in turn, it pressed the allen down into the wood block preventing it from turning and stripping the bolt head out. And low and behold, with just a reasonable amount of force, the nut popped loose and it was easy turning from then on. For the other 5 bolts/nuts, just rotate the rear tire until it's in the right position as the first one and proceed to take them all out. No torn up bolt heads and no trips to the parts store looking for the right tools. Simple as that! A closeup of the process........notice I had the end of the allen wrench sitting on a handy knot in the pine block to keep it from pressing into the wood......

    [​IMG]

    I hope this helps someone else out along the way that is looking to replace a rear sprocket.
  2. Krono

    Krono Speed Junkie

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    Congrats ! :clap

    Spot on my motto : all means are good :D

    L
  3. Spud Rider

    Spud Rider Long timer

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    I've been very interested in this motorcycle since it was announced. How strong is the subframe? My XR650L has a weak subframe. :rolleyes

    Spud :beer
  4. SAPB

    SAPB Long timer

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    Also, I think someone on another thread, I think TNC, said that they use loctite on those nuts, and a little heat from a torch can make the loctite toast. You can also toast other stuff close by if not careful.
  5. SAPB

    SAPB Long timer

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    Someone posted on the minimalist about the frames being weak on the XR650L, thinking the complained about weight on the CRF address this. Not riding mine to extremes here just yet.
  6. Spud Rider

    Spud Rider Long timer

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    Instead of a 13T/42T sprocket combination, you might consider the 14T/45T sprocket combination. :deal The 45T sprocket is stock for the Honda XR650L, therefore, many choices are available. I employ the Primary Drive sprockets available from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC on my XR650L. I like these sprockets very much, and they only cost $19.99. :deal

    http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/48/77/226/957/10189/2192/Primary-Drive-Rear-Steel-Sprocket

    [​IMG]

    Spud :beer
  7. Krono

    Krono Speed Junkie

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    ... what would gives almost the same gearing reduction but at the added cost of a new chain, as 13/42 allows you to keep the stock chain.

    L
  8. Spud Rider

    Spud Rider Long timer

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    The XR650L rear sprocket is also commonly available with 48 teeth. :deal

    In addition, the PBI C/S sprocket for the CBR250R/XR250R is available in sizes from 12T-15T. :D

    http://shop.pbisprockets.com/product.sc?productId=69&categoryId=20

    Therefore, one could also employ a 48T/15T sprocket combination instead of a 13T/42T sprocket combination.

    However, I think a 45T rear sprocket is a good choice. For technical off road riding one could employ the stock, 14T front sprocket with the 45T rear sprocket. Then, one could easily swap a 15T, PBI C/S sprocket for lower rpms during extended street riding. :deal The larger sprockets reduce wear on both sprockets as well as the drive chain, thereby extending the service life of all three components. :wink:

    Spud :beer
  9. Spud Rider

    Spud Rider Long timer

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    Yes, that's true. Therefore, it would be best to switch to a 45T rear sprocket after one needs a new drive chain. :nod

    Spud :beer
  10. Krono

    Krono Speed Junkie

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    Yup ... but let's wear the stock chain with a 13/42, then use the stock 14t contersprocket w/ a new rear sprocket and a longer chain

    Thats economy :D

    L
  11. Spud Rider

    Spud Rider Long timer

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    Another factor to consider is possible interference with the chain guide and/or chain guard when using 45T, or larger sprockets. Also, the larger sprockets might cause accelerated wear of the chain guide slipper, part #9 in the following diagram. :deal

    [​IMG]

    Spud :beer
  12. Spud Rider

    Spud Rider Long timer

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  13. Krono

    Krono Speed Junkie

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    This chain guide slipper have to be reversed when using a 42t.
    I guess i would simply remove it with a lager sprocket, unless i can find a suitable aftermarket part.

    L
  14. Larry Ferguson

    Larry Ferguson Adventurer

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    You wouldn't really need a whole new chain. You could get another master link and add enough links to make it work. I have run chains with 2 master links many miles with no trouble. Plus, it makes it easy to switch back if needed.
  15. Krono

    Krono Speed Junkie

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    True :D

    I didnt even consider this, because were I live, chains have to be riveted (by law).

    Not that can't be done, but put aside, the 13/42 w/ stock chain is a "no brainer"

    L
  16. Spud Rider

    Spud Rider Long timer

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    I completely removed the chain guide slipper on my XR650L. The chain guide slipper is installed to prevent the drive chain from leaving the rear sprocket. My XR650L has greater suspension travel than the CRF250L; however, I have been riding the last 16,000 miles without any drive chain problems. Nevertheless, a more "spirited" rider might derail the drive chain if he removed the chain guide slipper.

    I also removed the chain guard, since I don't carry passengers on my bike. Drive chain maintenance and rear wheel maintenance are much easier after the chain guard and the chain guide slipper have been removed. :wink:

    Spud :beer
  17. Harcomo

    Harcomo Been here awhile

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    I guess I didn't realize this......if I ever read about it, I had forgotten!

    So you just unbolt the slipper and flip it over with the beveled end now on top and facing the rear?
  18. Krono

    Krono Speed Junkie

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    I dont remember ... but just unbolt it and you'll figure out :huh

    L
  19. Spud Rider

    Spud Rider Long timer

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    No, if you turn the chain guide slipper upside down, it will wear very quickly. I think Krono rotated the chain guide slipper 180 degrees, so it did not extend so far from the rear of the chain guide. I imagine a larger rear sprocket will rub the extended rear of the chain guide slipper, unless you rotate it. :deal

    Given the way I ride, I would just remove the chain guide slipper entirely. However, I don't jump my bikes, et cetera. :deal A very aggressive rider should keep the chain guide slipper; otherwise, he risks derailing the drive chain.

    Spud :beer
  20. roundtripping

    roundtripping Adventourist

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