the DR200 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.

  1. Wallrat

    Wallrat Been here awhile

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    Oct 8, 2011
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    955
    Location:
    Orange County, Ca
    The front fender adds a lot to the vibration as well, and the bars don't help. Yeah I know they're weighted, etc. but I found significantly less vibration with a set of Pro Taper Evo2's.
  2. JayGoldstein

    JayGoldstein Adventurer

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    Mar 21, 2012
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    Location:
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    I'm planning on switching to more street-oriented tires, along the lines of the Shinko 244, next spring. What sizes (front and rear) did you get?
  3. pozo

    pozo n00b

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    Feb 1, 2011
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    7
    The Shinko 244s are one of only a few tires that actually fit the DR200SE: the front is a 2.75x21, the rear a 4.1x18. To me, the 50/50 combo for on-road/off-road design suits my needs quite well. Shinkos are great tires --this is my third set (had the 705s on the KLR 650, and a Yamaha XT250) and had nothing but good experiences.
  4. JayGoldstein

    JayGoldstein Adventurer

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    My research indicates that there is quite a variety of tires in sizes that will fit the DR200. Shinko advertises the 244 as 70/30 on/off road (and the 700 as 80/20). The 244 would be quite suitable for my type of riding.
  5. pozo

    pozo n00b

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    From shinkotiresusa.com: the 244 is 50/50, the 700 is 60/40, and the 705 is 80/20, on-road/off-road respectively. (Several online retailers had these numbers different.) Who knows what the ratios actually mean... Perhaps it's all just marketing fluff, but at least one can get a sense of how agressive these are by looking at the tire treads. The 705s are clearly the smoothest, followed by the 700s, followed by the 244s --for whatever *that's* worth...

    Regardless, I'm pretty pleased with the 244s, and you might be too...

    Happy riding.
  6. JerryH

    JerryH internal combustion rider

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    Jul 4, 2009
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    6,991
    Location:
    Chandler, AZ
    The DR200 is a great little dual sport, but there is no aftermarket support for it. I have an XT225, and have modified it with a 4 gallon Clarke tank, Immix Racing rack, kickstarter, centerstand, Progressive front springs and a Works Performance rear shock. These mods have turned it into a near perfect trail bike, even for my 220 pounds. I can't seem to find any of these things for the little DR. It would be nice is Suzuki made a DR250 with more power and better suspension to compete with the CRF250L and XT250. I left the KLX250 and WR250 out, as those are more hardcore dirtbikes. If I were going to spend the $$$ for one of those, I would get the DRZ400S
  7. I'm Trying

    I'm Trying Adventurer

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    Feb 1, 2012
    Oddometer:
    24
    Location:
    Southern wv
    My dr200se had 3000 miles on it when I bought it. It had been stolen and recovered and sat in storage for 4 years. Once I got it cleaned up and running it would run but wouldn't idle. Ended up being a chipped intake valve and eroded valve seat.

    I priced out a new dr200 head and cam and used ones on ebay. They ranged from a 799 to 1000. But I found a ported polished 86 lt230s head with stainless steel valves and and a stage 2 WB cam. For a 100 dollars shipped. I've put 4000 miles on it.

    I have a kientech kit and exhaust on the bike and to get this setup running reliably I had to switch back to the stock needle and up the main jet to a 142.5. It gets 64 mpg. Unfortunately it has a flat spot in the power band from 5000-6500. It pulls strong below and above. That equals 50 to 60 mph. I have to use more throttle to ride 55 than 65.

    This is why I was looking for a 43 tooth sprocket I'd like to move the flat spot away from my 55mph cruising speed.

    Also has anyone had a valve seat area welded and reground. I would like to get the dr head back on the bike. Since it has a 1 mm bigger exhaust valve and the intake exhaust ports better match what's on the bike.
  8. Andyinhilo

    Andyinhilo Long timer

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    I never did this on a DR200, but when I was working as an auto machinist, it was routine to install new valve seats in aluminum heads. Just pull or cut out the old one and drive a new one in place, machine the seat, lap the valve and you're done. If the damaged area is beyond the existing seat, seats are available in many different sizes, or you can have it welded and re-cut prior to installing the new seat.
  9. FlownOver

    FlownOver Old and slow man

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2011
    Oddometer:
    5
    Location:
    Southwest Montana
    As I pulled up in front of my hangar to put the DR200 away for the winter, the clutch cable broke (right at the lever). Lucky timing, but I need to get a replacement. Any suggestions for suppliers? By the way, checking the alignment at the lever, there appears to be some offset. I'm planning on fiddling with things so the next cable lasts longer.
  10. jamoka3

    jamoka3 Veritas Aequitas

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    47
    Location:
    Nj.
    I have a 2005 Suzuki Dr 200SE, it wont start with the starter button!

    If I remove the seat and jump the starter solenoid it will crank over and start just fine(Bike in Neutral. ign. key is on / power is on)



    With the bike in Neutral and the ignition key to On it wont start with the main starter button (yellow)...

    Now if i jump the bike with the starter solenoid i can still turn it off by the start/ stop kill switch, so does that mean its working properly?...Any ideas?

    Is the starter button bad? how can i test this?

    Please any info will be great.

    Thanks.
  11. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Nov 19, 2005
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    110,460
    Location:
    right here on my thermarest
    Are you pulling the clutch lever in, too? There's an interlock switch there, too.


    It's very common that either the clutch lever switch or the sidestand switch is bad and so the starter button is disabled.
  12. jamoka3

    jamoka3 Veritas Aequitas

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    yes im pulling in the clutch, is there a way to bypass / test the clutch switch and kick stand switch?
  13. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    You could put a jumper wire in to bypass the switches. The starter switch could be dirty, too. You could take it apart and check it. Don't lose the little spring that flies out if you take it apart.
  14. jamoka3

    jamoka3 Veritas Aequitas

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    the side stand switch is obvious, so stupid question i guess,
    but were is the clutch safety switch located at?
  15. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    There's a slot in the underside of the clutch lever near the pivot point that the switch fits into. If I remember right (the bike's at home) there are two screws that hold the switch up in position underneath the lever.
  16. jamoka3

    jamoka3 Veritas Aequitas

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    so do you just un-screw it from the clutch lever and jump it out right there?
    you can pm me if you like so we don't fill up the forum,:D
  17. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Oddometer:
    110,460
    Location:
    right here on my thermarest
    Yes, you can. I understand you can just plug the wires together behind the headlight, too. The switch parts are 24, 25, and 26 here:


    http://www.bikebandit.com/2001-suzuki-dr200se/o/m5826#sch239702
  18. jamoka3

    jamoka3 Veritas Aequitas

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    i took the switch off the clutch lever and jumped it out right there with some alligator clips, and the bike started right up.:D
    Can i leave it jumped for now (or forever) or will it mess something up?
  19. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Oddometer:
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    right here on my thermarest
    Success!

    Lots of people leave it that way, but it's a little cleaner to jump it behind the headlight. Are you sure you couldn't clean it and put it back together?
  20. jamoka3

    jamoka3 Veritas Aequitas

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    awesome thanks a lot Klay i appreciate it!