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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.
Above the headlight. Inside the giant bundle of wires and connectors.
hmm...then I'm not sure...time to break out the multimeter (free at harbor freight with coupon at times)
One wire is 12V that turns off with the key. Other is ground.
Is it normal to have unused wires with connector?
I wonder if I missed something when I repaired the instrument panel.
That's normal, the DR650 has the same unused wire pair. I think it may be for Euro hazard lights or something. Good place to tap into a switched circuit though.
hmm...I will have to check if mine has it too
I had a 1989 Ninja 600R with auxiliary leads coming off under the seat...I felt like those were 80's designed options and that newer bikes wouldn't have them
Two things come to mind:
The carb slide is vacuum operated, with vents and vacuum passages, the lines run to the air box for clean air, or some guys fit a small filter.
A good carb clean would be a good idea.
The 2nd is ignition. The weak point in wet ignitions is the high voltage side, the coil and spark plug wire.
The spark plug wire needs to not touch anything and the ends need to be sealed up so water can not get in.
20,000+ volts will jump through things when they are wet and dirty easy.
Spark plug wires should not touch anything.
You can take the gas tank off, clean the coil, then spray silicone all over it, like armorall.
The low voltage side of the coil should be imune to water and dirt, but that can get into the connectors and cause problems.
So, you should pull the seat and tank, clean the carb and check all the vents, hoses, etc, and service the coil and spark plug wire/coil.
I thought some bikes were known for problems with the vent hoses sucking up water.
I really hate vacuum carbs.
anyone ever had a starter motor just fail?
press button - no click, nothing! put it in gear, rock it back and forth...nothing
I'm not sure if it's a safety switch (ie. clutch or kickstand), the starter button, or the motor itself...time to start testing!
I own a DR200 and I have a question that I don't think was addressed in this thread. First let me explain how I use my bike. We own a Truck Camper and we bought this bike so that we could have transportation around camp, to explore around the towns we visit and to explore forest service roads and such.
90% of the time I will use it on the back roads and dirt trails around my house. 10% of the time we will use it when traveling with our truck camper.
The 10% will be ridden 2up.
So here is my question. Is there any way to stiffen the rear suspension beyond tightening the nut on the spring. I have already stiffened it as much as it will go. We are not big people but with my wife and I on it, the bike sags more than I would like.
Any ideas? An aftermarket spring? A large spacer?
Correct, the only way to fix an under sprung bike is with the proper spring for your weight. Check with Keintech or Procycle, not sure if they have suspension bits available for the 200 or not. Also check with inmate Sasquatch, he's worked suspension magic on a couple DR200s.
You're on the right track...it's almost always a safety switch when that happens. Check the kill switch.
...and IIRC has said he'd provide parts but not do the work on another one, after rigging inmate Shellie's Superbug ...something about it being a royal PITA
Hello everyone. I found a 2008 DR200 with 8000 miles, so I Pulled the trigger and I got it. Since I'm new and I know nothing about this bike.
I have two questions.
Is this 'Denso' Iridium Plug the proper one for this bike?
Also does anyone has the 'Acerbis Rally Pro X-Strong' Handguards on their bike? I read that they dont fit with the stock clutch/brake levers.
Is that true?
The Plug, Handlebars, and Handguards are the 1st accessories I want to start with.
well I don't think it's the kill switch...the bike would run via roll start
then it gave me carb issues and I had to get a truck to take me home...I'll fill up the tank and re-try the roll start; if it'll at least run that's half the battle...then I'll start checking the switches
how would you even do that? short (or break) the leads and see if the bike starts? or replace each switch one at a time?
If it's the switches themselves then you can bypass them. The clutch switch connects behind the headlight cover and can just be connected back to itself. The kickstand switch, the plug is under the seat and if I remember correctly requires a jumper to bypass. If the kill switch has grounded itself to the handlebars you can just disconnect it to check.
Thanks, pretty sure it's engine speed rather than throttle position (though I could be proved wrong yet). I did wonder if it might have been needle related but have always in the past been able to rev past that til it clears it's throat at WOT.
When this is spluttering, it doesn't sound like the engine is starved of fuel, it almost sounds like it's hit a very low RPM rev limiter and is a almost surging the revs if that makes sense? It's not an intermittent miss, it's a consistent rythym.
Going to have another go over the electrics today and if still no better, I have a spare CDI and spare coil sat here to try too.
Hopefully make some progress with it today as I need to use it til we get SWMBO's car replaced with something that actually works!
EDIT: Didn't get anywhere with CDI's as both spare ones had different number and differnt colours of wires than what's fitted, though one of the spares is the right one for that engine (gets a bit complicated as the 200 engine is in the old 125 and running the 125 loom/cdi/coil etc).
Did try another coil but it didn't work at all so was a step backwards.
If it is carb related, I almost think it's over fuelling (judging by the grayish smoke and the smell of the smoke) rather than fuel starvation and then I cn't see how that would be something that would suddenly manifest itself. Air cleaner is clean and carb has been stripped and blown through 2 or three times now since it first happened.
I'm still leaning more towards electrical and that the smoke/smell is frm it not firing and unburnt fuel getting through.
Scouring the net doesn't really lead to anything conclusive either - the symptoms seem quite common across a variety of bikes but nealry evey one I read of seems to have been sorted by a different fix.
Yes, mine does from time to time and I've yet to completely trace it though it does point to clutch switch on mine (though bypassing it didn't cure it sometimes????).
What I have found with mine, is that if it doesn't turn, try fiddling with the position of the clutch lever while holding the starter button down as sometimes it takes a bit of finding the sweet spot. So far, I've not yet had to bump it off.
I do plan to fit kick start bits to mine eventually - one route I was going to explore was using the kickstart and shaft/gear etc off of a GS/GN125 as they share many bottom end engine parts and some were kick start. Anyone tried it before to be able confirm if it works?
What is the purpose for strap across the top of the saddle?
Can I remove it?
Passenger strap. Yes.
Passenger strap? I sit on that strap. If that's a hand hold my passenger is out of luck!
Well, the new (used) rear wheel lasted until today. Another broken spoke...So I bought some motion pro tire irons, and I'm going to try to remove the good spokes from one bad wheel, move them to the other bad wheel with 2 broken spokes, then send out a few of the spokes from the rear wheel to<cite> www.buchananspokes.net</cite> to have replacements made up (should be about $3 each with the spoke/nipple combo) to fix the remaining wheel. Now I've got to figure out how to set up a jig to help true the wheel. Anyone doing a motorcycle work day in the IL area soon? .