The CRF250L Owners thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by joec63, Sep 4, 2012.

  1. Charleston

    Charleston Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2012
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    [ Hi I noticed my CRF was doing the same this after I had done all my mods to the bike. It`s only just noticable at this stage. I did check the clutch cable adjustment and it did seem as if there was a very small amount of tension on the clutch cable with the clutch engaged (level out). I`ve adjusted the cable, and there does seem to be a difference. I will keep an eye on this. There is always the option of using the CBR clutch interals in the CRF clutch body.
    Steve][/QUOTE]

    I have found that adjusting the freeplay did help some, but not completely. I’m wondering if changing the clutch from the half sized plate/Judder spring to the standard plate like the CBR would put too much stress on the transmission guts when ridden hard like we ride them. Maybe the clutch is designed to slip at high loads to protect the tranny from loads that it is not designed to take?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
  2. Lost Roadie

    Lost Roadie Rider

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    3,594
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    On The Road


    I'll let you know, we have no judder spring in ours. Methinks no clutch is designed to slip when adjusted correctly and the lever is out, especially when going down the highway as you described.

    There's a little talk about the judder spring a few pages back, and lots more if you do a google search. Granted, most of the thumper talk posts are racers or wannabe racers looking for something not all CRF250L owner would want in the feel of it.

    I see the judder spring mod as being a tuning tool to have the clutch engage more abruptly, not something to overcome slipping that shouldn't be happening to begin with on a bike without a bunch of engine power mods.


    More talk and info in this thread:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=21008278#post21008278
  3. mcrosser

    mcrosser Only the truth

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2013
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    Bangkok,
    I have found that adjusting the freeplay did help some, but not completely. I’m wondering if changing the clutch from the half sized plate/Judder spring to the standard plate like the CBR would put too much stress on the transmission guts when ridden hard like we ride them. Maybe the clutch is designed to slip at high loads to protect the tranny from loads that it is not designed to take?

    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>[ I know honda beefed up the gearbox on the CRF due to the nature of off road riding compared to the CBR. They made the gears wider. Its a bit strange because the CBR`s are heavily tuned and raced in may Asian countries with no problems, they seem to handle the extra prower / torque ok. I know EBC make better quality fiction plates for the CBR that fit the CRF, so that may be an option ]
  4. kiwi5

    kiwi5 Been here awhile

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    Jan 13, 2013
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    New Zealand
    The title says it all, I've got the instructions and torque setttings for the linkage; just need some more info for the swingarm bearings.... Any help appreciated!
  5. SAPB

    SAPB Long timer

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    Swingarm pivot nut 88 (9.0, 65) [N-m, kgf-m, lbf-ft]
    Shock arm to swingarm nut 74, (7.5, 55) [N-m, kgf-m, lbf-ft] {Apply engine oil to the threads}

    You doing metric down there?
  6. Schrauberklaus

    Schrauberklaus ***ifyer

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2010
    Oddometer:
    469
    Location:
    Phuket ,Thailand
    Hi

    The english owners manual say

    Headlight H4 55/60 W

    The Thai manual 12V 35/35W

    Take my one out today , its H4 35/35 W

    Looks like the weld in spark arestor is not the only difference
    on the Model sold here in Thailand .

    Replace it with a Osram Night Racer H4 55/60 W
    Much better Light now.
  7. Charleston

    Charleston Been here awhile

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    Your bike is ridden hard so this will be a great test. Thanks for leading the way. And the Traveler thread is very useful, thanks also for getting that started.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>

    I only noticed the slip when in 2<SUP>nd</SUP> or 3<SUP>rd</SUP> gear at moderate speed on pavement and then nailed the gas wide open. Freeplay adjustment helped but if it gets worse I will take it to Honda as you suggested since my motor is stock.<o:p></o:p>
    Off-road is probably harder on the transmission because you can abruptly go from no traction to traction under full power like landing a jump. I wondered if Honda designed the clutch to take some of the shock out. <o:p></o:p>
  8. callison

    callison Been here awhile

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    Dec 5, 2012
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    121
    Location:
    Piedmont Triad, NC
    Thanks SAPB, I have the files ready to go to do a writeup on how I did the swing arm service, just haven't had the time to get it put together. Shitty weather round here today, might be able to make some time to get it sorted out.
  9. D-Real

    D-Real n00b

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2013
    Oddometer:
    7
    Location:
    Marmora NJ
    Yeah I'm sure I can benefit from the saftey course. I'm going took look into midweek classes. I didn't see any available at the community college where they have weekend classes booking but hopefully they will soon. Millville is not that far away so that's another option I didn't know about, thanks for the info.

    As far as people driving crazy in NJ. I can vouch for thar. Especially in the summer since I live just outside of a beach resort. Of course I will be hitting the trails to avoid the summer traffic whenever I can but there are some Cracker Jack licensed drivers out here.

    Thanks for the fuel type information. I'm going to use regular. One thing that has me scratching my head is the ignition. When I put my key in and try to turn it, I have to wiggle, push, pull, etc... to get the thing to turn to the on position. I'm going to read my manual and/or talk to the dealer. Maybe I'm missing a step or maybe it has a faulty ignition.
  10. SAPB

    SAPB Long timer

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    Able to take a brief ride today. Tried pulling the clutch in 3rd, and revving, and snapping, no slipping at all, really abrupt. Maybe they made my bike on a Wednesday.
  11. SAPB

    SAPB Long timer

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    Try moving the bar end a little while turning the key, sometimes the thing just gets back a bit from being in the fully locked (bar turned full left, not the key locked position). Or just push the bar full left before trying the key.
  12. siyeh

    siyeh unproductive

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    Evansville, WI
    Our winter here in Wisconsin has been terrible long. Yesterday it got up to 41F and the roads were clear of ice and snow.
    Pushed the Lil Honda out of the basement, rooster tailed through about a foot of snow to get to my driveway, then put 27 wonderful miles on her. It was a delight

    Now today it is snowing again. :cry. Will spring ever get here?
  13. SAPB

    SAPB Long timer

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    I went out today, it was 47 degrees out. Even with heated gloves, it felt really good to get back in the nice warm house. Global warming?
  14. kiwi5

    kiwi5 Been here awhile

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    Excellent- I've got the torque setttings, just waiting on some photos! I did find a detailed pictorial on greasing the swingarm bearings for a klr650 so I am getting closer....
  15. kiwi5

    kiwi5 Been here awhile

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    Just had a crack at greasing up my linkage- found it pretty easy though I removed the dog legs first which differs slightly to what was mentioned in another post. Lucky I did this now as the upper dog leg bolt was corroded and the inner sleeve of this bolt had rust/corrosion as well. Another couple of wet winter months (we are in autumn now) and this bolt/sleeve would have been severely rusted. All other bolts were bone dry and probably one winter away from becoming rusty. No grease anywhere inside the needles, just a very light coating of weird light tan color non greasy crap. Wiped errything dry, polished off as much corrosion as I could and packed heaps of Mobil marine grade grease on all areas. I will get my dealership to replace the corroded bolt under warranty as I have done under 2000kms with only a couple of creek crossings. I will also get the dealership to grease the swingarm and steering bearings as warranty repair. Well at least I will try, if they refuse then they will lose out on all further sales which is not a small number.....moral of this story? Grease your linkages, swingarm and steering bearings NOW. Or sell the bike after a year.....!
  16. opticalmace

    opticalmace Been here awhile

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    SW Ontario
    Apologies if it's been covered, but how are lowering options on this bike? I haven't sat on one but I think I would need a couple inches+.
  17. SAPB

    SAPB Long timer

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    Go to Ramz's site, and the last two pictures when you scroll all the way down show two lowering options: http://rickramsey.net/CRF250L.htm
  18. LillaMan

    LillaMan n00b is okay by me.

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2012
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    39
    Location:
    Långås, Sweden
    Here's my recently completed fatbar conversion.

    I had a used BMW F800GS handlebar lying around, so I bought a cheap pair of converters and installed it.

    Much more comfortable riding position, standing and sitting.

    I'm still looking for a good set of handguards though. With temperatures still around freezing here, I can last an hour before I lose feeling in my fingers.

    [​IMG]

    And the test ride, yesterday:

    [​IMG]
  19. Turk

    Turk 'Bab Man

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    Oct 23, 2008
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    Location:
    Istanbul
    After 250kms of asfalt I finally introduced my LRP to something called mud :D

    [​IMG]
  20. Kevinsterner

    Kevinsterner Been here awhile

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    Aug 20, 2012
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    376
    Location:
    Cave Creek, AZ
    I need to replace my rear tire soon. I live in Arizona so most of my offroad travels are hard pack and rocky. (very rocky) I do ride it on the pavement (mostly to get to the dirt) The front looks to be in good shape. I also thought a little wider rear tire might be good also.. any suggestions will be appreciated. The ODO reads 2,011 miles


    Thanks