the DR200 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.

  1. bradluke0

    bradluke0 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    221
    Location:
    Tampa , Fl
    Hi all ! I would re-torque the head down with a torque wrench and see if that helps . If not , I would just deal with it ( small leak) or replace the head gasket ( big leak).
  2. Goon310

    Goon310 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    California
    I'm going on a ride after work today, and will wipe the head off before leaving.
    If there is a butt load of oil all over, I'll order a gasket and try and fix it.
    If not, I'll torque everything down and put up with it.

    The bike did sit for a long time before I got it, 6 or so years in a garage and was "cleaned up a bit" according to PO and rode a little then back into garage as he bought more bikes. So, I imagine whatever gasket was or is there probably dried up good deal and is just seeping a bit.

    I'll report back with what I find after todays ride.
    If I don't have too, I don't want to have to take it all apart.
    Don't need another project bike with lots of down time.
    They all become a project sooner or later :rofl
  3. ADVCoop

    ADVCoop Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    798
    Location:
    Acme, PA
    We went for a ride Sunday and I noticed my wife's bikes squeaking a lot on bumps. So I ordered up all new swing-arm and linkage bearings. Started the tear down today. Some of the troubles I had today with rusty bolts, etc., are my fault. Lack of maintenance last year and neglect over two winters.

    Stuck swingarm bolt. That took some persuading to get out:

    [​IMG]

    Something's missing I just can't figure out what...Actually in the blurry pic you can see the linkage hanging. The swingarm had to come off to get to that top bolt.
    [​IMG]

    Shock apart. Other than being mega dirty it seems ok. I wanted to take it out for awhile because the pre-load adjusters were rusted and wouldn't turn and it was set way too heavy for her.
    [​IMG]
  4. JayGoldstein

    JayGoldstein Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    69
    Location:
    Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
    I have a ScreensForBikes light tint screen. The last three photos in their DR200SE gallery are of my bike (www.screensforbikes.com/gallery/suzuki/dr-200-96-10/).

    I opted for a smaller screen because I was concerned that something the size of the S-06 Spitfire might create too much resistance when riding into a strong headwind (something I have to contend with frequently here on the prairies). The ScreensForBikes screen fits well, helps to deflect wind and insects, and (IMHO) complements the looks of the bike.
  5. bradluke0

    bradluke0 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
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    221
    Location:
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    Hi all ! Well crap , now my bike has developed an oil leak on the left rear corner of the engine , at the base gasket. So I decided to try and tighten the base nut on the stud . Tightened it some , still leaking . So I made a decision ....tighten down until it quits leaking or snap it off . Either way it will either stop leaking , not stop leaking or the stud will pop . Well the dang thing snapped off so I tore down the whole top end . The bore looks good , the piston looks good and the head looks good . It has 4000 miles on it so I will probably have the cylinder honed and new piston and rings installed . The source of the leak ? The base gasket was broken all the way across , just next to the stud .
  6. Goon310

    Goon310 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    California
    No way!
    Mine's got 4K on it too.
    I didn't go on a ride tonight, had some other crap to deal with.
    But I'm going to take a long ride tomorrow and see how much oil seeps.
    If it's not a lot, I'll torque it down and put some Suzuki/Yamaha/Honda-"Bond" sealant around where I think it's leaking. If that doesn't fix it I'll buy a new gasket.

    My oil site glass doesn't show a noticeable reduction of oil, so it's not like it's draining out and dripping all over the place.

    Do you have the torque specs for the cylinder head?
    I can't find them online and my owners manual is extremely basic.

    Also, JayGoldstein, I dig that windshield, reminds me of a KTM 990 or something. Unique look.
  7. bradluke0

    bradluke0 Been here awhile

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    Hi all ! I do not have a service manual yet , ordered one on ebay last week . I should have it by next weekend . I will look up the torque specs when I get it . After cleaning up the head and cylinder I think I am just going to put it back together with new gaskets . The ring gap is very small .006 and .0065 inches and it doesn't change in the bore as I checked them at the bottom , middle and top . After cleaning up the piston it looks great , no scratches or anything on the skirts . Wisdom would probably dictate I use new piston , rings and fresh hone . Unless convinced otherwise I am going to cheap out . Bike will be ridden less than 1000 miles a year .
  8. Goon310

    Goon310 Adventurer

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    Nov 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    California
    Appreciated!
    I figure I'll go for a ride and torque it down when its warm for now?
  9. bradluke0

    bradluke0 Been here awhile

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    Dec 24, 2012
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    Hi all ! Probably only torque when cold , with no specs it's hard to know how tight . Does anyone with a manual able to post the torque specs and maybe the few pages where the top end is assembled ? thx in advance for any info.......brad
  10. ADVCoop

    ADVCoop Been here awhile

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    Aug 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Acme, PA
    Sorry the formatting will be weird but I copied/pasted this from my .pdf manual.

    TIGHTENING TORQUE
    ENGINE
    ITEM N·m kgf-m lb-ft
    Cylinder head cover bolt 10 1.0 7.0
    Camshaft sprocket bolt 11 1.1 8.0
    Cylinder head nut 8 mm Diam. 27 2.7 19.5
    Cylinder head nut 6 mm Diam. 10 1.0 7.0
    Cylinder base nut 10 1.0 7.0
    Starter clutch securing bolt 25 2.5 18.0
    Cam drive chain tension adjuster bolt 7 0.7 5.0
    Generator rotor nut *80 8.0 58
    Crankcase bolt 11 1.1 8.0
    Primary drive gear nut 50 5.0 36.0
    Clutch cover bolt and generator cover bolt 10 1.0 7.0
    Starter motor lead wire connecting bolt 25 0.25 1.8
    Starter motor mounting bolt 10 1.0 7.0
    Clutch sleeve hub nut 50 5.0 36.0
    Gearshift arm stopper 19 1.9 13.5
    Engine oil drain plug 28 2.8 2.0
    Oil filter cap nut and oil pump filter cap bolt 7 0.7 5.0
    Engine sprocket bolt 25 2.5 18.0
    Engine mounting bolt (Top side) 41 4.1 29.5
    Engine mounting bolt (Front side) 88 8.8 63.5
    Engine mounting bolt (Rear side) 10 1.0 7.0
    Engine mounting bracket bolt 41 4.1 29.5
    Exhaust pipe nut 23 2.3 16.5
    Muffler connection bolt 23 2.3 16.5
    Muffler mounting bolt (Front side) 23 2.3 16.5
    Muffler mounting bolt (Rear side) 44 4.4 32.0
  11. bross

    bross Where we riding to?

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2005
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    4,739
    Location:
    Osoyoos, BC
    Baby powder is a great way to find a leak. Sometimes it's hard to pinpoint exactly where a leak is coming from on a bike because the oil gets blown up, back and everywhere away from the actual leak. Clean the engine really good, pressure washer if you're careful. Let dry, then sprinkle, shake, blow on the baby powder. Go for a short ride. The leak should be clearly evident in the baby powder. Good luck.
  12. pozo

    pozo n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    7
    That's right. I got mine at Amazon for $70: http://goo.gl/QxRMu
  13. Dorito

    Dorito Dreamer and Doer

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    Jul 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    5,671
    Location:
    Maryland
    When pounding around the single track, the idle screw tightens up. This of course makes the bike idle fast, which means stopping my trail ride to re-adjust the screw back to normal.

    Anyone else have this problem? The fix?
  14. Goon310

    Goon310 Adventurer

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    Nov 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    California
    Hey all.
    I think my leak is coming from the tapet adjusting cover?
    I am not sure what the actual name is, I forget.
    But it is the circular covers at both the front and rear on top of the engine.
    They were both loose, and covered in oil.
    I tightened them, and changed my oil to 20-50.

    I will also try the baby powder trick, and I bought some RTW black sealant I will put once I find the leak. I will ride tomorrow and try and locate it, today it seemed as if it only came from those circular covers. Seeping, not a dripping leak, though.
  15. Codyp1814

    Codyp1814 Adventurer

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    Sep 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    11
    Location:
    Chicago
    You can be easily fooled on where it is exactly leaking. I had the same leak up around there and I thought first it the camshaft plug, then the front valve cap seal, then rear valve cap seal, so I just replaced all 3 seals. I still don't totally know which one it was.

    http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts...EAD/parts.html

    Buy #16 (comes with both front and rear seals) and #17 (cam plug).
  16. Jodaddy

    Jodaddy Adventurer

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    Mar 9, 2013
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    84
    Location:
    Missoula, MT
    Two weeks and I finally finished reading the whole thread. I am fairly new to wrenching on MC s but I have been working on my cars and lawn mowers weed wackers, etc for years. My 01 is the newest bike I have worked on. I own 2 xr100's both which I bought in pieces so I am familiar with the 4strke singles. This dr is the first running bike i have ever bought. I pull the valve cover to adjust the valves on the Hondas but I see the dr has those two inspection plugs. Do I pull the valve cover on the dr to adjust the valves or just those plugs? Thanks, joe
  17. Joelness

    Joelness Adventurer

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    Apr 27, 2011
    Oddometer:
    86
    Location:
    Randle, WA
    just the plugs
  18. bradluke0

    bradluke0 Been here awhile

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    Dec 24, 2012
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    221
    Location:
    Tampa , Fl
    Hi all ! Does anyone know if the cylinder is plated or just an iron bore??
  19. Goon310

    Goon310 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    California
    Well, it's not terrible, just seeping, Luckily.
    No puddles under the bike or anything like that.
    I'll bookmark this link and will buy the seals if it becomes a major issue.
    For now it seems "ok" since I tightened it up a bit and changed to a thicker oil.

    Gonna do the baby powder trick tomorrow, too!

    Appreciate everyone's help and quick answers.
  20. bradluke0

    bradluke0 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    221
    Location:
    Tampa , Fl
    Hi all! The dealer looked in the service manual and Suzuki says to replace the cylinder if it is scratched or otherwise damaged , so that tells me it is a plated cylinder . So , do I reuse the rings or install new rings and hope they seat? The used rings have almost no wear and are at the "tight" spot of the specs . My intuition tells me just to put it back the way it was , not sure the new rings will seat against an un-honed cylinder wall. Goon310......I would not use 20-50 in this motor unless I was in Death Valley . 10-40 gives better flow through the engine , especially the bearings .