the DR200 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.

  1. 73Mustang

    73Mustang Been here awhile

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    Yeah, still under warranty. I going to take it back to the dealer, and let 'em look at it. That's why I paid the big bucks for a brand new one--this service. I'm having to stomp on the shifter to down shift. Never had it this bad in the over one dozen motorcycle I've owned. I doubt it's due to overheating. I don't think the engine ever overheated. It was felt really hot because weather has been super hot lately.

    Problem is that dealership is 1 hour away. They wouldn't give me an opinion over the phone. They just want me to bring it in. I need to get this sorted out before my Colorado trip. I would hate to be slamming on the shifter up and down the Rocky Mountains.
  2. 73Mustang

    73Mustang Been here awhile

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    I've owned many, many motorcycle. I've bought at least 6 brand new motorcycles. They've all had smooth clutch off the showroom floor. Even the $1200 Chinese bike shifted smooth.

    I've put 200 miles of city riding. And the clutch hadn't gotten any better.
  3. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    I would tell them to fix it. That's very unusual. Stand your ground.
  4. bross

    bross Where we riding to?

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    Picked these up for my wife's bike yesterday and just got them installed...

    [​IMG]

    bit bigger platform for standing than the stock pegs
    [​IMG]

    stock
    [​IMG]

    PivotPegz
    [​IMG]

    She only rode from the shop back up to the house but said they feel good. :clap

    I like the feel of them so may have to get a pair for my DR.
  5. ben2go

    ben2go Moto Flunky

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    You heard correctly.When it happens the clutch will stick and become draggy like the lever isn't in far enough.I just replaced a clutch that was doing that in one of my GS5's.
  6. 73Mustang

    73Mustang Been here awhile

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    Is it bad to use synetic oil when the bike has only 200 miles?

    If so, when can I switch to synthetic?
  7. bross

    bross Where we riding to?

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    I use full synthetic in all our bikes from the first service on. Synthetic is just oil, only better than Dino oil. Everything else is just myth. I use AMSOIL 10W40 in all our bikes.
  8. Wallrat

    Wallrat Been here awhile

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    I've spoken with many old school engine fanatics over the years in regards to single cylinder motorcycle engines and the unanimous conclusion was to use dino oil during break in, then switch to synthetic. The idea is that dino oil allows for better wear in of the parts experiencing friction, particularly the rings. Everyone seems to differ on how they like to do break in and when you should change the oil over to synthetic so I adopted a marriage of several different theories:

    Cycle 1: Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature while at idle. Shut it down and let it air cool to ambient.

    Cycle 2: Start the bike and allow a brief warm up, then ride it easy in the lower-mid rpm range with as little load on the engine as you can manage. Avoid fast acceleration and whatever you do, don't lug it. Stay out of top gear and don't keep the rpms the same for more than a few seconds. Residential streets are pretty much ideal for this step. Ride for 10-15 minutes like this and then park it again and let it cool off to ambient.

    Cycle 3: Another 10-15 minute ride while varying the throttle. Again, no top gear and avoid lugging it at all costs. This time you'll want light-medium power and mix in a short burst of acceleration every 30-60 seconds or so. I generally will hit WOT on the last 4 or 5 power bursts. Park it and while the bike is still warm, change the oil and filter. Again, stick with dino oil.

    Cycle 4: Fill the tank and repeat this step until it's empty. Only ride for 15-20 minute sessions, and keep varying the RPM. You'll want some WOT but don't make the engine work too hard for too long. Whatever you do, don't lug it. The idea is to make the engine work at maximum output, but not overheat. Allow ample cooling time between fast WOT moments. Let the engine cool to ambient after each ride. After the tank is empty you need to change the oil and filter again using dino oil.

    Cycle 5: Ride the bike however you want. Always avoid lugging since nothing is harder on the engine. Once you hit 1000 miles, switch to synthetic.
  9. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    I broke my 200 in by riding it flat out up the highway from 5,000 feet to 10,000 feet in the front range in Colorado. Frankly, the motor is so overbuilt that I don't think it much matters.
  10. bross

    bross Where we riding to?

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    That sounds like a very sound break in procedure. Personally I just don't think you need to go to that level. I agree with everything except the oil changes. Change the oil at the first service and just ride.

    The key point in your method is "the old school", so many things have changed, for the better since the "good old days". Better oil, better metallurgy, better manufacturing even on our 20 year old DRs.
  11. 73Mustang

    73Mustang Been here awhile

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    Did my first fill up today. Incredible! Used up 2.5 gallons. Odometer said 210 miles. There's still 1 more gallon in the tank.

    I'm so glad I didn't buy the CRF250...having to refill every 80 miles would suck.
  12. Wallrat

    Wallrat Been here awhile

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    Syntetic oils didn't hit the market until the late 60's. When you think about it, the DR engine has more in common with a late 60's VW engine than anything I can think of on the market today. That old school thought process still applies well to quite a few "modern" dirtbike engines.
  13. suseuser

    suseuser Love to ride

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    Earlier I posted that I was having cut-out issues with the DR. I've had a chance to put a few hundred miles on the '06. I've cleaned the carb. I have a "flat-spot" in the mid power band at cruise. The bike purr's like a kitten at idle. And It runs great at the higher RPM's. It's the cruise area at the shift point's that I'm having issues. Once I shift into the next gear, if I don't continue accelerating it behaves like it's running out of gas. It's when I try to hold a constant speed in the mid-rpms that the problem arises. It backfires, hesitates and act's exactly like it's running out of fuel. When I open up the throttle the problem goes away. Also if I shift aggressively thru the gears I never have an issue. I feel like I have to wring-out the motor to prevent the problem. I guess I can live with it. But, it just doesn't seem right. I've considered the Kientech jet kit that seems so prevalent on the forum. I've also considered putting a little thicker washer under the main jet. I'm just not sure where to start as far as thickness goes.
  14. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Is the carb for sure thoroughly cleaned? It shouldn't be doing that.
  15. bross

    bross Where we riding to?

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    Here's a diagram to show what jets are in play at the different throttle openings. I would clean or replace the appropriate jet.

    [​IMG]

    Taken from this website...
    http://www.dansmc.com/carbs2.htm
  16. Jodaddy

    Jodaddy Been here awhile

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    Did you adjust the fuel mixture yet? I replied to your post on the other forum about the hanging idle. Sounds like it is the same off idle pilot circuit.
  17. suseuser

    suseuser Love to ride

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    The jets sure "looked" clean before and after I cleaned them. But, as I stated in my earlier post, the bike had been sitting for a while. Maybe even a couple years. I didn't soak the jets or carb for hours. It was probably 10 or 15 minutes. I guess it might be worth it to tear it back apart and let them sit overnight or longer in carb cleaner.
  18. suseuser

    suseuser Love to ride

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    I haven't messed with the fuel mixture. It's under a cap that you drill out to access, correct? I've notice a few folks say it runs pretty lean.

    I don't know if it's related but it also seems to take a few seconds to return to idle after I get off the throttle. I adjusted the knob that controls the idle down a turn or so. And it seemed to help. At least it doesn't get hung up at the higher throttle setting like it used to.
  19. northsouth15

    northsouth15 CA PLATED 94 YZ250 2-STROKE

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    ya...hanging idle usually means the idle screw is too high or throttle cable doesn't have enough slack

    crank that down and loosen the cable to fix that

    did anyone else notice that after replacing the OEM petcock with an aftermarket manual one, the float bowl is empty then next time you start the bike?

    if I shut the gas off after I ride, then it's still full and she starts really easily...but if I leave it on, it's empty the next time I start it and I have to crank it over with the starter a fair amount before she starts
  20. 73Mustang

    73Mustang Been here awhile

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    Hi

    I was changing the rear tire. After I put the wheel back on the swing arm but before I tighten the axle nut, I notice a 1/2-inch freeplay between the wheel and the swing arm. Meaning, the wheel can move left and right on the axle, up to 1/2-inch. Am I missing something?

    It's almost like it's missing a spacer. But I did put both right and right side spacers back on properly.

    I later tightened the axle bolt, and the swingarm bent inward so there's no more freeplay. Is it suppose to work this way? If so, it's just wierd how huge the tolerance is.