the DR200 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.

  1. Wallrat

    Wallrat Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    837
    Location:
    Orange County, Ca

    Haha wow that's a new one...

    1st, never go back to that dealer again. I'm 100% serious. I'm not even sure how the guy that told you that manages to breathe on his own.

    2nd, any, yes any, motorcycle tire with the last number of 21 will fit on the front. The rear will fit anything probably 120 or 130 and smaller on the first number (width) and 18 on the last number (rim size). In other words, 90% of all off road knobbie tires in production will fit.

    I'd suggest getting a DOT approved tire. Dunlop D606 front and Pirelli MT21 rear is what I personally use on both my bikes. The MT-21 wears fairly quick if you ride on the street a lot.
  2. Bud11

    Bud11 n00b

    Joined:
    May 12, 2012
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    South of Denver
    Thanks - great information. Any chance you know the exact sizes you are using on your DR200 so I can find something I know works.
  3. Wallrat

    Wallrat Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    837
    Location:
    Orange County, Ca
    I'd actually favor another D606 on the rear vs. the MT-21 if I didn't have seat height limitations (my wife is 5'). The MT21 is a fine tire but wears quickly with road use. Honestly ANY TIRE meeting the requirements I suggested will fit. In DOT approved tires alone that gives you probably 40+ different tire/size combos to chose from. With my limitations, I had a choice between 2 tires and the MT21 won because it looked more aggressive.
  4. Conman

    Conman Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2009
    Oddometer:
    140
    Location:
    Long Island, New York
    I have MT21s mounted front and rear.
    Pictures next to OEM tires:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13058833&postcount=2628

    80/90-21 front and 120/80-18 rear. Both taller than OEM. There is a 110/80-18 rear. I went with the MT21 instead of the D606 because on paper they were closer in size to OEM than the Dunlop. These are 90/10 tires Dirt/Street. I barely ride on the street just between trails so I can't add any wear comments. I do like them in the dirt as they have way more bite than the OEM trail wings. On dry pavement, they don't seem squirmy but again, I don't ride much on the street. I run PSI in the 15-19 range.

    Con
  5. Bud11

    Bud11 n00b

    Joined:
    May 12, 2012
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    South of Denver
    Thanks Con, more really good info. and the pictures were nice for comparison purposes.
  6. Lateralus180

    Lateralus180 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    Chicago Burbs
    Hello

    This is my first post here but I have been browsing the forum for about two months now. I am a new rider and just got my Illinois motorcycle license this month. I purchased an 06 Suzuki DR200 recently and love the bike so far. This thread along with the members of ADV have been very well appreciated over the last month as the DR200 needed a lot of lovin'. My bike ran extremely lean and crappy from the factory but I have solved most of the issues with the help of other DR200 owners here and all of the great advice. Besides the lean issues, I had a bad petcock and there was gasoline all over the original air filter, in the air box, and in the crank case.

    My bike is a 2006 and had 1350 miles when I purchased it. I'll include a list of modifications here that I have done.

    Yamaha Fuel Petcock
    UNI Air Filter
    Airbox Lid Holes (three holes that are 1" in diameter)
    Kientech Jetting Kit

    I spent some time yesterday with the foot pegs and rear break lever. They were rusted quite badly so I disassembled them, pins and all for refinishing. I removed what rust I could with a wire brush and soap, black primed with a rust primer, and shot them all with Rustoleum truck bed liner. The truck bed liner is a thick flat paint with very fine sand particles or something like it embedded in the paint. I don't know if it'll add much more grip because they were already quite tacky but it was on sale where I work so eh!

    The muffler came off as well and was painted with Rustoleum 2000 degree engine enamel. It was discolored, scuffed, and somewhat rusted. I'm kind of disappointed with the engine enamel, as it's a very flat black-ish grey.

    I also added some 3M reflective tape (red/white) to the swing arm and side of the forks for added visibility.



    If anyone in Northern Illinois wants to ride just shoot me a PM. I'm somewhere near Will County and DuPage County (it's a secret!). :freaky


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  7. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2005
    Oddometer:
    103,448
    Location:
    right here on my thermarest

    Howdy, and nice pictures.
  8. Lateralus180

    Lateralus180 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    Chicago Burbs
    I wanted this post to be separate from my introduction above. :norton

    My rear spring is set to the softest setting which puts the seat down really low. It sags even lower when I sit on it because it's soft and I only weigh 125 LBS.

    I want to adjust the spring so it's a little stiffer and so the seat sits at the highest setting. The previous owner never gave me the adjustment wrench, if the bike even came with one from the factory? He said he lowered the seat when he got the bike but I don't know how.

    How do I go about raising the seat? It looks like I move the adjustment nut down until it can't go any further. The manual says you need to take the rear wheel off and remove the spring and shock assembly but can it be done without removing anything? I'm thinking maybe I have to prop the bike up so there is no pressure on the rear wheel.

    Advice is much appreciated, thanks!


    EDIT: Can it be done without a specialty wrench? If so, how? If not, where can I find a replacement? I would like to avoid buying a $25 adjustable wrench.
  9. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2005
    Oddometer:
    103,448
    Location:
    right here on my thermarest
    What you do is take a metal rod and a hammer and drive the rings on the threaded shock tighter. First back off the locking ring and then drive the other one around to compress the spring more. Do it in one- or two-thread increments and check how the shock feels every time. Then catch up with the locking ring when you've got the setting you like. I added a little preload to my shock this way. You don't need to take anything apart.
  10. Lateralus180

    Lateralus180 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    Chicago Burbs
    Awesome, thanks! I will see what I can do tonight. :clap
  11. Lateralus180

    Lateralus180 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    Chicago Burbs
    I'll share the information I have found on the rear suspension and making adjustments for the DR200 in case anyone wanted to know.

    The manual says if you want to adjust the rear suspension you need to take the wheel off and remove the entire shock assembly. I was able to use a metal stick and hammer to slowly move the adjustment nut without the hassle of removing the rear wheel, though it did ding up the nut and make it look less pretty. Who cares, right?

    The nut moves on threads that have a 1 to 1.5 inch travel -- I didn't measure the length of the threads but it appears to be closer to 1.5 inches. The higher you place the nut, the more loose and soppy the rear suspension will be. If you lower the nut, the suspension becomes more stiff. It will also raise the seat height a little more from the floor, but the biggest improvement in seat height is that the bike won't sag as much when you sit on it.


    The manual lists three suspension ranges, and gives an (uncompressed?) spring measurement for each setting.
    9.3" Soft
    9.1" Medium* (factory setting)
    8.9" Hard


    When adjusting my suspension, I just ignored the spring measurement. The adjustment nut was in the middle of the threads, so I am going to assume that's the medium setting. I will take the bike for a spin tomorrow morning and maybe I'll move the nut even lower.

    Will the bike handle any different on and off road with the bike adjusted for harder suspension? Obviously it will feel different but will it affect cornering and road grip much?
  12. tony the tiger

    tony the tiger Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    10,788
    Location:
    secret owner of a Parmesan cheese factory
    Today I pulled the carb & cleaned it - then installed the kit I got earlier this month.
    ...also cleaned & serviced the air filter... there was a couple ounces of motor oil in the airbox; maybe when I changed the oil a couple weeks ago I overfilled it :dunno it's all good though :norton ...anyways, I ran it up-n-down the street a few times, with the top of the airbox on - there was a slight hesitation on WOT accelleration. Back to the garage, and off with the lid - no more stuttering but I now know what y'all were talking about... doesn't sound so tame anymore! I know they say the seat provides adequate protection to the filter w/o the airbox lid... but I'm not real comfy with it off. Maybe an airbox mod in the near future, to provide more air AND protection.
    Another inmate told me he opened up the backside, where the airhorns originally are located. I've seen the "one big hole in the top" & the 3-hole mod... :scratch
    Ah well, it is what it is. :choppa :lol3
  13. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2005
    Oddometer:
    103,448
    Location:
    right here on my thermarest
    I put a two-inch hole in the lid. Still fairly quiet.

    Lateralus, making the suspension too stiff can make it non-compliant and cause problems with the wheel not maintaining contact with the ground over bumps. Too soft and the bike wallows and is hard to control. You're looking for the middle range. There are all sorts of ins and outs involved with this kind of stuff. I'd counsel you to make small changes and keep testing thoroughly after every adjustment.
  14. ADVCoop

    ADVCoop Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Acme, PA
    My wife brought her "new" bike home last night. It's only the second time she ever drove my truck and it's the first time ever she hauled a bike. But she was too excited to wait until Saturday when I could pick it up so she went after work yesterday.

    Of course they (my wife, the seller, and his wife) managed to drop it unloading it from his truck to put into ours, that is how the brake lever got curled LOL. I unloaded it myself without issue but I guess I have many years of practice :D .

    [​IMG]
  15. Lateralus180

    Lateralus180 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    Chicago Burbs
    I didn't have a 2" hole cutter but I did have a 1" cutter. I cut three holes in the lid in a triangular pattern. They are 1" in diameter, and three 1" holes should have roughly the same amount of air flow as a 2" hole.

    I tried the bike with no lid as well and the intake noise echoes upward and makes the bike extremely noisy when accelerating. If you drill enough holes through the lid it will provide enough air flow in my opinion and is only a little more noisy than it was from the factory.

    Also make sure you adjust the screw properly. I had the bike running way too rich when I first took it out, and it would hesitate a bit when I would open up the throttle. I thought it was a problem with the air box being too restricted but it ran smoothly when the screw was adjusted properly. The Kientech instructions say you should tighten the screw 15-16 full turns inward, and back out I think 1+1/8 turns. I ended up backing it out like the instructions said but my bike was running a little lean. I brought it out another full turn and it's running much better now.
  16. Bud11

    Bud11 n00b

    Joined:
    May 12, 2012
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    South of Denver
    Hope she enjoys the "new" bike. Looks nice. At least the first "drop" is out of the way now! Bud (originally from Allentown)
  17. ADVCoop

    ADVCoop Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    799
    Location:
    Acme, PA
    Thanks she is very excited. She rode it last night a little and loves it compared to the GZ250 we just sold.
  18. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2005
    Oddometer:
    103,448
    Location:
    right here on my thermarest

    That's a good little motor in the GZ250, but the ergonomics don't agree with me.
  19. JayGoldstein

    JayGoldstein Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    72
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    I've also experienced that hesitation when opening the throttle. I'm taking my bike in for the 1,000 km service next week and will mention this issue. Has anyone has gotten their dealer to adjust the carb, or do they refuse to do so because of emissions regulations?
  20. Lateralus180

    Lateralus180 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    Chicago Burbs
    Do you have the jetting kit or is the bike stock?