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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by joec63, Sep 4, 2012.
TCI has some interesting bits there, and those guards look stout....but OMG UUUUGLY!
The latest issue of Motorcycle Consumer News had an article how to test your fuel for alcohol, and how to make it separate from the gasoline so you can remove it......maybe brew up 5 gallons of the stuff....or buy some alcohol free fuel (hard to find in some places)....then go out and ride and burn it up and TRY to make it stall......sure would do all CRF owners a favor to determine if that's the bad guy
Do you mind me asking how much you got hit with duty and taxes and where your ordered from? I am looking into a Manrack and skid plate.
So what octane was the fuel after removing the alcohol?
Alcohol is much higher octane of 120 or so.
Adding some toulene will bring the octane back up.
Similar question as above, can an owner in California tell me how much the CA DMV charges for title / registration the first time?
California DMV $119
California Tax in Ventura County $403
$65 Document fee.
For a brand new bike that's under warranty not running right, besides draining that gas out and trying gas from a difference source I think folks are getting a little nutty with all these crazy ideas....
I use Startron fuel additive in my Husaberg to battle the well documented problems caused by ethanol and the injector in that bike. Never used any additive in my hundreds of thousands of miles on my BMW R1200R or F800GS.
Doesn't have much to do with the LRP though since it's a different bike, just shows how fuel injected bikes are all different and just cause something is one way on a certain bike doesn't mean anything for another.
I say let the dealer figure it out, since this seems to be an isolated issue, if there was a universal problem with all the ECU's programming, or injectors more people would be reporting this IMO.
Now that I think about it my 250l engine has done had the stalling issue on many occasions just didnt really acknoledge it and released the clutch....Vroom back on top. Mine may have done it 10 times out of the 4000 miles I have on it. Seems like everytime it did it was when I had been riding hard, choped the throttle grabed the clutch and downshifted.
I got quoted for around 5700 OTD in San Diego (including tax, prep, dealer fees), so the $403 is on top of the sale tax of the bike or is that included in the OTD price?
Just trying to get a clear picture how much of this bike will actually cost.
Should be in the OTD price, but the dealer should clarify that.
We paid more OTD than that, the dealer charging a ridiculous delivery and setup charge - a premium for a bike they can't keep on the floor for more than 1 day. We waited months for one to come into any of the 3 locals Honda dealers and when the one we bought came in, the timing was good with money so I didn't care about the premium. Didn't buy any extra warranty or wheel insurance from the dealer either.
I won't be giving this particular dealer any more money though for anything. Got my service manual and will be doing all the work myself, unless it's under warranty.
Exact same parameters would cause the stalling on my F800ST. Warm weather, highway running, pull up to the first stop, get down to neutral, couple of sputters, then stall.
Dont use alcohol laced fuel, or if there's no choice, use an alcohol fuel treatment . Stabil brand makes one now that helps.
I ordered the Seat Concepts saddle and delivered to Halifax there was no duty or taxes. The Manracks should arrive any day now, will let you know if I get hit with anything.
It's in the December 2012 (latest delivered) issue. Honda's NC700X on the cover.
Their is no duty on motorcycle parts coming from the US. Only exchange rate, shipping and your local taxes. It's important to note to make SURE any parts ordered from the US are shipped via US Postal Service. Both FedEx and UPS charge about $40 to broker your package through customs. USPS does not. Delivery is about the same.
It pays to shop around though, not all purchases are cheaper in the US. Just last weekn I was shopping for some Alpinestar Scout boots. Best price I could find in the US was $300. Found them in Canada for $259 along with free delivery. Deal!
Thanks for the install review and pics, looks real good. I've been wanting to clean up that part of the bike wihtout having to do a bunch of cutting and fabricating and risk the chance of screwing it up.
Article said removing ethanol (~113 octane) would turn a premium to regular, so add back octane booster
toluene...in my experience, is NASTY stuff....not for novices to handle
BUT....am I correct that regular is all this engine wants/needs?
Article is in MCN Dec 2012 issue...page 32-33
I know a couple of folks on here have the Manracks utility rack with a Rotopax. I just picked up a Rotopax with the pack mount and hardware:
but I can't figure out how the Rotopax base plate is supposed to mount to the rack plate. Or rather, the round holes on the Rotopax base plate obviously line up with the holes on the rack plate, but as far as I can tell there are no screws in the Rotopax kit that fit those round holes? The included four screws are for the square holes. I guess my question is, did you somehow make it work with was included in the kit or did you have to pick up another set of screws to make it work?
Toluene...in my experience, is NASTY stuff... I agree in more ways then one.
I cound run 10psi more boost in my turbo car with a strong blend. It sure made the car nasty fast...
Better be careful it will do nasty things to you if you handle it wrong.
It is a used when making gas thou. They used almost pure toulene in some race cars years ago. It worked great but was deemed too nasty.
Hey guys, I bought the Stage 1 Kit from Best Dual Sport Bikes. Bottom line, WELL worth the money!! I loved the bike before and now I really love it. I wasn't sure it was going to be worth the money or not but I figured why not. So I gave it a try, boy am glad I did. I opted for the kit with the powercore4 little more power, little more sound, little less money. I know a lot of guys on here don't like noisy bikes for their reasons but where I ride noise is not a problem. The kit came with the FMF programmer, Megabomb, Powercore4, 13T sprocket. Installed the 13T the other day and that took me about 30 minutes, took my time and made sure I did it right. Then installed the rest of the kit last night took me 2.5 hours and again that was taking my time and taking photos along the way. It was easy to install,everything went together perfectly and the customer service was quick and on point (had some questions before I bought it). The kit transformed the bike for sure, I am not a light guy, weighing in at 245lbs. Some parts of my commute I would have to downshift for a couple hills along the way, now the bike just pulls and keeps on pulling, power is there when I need it, awesome transformation. Just wanted you guys to know if you are considering the kit it is well worth the money in my opinion. I will post pictures and some video in the next couple days. My 2¢
Go to Pur-gas.org
List of dealer selling ethanol-free gas
I'll have to keep an eye on this thread. I own the same rack (not installed yet) and will be purchasing a Rotopax before spring. Which size of of Rotopax did you buy? I'm leaning toward the new 1.75US/gl unit. According to something I read, you can put in a full 2 US/gl into it. Which is 7.5l = FULL tank of gas for the CRFL! It's also only slight longer than the 1gl unit (same thickness).