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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.
Will pelican cases fit to the side of the stock rack? If so which cases should I get?
I'm running a 39T rear on mine with the stock front. It lowers the revs to 5500 @ 55mph, 6500@65 etc. Really happy with the ratio, even for cruising offroad a bit.
If you want to do any real highway riding on it (even 45-50mph), a windscreen is almost a must in my opinion. Especially on longer rides i'm a lot less fatigued since I added the screen. I ordered mine from screensforbikes and couldn't be happier with it. Longest trip I've done on it was 500 miles in a day...some interstate, lots of gravel and backroads.
Any suggestions as to where to find a decent, not too expensive 39t sprocket? And how hard is it to do the work myself?
I already followed your ink for the screensforbikes and requested info from them
I was, however, checking out your saddle bags! Where did you find that setup?? VERY nice!!
The box is attached to a plate that is screwed onto the rear fender thing. Don't you like my technical terms? The box locks and when it's attached to the plate it cannot be removed until the box itself is unlocked.
Will this work?
Part: JT Rear Steel Sprocket
Model: DR200SE Year: 1996-2009
O.E.M. Gearing: 12/53
That should work. If you aren't adverse to eBay, check there before purchasing as you may get a better deal. They also have a couple Sunstar brand currently listed @ $32.36 with free shipping. One of my sprockets is a Sunstar but I forget whether it's the front or rear but they both still look like new.
As far as changing it yourself ... you have to remove the wheel of course and removing the bolts that hold the sprocket on scared me as they were very tight the whole way out and did a lot of screeching. I was suprised neither broke, but they didn't.
You will probably have to shorten the chain also. My chain didn't have a master link, so I had to cut the chain and get a replacement o-ring master link. Cutting the chain was straight forward, but is tough. I also had trouble getting the new master link together as I didn't have the special tool. I used a small socket that would fit over just one pin and cranked it together with a small c-clamp moving back and forth from one pin to the other until the out piece would fit.
I suspected as much. What brand/model for the rack and the box?
Also, godwinmt, same question for your top-box setup.
I've thought about Pelican but:
-No case conveniently sized to fit a helmet plus some extra things.
-No easy on/off.
-No built-in locking.
It's a sunstar I ordered from motorcycle superstore. I've run it for 4000 miles now with no problems yet :)
As for the work, it's really simple. More just time consuming than anything. Use a dirtbike stand or some other sort of jack to get the rear wheel of the bike off the ground and supported, then pull the rear brake actuator rod (the rod that connects the pedal to the lever on the drum) and the rod that keeps it from spinning. Then you can pull the rear axle, drop the wheel out, and then pull the old chain (i'd recommend changing it with the sprocket as it was pretty tough for me to find a master link that would work with it). Then pull the bolts on the old sprocket, pull it off the wheel, put the new sprocket on, reinstall the bolts and tighten everything down. Put the wheel back on, lay the new chain up and see how long it needs to be, break the chain and install everything.
The bags in that picture are the Moose Racing expedition bags. I really liked them when I had them. They're waterproof for the most part (I'd still throw whatever's in them in a cheap drybag), and hold quite a bit. The top front strap runs underneath the seat, the rear top strap runs underneath you're top box plate, the bottom rear strap runs to the turn signal bracket, and the bottom front strap runs to the passenger footpeg supports. The right side bag rests on the heatshield on the stock muffler. I haven't had any problems with it getting too hot at all.
Unfortunately those bags aren't on the bike anymore. They survived several drops by me with no problem, but I loaned them to a friend for his KLR250 for the weekend, and he snagged one of the straps when trying to kickstart his bike. It ripped the straps out of the side of the bags I replaced them with a set of saddleman bags that are similar but a little smaller:
If I did it again, I'd get the mooses in a heartbeat.
Cycleracks rack (bought used off Craigslist).
Pelican Storm 2300 hard box (off of eBay).
Around $150 for the combo.....
She is very happy w the setup.
Eventually we'll put on shorter rear turn signals to have the rack protect them after the inevitable dirt nap....
I cant remember if I have asked you before about that screen, does it reduce gas mileage and doesn't it cause buffeting at 60mph plus?
A used cycle rack, you were lucky, i've been looking for a second hand one forever.
Yup, I'll be taking that across the river to the nearest bike shop to have the work done. I can perform basic maintenance on my bike but this is where I start to break things and start costing myself more money...
Thanks for the help!!!!
I might be willing to part ways with mine for a reasonable price if someone would give more details on working top-box setups (not Pelican).
I think it improved my milage a bit because it directs the wind over your chest etc. I really don't get much buffeting on it. If I'm riding for an extended period of time/distance at interstate speeds (15-20 miles), I'll scoot back and lay forward on the tank down completely behind it.
Also, we got snow yesterday so I figured I'd ride the DR in this morning :) 14 degrees :) Damn coldblooded bike takes forever to get moving in the morning.
I put on a lot of winter miles on my 200 a few years ago. The muffler rusted out. Got a new cast-off one from an inmate here.
Also, the Kientech jet kit plus messing with the idle screw really takes away much of the cold-bloodedness of the bike.
If you have a rack,you can alwasy get the cheapo top boxes from Whitney.They can also be used as side cases/panniers.
How much did the windshield set you back? I have a moose racing number plate bag on mine so I'd have to remove it if I was to go for the windshield. Looking good, nice jacket.
Any issues running the jet kit with the stock airbox configuration and exhaust? I think i'm going to play around with the screw on the bottom of the carb and see if I can get it to behave a bit better. It's not bad as long as you let it idle for a couple minutes and warm up.
The windscreen I think was ~$100 shipped, but I'm not sure. Peter is really nice to deal with over there.
I put 2 rows of studs in the knobbies today. Made a night and day difference on the slick stuff.
I wouldn't run the different jets without opening up the box in some way. I tried leaving the lid off, but I didn't like the additional noise, so I went to a 2-inch hole in the lid. That was considerably quieter. I have kientech's larger nozzle in the muffler, too.
When I was riding in really cold weather (like well below freezing) all the time a few years ago, the warm-up time was just too long, and it's cured now. It was always okay 35 degrees and up, just a little cold-blooded.
It'll probably help if you just richen up the idle circuit, but I found that the lean spot was somewhere off idle. It would pop off every time, even down to ten degrees, and sit there and idle, but you couldn't give it any throttle for a few minutes. Now with the jetting changes, it's much better.
Ladybug, I bet you have a weak battery in yours. Mine always pops right off, even below freezing.
It acts the same way you describe...idle seems fine,even a bit rich, but somewhere north of it when the throttle cracks, it says hell no i won't go.