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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by joec63, Sep 4, 2012.
Spot on my motto : all means are good
I've been very interested in this motorcycle since it was announced. How strong is the subframe? My XR650L has a weak subframe.
Also, I think someone on another thread, I think TNC, said that they use loctite on those nuts, and a little heat from a torch can make the loctite toast. You can also toast other stuff close by if not careful.
Someone posted on the minimalist about the frames being weak on the XR650L, thinking the complained about weight on the CRF address this. Not riding mine to extremes here just yet.
Instead of a 13T/42T sprocket combination, you might consider the 14T/45T sprocket combination. The 45T sprocket is stock for the Honda XR650L, therefore, many choices are available. I employ the Primary Drive sprockets available from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC on my XR650L. I like these sprockets very much, and they only cost $19.99.
... what would gives almost the same gearing reduction but at the added cost of a new chain, as 13/42 allows you to keep the stock chain.
The XR650L rear sprocket is also commonly available with 48 teeth.
In addition, the PBI C/S sprocket for the CBR250R/XR250R is available in sizes from 12T-15T.
Therefore, one could also employ a 48T/15T sprocket combination instead of a 13T/42T sprocket combination.
However, I think a 45T rear sprocket is a good choice. For technical off road riding one could employ the stock, 14T front sprocket with the 45T rear sprocket. Then, one could easily swap a 15T, PBI C/S sprocket for lower rpms during extended street riding. The larger sprockets reduce wear on both sprockets as well as the drive chain, thereby extending the service life of all three components.
Yes, that's true. Therefore, it would be best to switch to a 45T rear sprocket after one needs a new drive chain.
Yup ... but let's wear the stock chain with a 13/42, then use the stock 14t contersprocket w/ a new rear sprocket and a longer chain
Another factor to consider is possible interference with the chain guide and/or chain guard when using 45T, or larger sprockets. Also, the larger sprockets might cause accelerated wear of the chain guide slipper, part #9 in the following diagram.
If one wants a 13T C/S sprocket, I can also recommend the Primary Drive C/S sprocket for the XR250R. These excellent C/S sprockets only cost $8.99.
This chain guide slipper have to be reversed when using a 42t.
I guess i would simply remove it with a lager sprocket, unless i can find a suitable aftermarket part.
You wouldn't really need a whole new chain. You could get another master link and add enough links to make it work. I have run chains with 2 master links many miles with no trouble. Plus, it makes it easy to switch back if needed.
I didnt even consider this, because were I live, chains have to be riveted (by law).
Not that can't be done, but put aside, the 13/42 w/ stock chain is a "no brainer"
I completely removed the chain guide slipper on my XR650L. The chain guide slipper is installed to prevent the drive chain from leaving the rear sprocket. My XR650L has greater suspension travel than the CRF250L; however, I have been riding the last 16,000 miles without any drive chain problems. Nevertheless, a more "spirited" rider might derail the drive chain if he removed the chain guide slipper.
I also removed the chain guard, since I don't carry passengers on my bike. Drive chain maintenance and rear wheel maintenance are much easier after the chain guard and the chain guide slipper have been removed.
I guess I didn't realize this......if I ever read about it, I had forgotten!
So you just unbolt the slipper and flip it over with the beveled end now on top and facing the rear?
I dont remember ... but just unbolt it and you'll figure out :huh
No, if you turn the chain guide slipper upside down, it will wear very quickly. I think Krono rotated the chain guide slipper 180 degrees, so it did not extend so far from the rear of the chain guide. I imagine a larger rear sprocket will rub the extended rear of the chain guide slipper, unless you rotate it.
Given the way I ride, I would just remove the chain guide slipper entirely. However, I don't jump my bikes, et cetera. A very aggressive rider should keep the chain guide slipper; otherwise, he risks derailing the drive chain.
Looks like things are moving along over at Scott's...
I didn't see any grease zerks on the parts diagrams for the CRF250L. Did I miss them?