the DR200 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.

  1. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Ours are apparently the non-plated version...2001 model DR200s.
  2. Sateev

    Sateev Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2010
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    124
    Location:
    Thailand
    Yeah, I wondered about the model year - Andy's brochure post was from I believe, a 2004.

    Mine is a 2002, and definitely not plated.

    (Bummer: another Craigslist dipwad just cancelled, so the bike is still for sale.)
  3. Sateev

    Sateev Been here awhile

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    Thailand
  4. bradluke0

    bradluke0 Been here awhile

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    Dec 24, 2012
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    222
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    Tampa , Fl
    Hi all ! Wow , thanks for putting this mystery to bed . Mine is a 2005 with the SCEM on the side so it is the aluminum / plated cylinder . The wear limit on the rings is .02" and mine are .006" and .007" . Luckily my service CD came in yesterday so now I have some actual instructions. Tonight I will put it back together . Thanks again you guys , you're awesome ! brad
  5. bradluke0

    bradluke0 Been here awhile

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    Dec 24, 2012
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    Hi all ! ok , I have hit just one snag that the manual does not address . The cam chain tensioner.....it can go in both ways and the piston part with the ratchet is offset . Does the piston part go top left or right bottom . Can someone post a picture of one that has never been removed? Thx again guys.......brad
  6. AleXtz

    AleXtz Minimal2 the fulness

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2009
    Oddometer:
    70
    Location:
    Volcanos of Mex. City

    Finally my buddy/mechanic has done some service to my 33K miles DR. What was done:

    -Instead of putting yamaha bond on the valve cover junction we have made a gasket out of a special kind of carboard, and a got as well a gasket for the crankcase cover.

    -replaced #16 & #17 from the link above

    -got valve adjustment

    -installed a new oem gas petcock

    -the gas tank had a small crack right in the area where you screw it to the bike's frame. Got it welded, no paint was messed!! a great job done there too.

    - With little help of the buddies from the russian djebel forum located this other big source of leaking. Its a gap developed in the sensor. Some of them agreed to replace #33, #34 and #35 from this website http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/mode...ifting&usg=ALkJrhhA7i2rX5CccodPQOW0DvRUfEMvTQ

    [​IMG]



    My mechanic just filled this gap with the kind of carboard for making gaskets to create pressure and push back

    [​IMG]


    Observations:

    The previous owner splatted all over yamaha bond, but the shit was still fresh! Thats why the oil inside was easily spitted through. My mechanic told me that when applying bond, it has dry a little bit, then tight all screws around.

    No more gas smell in my parking, no more drippings all over. Now the engine runs smooth, sounds better when driving. Can fill that phat ass tank now.

    So now its just enjoying:clap Thanks a lot guys from advrider and djebel-club.ru ...

    Well almost... now the rear shock squeaks. That noise is driving me nuckin futs... How bad it could be?

    -Alejandro
  7. Kleio

    Kleio Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2013
    Oddometer:
    17
    <style type="text/css">P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; }</style> Has anyone had the Kientech stock exhaust mod done?


    How did you ship your exhaust to them (UPS, FedEx)? How did you package it? What was the cost of shipping?


    What was the turnaround time? How did they ship it back to you? Did you have to pay the return shipping cost?


    Are you satisfied with the results of the mod?



    Thanks.


    [​IMG]
  8. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    I sent mine via UPS, don't remember how much it cost. I'm very happy with the mod, and it doesn't make the muffler much louder. I think shipping back to me was part of his cost.
  9. miniroot

    miniroot running in: please pass

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    364
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Hey, guys.

    Long time no read. I've just got the old DR200SE out of mothballs to take me out into the bush to do some hunting. I recall a while back there was some interest in the DF200 "farm" bikes we get down here in NZ, and in the sweet front and rear racks they're equipped with. I recall someone here (Karl?) having a really nice DF200 all done up in military OD green, in fact.

    I bought a front and rear pair of racks for my SE way back when but they weren't a bolt-on fit if I wanted to keep the bike legal, which at the time I did.

    But my 200 was demoted to dedicated trail bike a while back, hasn't been legal for some time. And, as I got round to fitting the rear rack this weekend I thought you guys might be interested in the write-up I did:

    [​IMG]

    http://christophereece.blogspot.co.nz/2013/03/fitting-df200-rack-to-suzuki-dr200se.html

    Enjoy!

    I hope we're all keep them rubber-side down and dirty.

    Cheers,

    Chris.
  10. Kleio

    Kleio Adventurer

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    When you shipped it to Kientech, how did you box it? Did you happen to have a box with the correct dimensions? Did you have to add the packing peanuts?

    Sorry to be asking so many questions, but I'm thinking of doing the jet kit/exhaust mod and trying to get as much information as I can.

    Thanks.
  11. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    I think I just picked a random box that fit and stuffed in clumped up newspaper around the muffler on all sides.
  12. Goon310

    Goon310 Adventurer

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    Nov 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    52
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    California
    With heavier oil, my leaking stopped.
    But my shifting felt very clunky.
    So I switched back to 10-40, semi-synthetic 'cause thats all Cycle Gear had when I was in.
    Works fine, it still "leaks" but its more like a slight film of oil at the top of the cylinder head. Almost like condensation, but oil.
    It's really not noticeable, but I'll probably end up getting the gaskets.
  13. bradluke0

    bradluke0 Been here awhile

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    Dec 24, 2012
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    Tampa , Fl
    Hi all ! My experiance with heavy oils mirror yours . On a older Suzuki I had , the oil temp went up by 25 deg when we changed it from 20-50 to 10-40. The shifting was bad also with the heavier oil. BTW , found a pic of a DR200 motor online and reinstalled my cam chain tensioner , it goes in with the piston on the bottom right side . Motor runs perfect with no leaks .
  14. blaster11

    blaster11 Some days.....

    Joined:
    May 7, 2008
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    Location:
    Southern Maryland

    Nice write up and good looking rack!
  15. VenomRS4

    VenomRS4 n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2012
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    Hey all, I just joined the dr200se club. I picked up an 05' with 1k miles on it. So far, I love the bike. I plan on doing the kientech exhaust mod, airbox mod, and jet it...as well as going up one tooth on the counter shaft sprocket so I can get a little higher cruising speed. I'd also like to get a rack and a skid plate...but these will come later. Anyway, I'm from Central Massachusetts and that is where I do most of my riding. If anyone is in the area, shoot me a pm...im always down to tear it up!

    Heres a few pics of the bike in the old Rutland Prison Camps (really cool place, lots of history) and the Sterling powerlines trail which is a nice challenging place to ride.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
  16. Kleio

    Kleio Adventurer

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    17
    Just received the Kientech jet kit in the mail and I am surprised at the sparse instructions that came along with it.

    There are five pages, each with a black and white photograph and some text describing what is in the photograph. However, I was hoping step by step instructions on how to install each of the components of the jet kit.

    One of the pages which shows the fuel screw contains the follow line: "drilling the epa plug out for removal of the stock fuel screw". Say what? What am I supposed to drill out? How am I supposed to do this?:huh

    I also wish there had been some explanation on how to actually remove the carburetor from the bike.

    Is there some site (blog, etc.) I can go to get some more detailed instructions?

    Thanks.
  17. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    There's a port on the underside of the carb just forward of the float bowl where the fuel screw resides. There's a brass plug in the port. The fuel screw is behind it. You need to get the plug out so you can remove the fuel screw. What most people do is carefully drill a hole in the plug so you can turn in a machine screw in the hole to get a grip on the plug and yank it out. The trick is to not drill too far and let the drill bit damage the screw recessed underneath the plug. Turn the carb sideways and you'll see the port. Maybe you'll be lucky and somebody will already have taken the plug out. But it's not really a big deal to get it out. If it's out, you'll see the slotted head of the fuel screw. If it's still there, you'll see the blank face of the plug.
  18. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    You don't need to remove the carb...just take the throttle cables off and loosen the screws that hold the rubber manifold and the airbox on the carb and rotate the carb 90 degrees so you can remove the float bowl screws.
  19. Kleio

    Kleio Adventurer

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    Jan 13, 2013
    Oddometer:
    17
    Thanks for your quick response!

    On one of the photographs they show the tip of fuel screw "tower" being "trimmed" with a hack saw blade. Is this how you did it? Is it possible to use a Dremel circular saw instead?

    Thanks again!
  20. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Location:
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    You could use a Dremel tool. Just make sure you don't get any metal dust in the carb...i.e. make sure there's a fuel screw installed to keep the particles out. I put the new jets in two DR200s...one needed the tower ground down a little and on the other, the Kientech screw fit without any grinding. I think I actually just used a file to take down the one that needed it a little.