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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.
Stay on top of ebay or go aftermarket if ones offered.
I am (hopefully) going to pick up one of these wee beasties soon, either a '96 or a 2006. I'm looking for some kind of inspection checklist to use on the bike before I buy it. Are there any particular known problem areas that I'll be able to inspect externally?
The only chronic problem I have seen mentioned here is bad vacuum petcocks causing fuel leakage, and the occasional squeaky rear suspension.
By chance does anyone have or know where to find the Tork Specs?
According to my manual, 21 ft-lb for both upper and lower triple clamp bolts. Or 2.9 Newton-meters.
It's a DR200, not a Ducati.
Just tighten them up
Not too tight, but tight enough.
Go with the 06.If they have squeaky swing arm bearings they will probably need to be replaced.Many people ignore then and they become worn and loose.The factory didn't do a good grease job on the pre models.I haven't heard any issues with the post models.
I completely disassembled the swingarm and linkage looking for the squeak. The squeak is in the shock. (in my case) I just let it squeak now.
Does the shock use bearings or bushing.I don't remember.Bushings I think.
I've never had it apart, so I don't know.
WTF indeed. Never heard of that happening before. I hope your bike was stationary when it happened or at least you were able to stop in time to prevent bad friction things from happening inside your engine.
<table class="listTable" id="oemparts_tblAssmDetails" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr class="oem_list odd"><td>
</td><td class="partNum" id="oemparts_sku0">11971-45010
</td><td>LENS, OIL LEVEL
The fiche lists it as a separate item, so I guess you can order a replacement. Set you back about 12 bucks.
If the petcock is bad it could have filled the engine full enough to pressurize.
While riding someone indicated to me that my rear lights were out. Upon inspection I realized my tail light & tail right blinker do not work at all. I have verified the bulbs are good and for some reason the left blinkers (front and rear) work fine. The front right blinker does stay on but no blink when right blinkers are initiated, I do get tick from blinker relay.
I think it may be related to the intense vibrations possibly and oddly it seems like the rear tail light may have blinked on rarely like a loose connection but under the seat all connectors appear fine except if something is missing on the blinker relay, possibly ground something??! Gounds on engine look fine from battery.
So concerning sidekick relay & blinker relay (seated just behind the carriage where the battery lays), it appears that something could be missing??
I would like to confirm if something could be missing before I consider a defective relay. I doubt the tail liht and right blinker are failing due to the bulb housing due to the front right blinker stays constantly on.. So electrical issue??
If someone has a dr200 please look into it and refer to my pics attached.
Many DR200s experience a fault in the wiring in the rear turn signal stalk. A break in the wiring results in a steady front turn signal illumination and no rear illumination. I soldered mine back together at one point. Several other owners in here have experienced the same thing.
I would look for a separate fault for the tail light failure. It's rather unlikely to be a relay.
The blinker relay flashes either side, depending on the direction selected by the signal switch. Since one side operates normally, it is unlikely that the relay is at fault.
Keep in mind that this type of relay is dependent on load. The function of these little relays is generally mechanical, based on the heating of a bi-metallic spring. If one is not aware of the expansion effect of bi-metallic strips, it might be worth while to do a Google as these are present in various circuit breakers and other devices.
As we all know, materials usually have different thermal expansion rates. Aluminum expands more than does steel, for example, which means that heating the area around a seized stud can act to help release the stud because the aluminum "hole" tends to become larger.
The signal flasher has an arm composed of two metals such as steel & copper which are welded as parallel layers. One end of the arm is fixed to the body of the flasher while the other end of the arm has a contact point in the form of a tungsten coated button. This button is positioned to place the button in firm contact with another contact button which is fixed to the relay body.
Each contact button has a lead wire, one goes to the switch side of the circuit while the other goes to the power side. When the switch is turned on, connecting the lead to the bulbs on one side of the bike, power flows through the bimetallic contact arm. Resistance in the arm causes heating of the arm and the arm begins to expand. The two metals forming the arm expand at different rates such that the copper side expands more than does the steel side. This difference in expansion rate bends the arm into an arc until the contact button is separated from the fixed contact rate which shuts off power flow.
With power off, the arm begins to cool until it finally returns to normal (straight) position and contacts the fixed button = power on. This on and off action is timed by the combination of the combination of metals, thickness & length of the metals, to the current flow (load) such that the on and off intervals are timed to the desired rate.
If one applies a greater than intended load, the flasher will flash in a modified interval in which the on time is reduced while the off interval (power off/cooling) remains essentially the same.
If one applies a smaller than intended load, the flasher may remain on for longer periods with off the same or, lacking sufficient heating, may not flash off. You can experiment with this effect by connecting various sized bulb combinations or using a variable load.
Go to a self serve auto wrecher and grab a cheap original flasher, then pull it apart and you will see the same type of construction. Connecting that one to the DR will likely see a greater on interval because the flasher will likely have been designed for a heavier load. It may refuse to flash at all unless and additional bulb is added.
This is the same problem with installing LED lights = not enough load to heat the bimetallic strip.
Since the front light on the one side operates while the rear does not, the signal switch and wiring leading from there are effective.
The problem, therefore appears to lie in the wiring after the junction point of the front & rear side of the side which is malfunctioning.
Since you have developed a problem with two lights at the rear, one likely possibility is that the ground circuit serving those two lights is common and is faulty. Try removing the lens from both lights and use a jumper wire to connect the bulb socket of each to a clean frame bolt. If that corrects the problem in either or both cases, start looking for the broken/disconnected ground wire.
Japanese bikes have used a common ground wire in the wiring harness rather than grounding each component to the chassis, for many decades but if you are more familiar with automotive systems this may not have occurred to you and will give you trouble until you discover.
Another likely is that the two wires to the tail and signal have been pinched/sheared or that the two are disconnected from plugs which you have not located.
Hope this helps. Know it is long but generally people are better off in understanding more about the system than having someone state a single phrase assertion as to the cause, based on "my grandfather rode a Harley in WW2 and he had the same thing happen when the bike was straffed by a Messerschmit so your bike must have been straffed by a Messerschmt!
This is, of course silly, because there has been not one single incident of DR200 straffing by a Messerschmit. Everyone knows that Folkers are the bane of DR200's which is why Snoopy doesn't ride a DR200.
Post back or PM if you can use more help.
Black with white usually denotes a ground wire on Suzuki motos.
I put KTM Adventure pegs onto my little DR200. They were really easy to fit with a little grinding. I think modding the pegs was easier than putting aftermarket hand grips on it.
Oh yeah it did that. I had it all cleaned out. New filter, oil and even a new spark plug. Cleaned the air filter since I was there. It was running great I turn my back to dump some oil and pop! then a big ass mess all over the side of my truck. Grrrrrr.
Anyway new part is on order so we will see what happens.
I had thoughts that the gas might have weekend the sight glass.
Ill keep ya posted.
The ground on my tail light (07) was way too tight and pulled right out of the crimped on fitting at the light bulb housing. The left turn signal now has a bad contact, stops blinking and the front stays on. I give the rear housing a smack and it works again for a while. Maybe over winter I'll get around to fixing it for real, maybe put some shorter lights on while I'm in there as my kids are finally interested in riding.